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		<title>Mud, Rock and Roots: In Conversation With Nina-Yves Cameron</title>
		<link>https://www.base-mag.com/mud-rock-and-roots-in-conversation-with-nina-yves-cameron/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Hannah]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 15 Sep 2023 08:27:50 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Interview]]></category>
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					<description><![CDATA[Beth Chalmers catches up with the Scottish downhill racer, talking progress, community and how the Highlands shaped her as a rider]]></description>
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		<p id="breadcrumbs" class="mt-5 text-black" ><span><span><a href="https://www.base-mag.com/">Home</a></span> <span class="separator inline-block align-baseline mx-1 opacity-50"></span> <span class="breadcrumb_last" aria-current="page">Interview</span></span></p>		<h1 class="dirty-heading text-4xl md:text-h1   text-black">Mud, Rock and Roots: In Conversation With Nina-Yves Cameron</h1>
		<div class="text-md md:text-lg text-center mb-4 mx-auto text-black">Beth Chalmers catches up with the Scottish downhill racer, talking progress, community and how the Highlands shaped her as a rider</div>		
		
			
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						<span class="text-orange uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1 sm:mb-2">Published</span>
						<span class="block text-black">Sep 15, 2023</span>
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							<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/beth-chalmers/" class="block text-normal text-black">Beth Chalmers</a>
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							<span class="text-orange uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1 sm:mb-2">Photographer</span>
							<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/beth-chalmers/" class="block text-normal text-black">Beth Chalmers</a>
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					<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/beth-chalmers/" class="h-12 w-12 md:h-20 md:w-20 inline-block bg-grey-light overflow-hidden rounded-full text-center"><img fetchpriority="high" decoding="async" width="300" height="200" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/BC-headshot-300x200.jpg" class="object-cover object-center h-full w-full wp-post-image" alt="" srcset="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/BC-headshot-300x200.jpg 300w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/BC-headshot-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/BC-headshot-768x512.jpg 768w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/BC-headshot-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/BC-headshot-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/BC-headshot-1248x832.jpg 1248w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/BC-headshot-1800x1200.jpg 1800w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/BC-headshot-700x467.jpg 700w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/BC-headshot-250x167.jpg 250w" sizes="(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /></a>					<div class="sm:pl-5 mx-auto sm:mx-0 text-center sm:text-left max-w-lg">
						<span class="text-black uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1">Beth Chalmers</span>
						<span class="block text-sm text-black">Beth Chalmers is a photographer and videographer based in Oban, Scotland. She is happiest when on a bike, rock face or in a bog.</span>					</div>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p style="text-align: center;"><em><a href="https://www.instagram.com/ninacameronn/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Nina Yves-Cameron</a> is a downhill racer from Fort William, Scotland. At 18 years-old, she has a number of UK podiums to her name and has already competed in the British Cycling Dirt Crit Races, the Highland Hardline series, Scottish and UK National downhill series, as well as well as making her debut in a number of rounds at the <a href="https://ucimtbworldseries.com/athletes/59779" target="_blank" rel="noopener">UCI World Series</a> last year. Earlier this year, Nina starred alongside fellow downhill rider Katy Curd in <a href="https://youtu.be/SIYtxIni4gs?si=UgfgSiV2w-UHHPvi" target="_blank" rel="noopener">a TV ad</a> for highstreet bank Lloyds, riding alongside the iconic black horses that the brand is synonymous with.</em></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>During this year&#8217;s UCI Downhill World Championships, <a href="http://www.bethchalmers.com/about" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Beth Chalmers</a> caught up with Nina to chat about the place where she learned to ride, how growing up in the Highlands has shaped her as a rider, and her final year of racing as a Junior before moving into Elites.</em></p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>Where did it all begin for you with bikes?</strong></p>
<p>I started biking in my home town, <a href="https://visitfortwilliam.co.uk/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Fort William</a>, in my back garden on a wee balance bike that my parents gave me at the age of three.</p>
<p>When I was around the age of six, I joined an after-school bike club run by parents from my primary school. Then a year or so later I joined the local bike club, the West Highland Wheelers, and started attending the kids club on a Saturday morning. From there, I gradually gained more confidence and skill. With thanks to some local legends who coached at the club, Steve Bradley and Alastair Maclennan, I was encouraged to start racing.</p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>How do you think learning to ride in Lochaber has shaped you as a mountain biker?</strong></p>
<p>Learning to ride In Lochaber, I think made me love biking the way I do now as there are so many places to ride a trail and lots of people to go biking with. Having the world cup at Nevis Range was really inspiring for me too.</p>
<p><strong>How has this year’s race season been for you so far?</strong></p>
<p>The season has been going alright for me so far! I’ve had a couple podiums already and some alright times, so I am very keen to push myself harder at the next races to come.</p>
<p><strong>Has racing changed your attitude towards riding? Are you still managing to get out for personal days?</strong></p>
<p>I’d say racing has changed my attitude to riding for the better as I&#8217;m always looking to improve my riding and I&#8217;m much more willing to try new things. It’s made me look more closely at lines and see the different ways to ride a trail. It helps me to push to be the best I can.</p>
<p>But beyond riding, racing has ultimately helped me realise that it’s most important to enjoy riding, be it an easy spin along a fire road or a mega session on the downhill track.</p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><blockquote><p>the trails and the bikes have evolved and with it the love for riding has developed to where we are today</p></blockquote>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>You’ve been riding internationally recently. Can you tell us about what you’ve been up to and how that differs from riding at home?</strong></p>
<p>Riding away in Europe is a whole lot different to riding in Scotland. For one, there are no midges out there! Secondly, the tracks are insane to ride. The jumps are so much bigger than we have in Lochaber and the tracks are very fast and rough. I really enjoy it &#8211; as well as the dry and warm weather!</p>
<p>I’m not long back from a week over at the Pierron Bike Park where I was doing suspension testing with SR Suntour suspension. The tracks there were so much fun and I really felt I improved my riding during that week &#8211; riding a different style of track compared to the tracks here.</p>
<p><strong>Why do you think Lochaber is such a hub for bikes and why does it breed such good riders?</strong></p>
<p>I think Lochaber is such a hub for mountain biking because of the amazing scenery and the rocky, gnarly tracks covered in slippy roots and mud. There are so many different styles of riding you can do here that just works for so many people. We have a great biking community. People have been mountain biking in Lochaber since the 80’s &#8211; the trails and the bikes have evolved and with it the love for riding has developed to where we are today. Our trails give lots of challenges and it&#8217;s so much fun riding with friends &#8211; it inevitably ends up with us all pushing each other to be the best we can. We also have a great club, I know I wouldn’t be where I am today without the support of them.</p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>How have you been preparing for this year’s race season?</strong></p>
<p>Lots of bike time over the off-season. I have been doing lots of physical training in the gym and our local Cross Fit gym with my trainer Rico Martin. I have also done a lot of mental preparation for a more positive mindset towards racing with Ciaran King at Peakin High Performance which has helped so much with my pre-race nerves and doubts and learning how to handle them positively.</p>
<p><strong>You must have ridden the downhill track at Nevis Range so many times. Can you remember how it felt to do it for the first time?</strong></p>
<p>Beyond excited and very scared on my little green <a href="https://www.specialized.com/gb/en/stumpjumper?utm_source=google&amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;utm_campaign=UK_SpecializedBikes_ROI&amp;utm_id=1623384208&amp;utm_content=143153426551&amp;utm_term=specialized%20stumpjumper&amp;gclid=CjwKCAjwgZCoBhBnEiwAz35RwiCkOcowmnTuZBJyes8JHzDgHTJi41KObnWW6T2LASEkqpl0Q3f-YBoCeLIQAvD_BwE" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Specialized Stumpjumper</a>. Still can’t believe I rode it on that bike…</p>
<p><strong>What’s the community like with the other racers? Do you have a laugh or is it strictly business?</strong></p>
<p>The downhill community is awesome. Races are always good fun. Yes, there is the serious bit where you get in the zone during the warm-up and focus on the run, but we share thoughts, help with lines, support each other, and always have a bit of a laugh. This has been the same wherever I’ve ridden or raced.</p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>It feels like a really exciting time for women in mountain biking. Is there anything that really encouraged you to race?</strong></p>
<p>I think one of my first races was a Dirt Crit up near Inverness. I really enjoyed it and met quite a few others that I still ride with and race against today. I love riding my bike and with the encouragement of my club, seemed to be drawn to racing more and more.</p>
<p>Having watched all the great elite riders over the years racing at the World Cup in Fort William, I set myself the goal of one day racing in the World Cup, and here I am starting my second season racing at World Cups.</p>
<p><strong>What advice would you give someone who wanted to start riding for the first time?</strong></p>
<p>Get involved with your local club, talk to the people at the local bike shop and keep an eye out for races in your area. We were really lucky to have grown up with the Highland Hardline Series which really helped to get me ready for the Scottish and British races and then onto the World Cups. You’ll see a few others at the World Cup who have ridden these events including Aimi Kenyon and Douglas Goodwill.</p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>It’s your last season racing as a junior. How are you feeling about racing Elites next year? What will change?</strong></p>
<p>This season I’m feeling excited and nervous because I&#8217;d like to do well. Next year will be a huge step up into a much harder and very talented field of elite women. I am planning on training and riding a whole lot more during the next off-season to try and be able to race as best I can at elite level next year.</p>
<p><strong>Tell us about your laps of the race track over the World Champs weekend? How have you found the track?</strong></p>
<p>The track was so much fun! I really enjoyed how fast it now is. It’s a lot easier in terms of technical sections but the jumps are a lot bigger compared to what they were.</p>
<p><strong>What&#8217;s the atmosphere like at Nevis Range? Does race day on home turf have a different feel? </strong></p>
<p>Racing world champs literally on my doorstep is amazing and having friends and family there watching me is so nice. The atmosphere is buzzing and makes it all feel a bit surreal compared to other world cups I’ve raced.</p>
<p><strong>What’s next for you?</strong></p>
<p>I have three more world cups in Europe and a national race in the UK, but as my last World Champs as a junior, I am celebrating with family and friends on my two weeks off until I head out to Europe again!</p>
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					Jan 03, 2023</p>
				<h3 class="standard-heading mb-1 "><a href="https://www.base-mag.com/bikes-for-protest-not-a-heros-journey/" class="text-black hover:text-grey">Bikes For Protest: Not a Hero&#8217;s Journey</a></h3>
				<p class="">An exploration of bikes as a tool for protest in light of the climate crisis</p>
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		<title>A Weekend Of Community And Exploration</title>
		<link>https://www.base-mag.com/a-weekend-of-community-and-exploration/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Hannah]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 28 Jun 2023 13:47:34 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Interview]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.base-mag.com/?p=9010</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[To celebrate their 90th year, outdoor retailers Ellis Brigham are taking things outside]]></description>
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		<p id="breadcrumbs" class="mt-5 text-black" ><span><span><a href="https://www.base-mag.com/">Home</a></span> <span class="separator inline-block align-baseline mx-1 opacity-50"></span> <span class="breadcrumb_last" aria-current="page">Interview</span></span></p>		<h1 class="dirty-heading text-4xl md:text-h1   text-black">A Weekend Of Community And Exploration</h1>
		<div class="text-md md:text-lg text-center mb-4 mx-auto text-black">To celebrate their 90th year, outdoor retailers Ellis Brigham are taking things outside</div>		
		
			
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						<span class="text-orange uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1 sm:mb-2">Published</span>
						<span class="block text-black">Jun 28, 2023</span>
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						<span class="block text-sm text-black">BASE writers and editors who live and breathe adventure every day. We love adventure storytelling as much as we love adventure itself.</span>					</div>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">For most outdoor folk, Ellis Brigham is something of a household name. At the very least, most of us will have bought a much-loved bit of kit, an outdoor wardrobe essential or a trusty guidebook from one of their shops or online. The company has a <a href="https://www.ellis-brigham.com/our-heritage" target="_blank" rel="noopener">long-standing history</a> of serving the outdoor community, and this year, they&#8217;re celebrating 90 years of being a key part of it with their inaugural <a href="https://www.ellis-brigham.com/exploreweekend?promo_name=Homepage&amp;promo_creative=explore-weekend&amp;promo_id=1&amp;promo_position=1-1" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Explore Weekend event</a>. </span></i></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">The event is set to be a jam-packed celebration of all things outdoors, with activities including hiking, running, climbing and swimming as well as an inspiring line-up of speakers and a family-friendly, festival vibe. But with so much to celebrate, we wanted to dig a bit deeper, to find out how it all began, where it&#8217;s all going, and how exactly you go about planning a birthday party for an outdoor store that&#8217;s been around since 1933? </span></i></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">We caught up with marketing director Mark Brigham to find out.</span></i></p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><b>Can you give us a little bit of an insight into your position within Ellis Brigham, and why it is that you do what you do?</b></p>
<p>Well, it’s always been a family business &#8211; I started out working on the shop floor and driving vans, and now have the position of Marketing Director which I really love as every day is different.  Everyone at Ellis Brigham is really friendly and supportive and we are all united by a shared interest in the outdoors.</p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">The company was established in 1933 by my grandfather, who was an avid outdoor fan really. He was mainly into bikes but was also quite an entrepreneur. He saw an opportunity to make things a lot better for people who were in the outdoors, so he set up the business. His background was in footwear, repairing and selling shoes, and the company grew from there, from really quite humble roots in North Manchester.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">The aim has always been to make people&#8217;s outdoor experiences better by giving the best advice and stocking the best gear for adventure. That was the ethos back in the 30s and 40s and it still holds true today. So, my role is to facilitate that, to assist people in finding the right gear by finding their way to us.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"> </span></p>
<p><b>During the time that you&#8217;ve been working within the industry, what sort of changes have you seen?</b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Being a family member, I&#8217;ve been around the business all of my life, but I&#8217;ve worked here for 20 years now.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">We&#8217;ve always put an emphasis on customer service and prioritised that element. We still believe that our physical stores are a really important part of what we do, connecting with the staff in stores who have their own personal experiences of being outdoors is a really important part of it. Going back 20 years, online wasn&#8217;t anywhere near as big as it is now, so I think one of the main things that has changed has been trying to make that experience move into online and across different platforms &#8211; it’s something I think a lot of retailers are still struggling to get right. We’ve not quite cracked that nut yet, but we&#8217;re working towards it.</span></p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><b>So it&#8217;s safe to say you&#8217;ve been in the business a while then! What sort of changes have you seen in the demographic of customers you get in your stores over the years?</b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Well, if you&#8217;d asked me that question five years ago, I would have said, </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">it&#8217;s not massively changed</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;">. But I think in the last five years, particularly with COVID happening, we&#8217;ve seen a lot more young people come into the community, which is a great thing. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">I think the perception of hiking in years gone by has been (wrongly) that it&#8217;s something for older people, but we now see a real broad age range embracing it as a hobby and form of exercise and a way to escape and regain that sense of wellbeing. </span><span style="font-weight: 400;">It’s bringing in a younger consumer, and I think that&#8217;s being fuelled by a lot of younger brands like <a href="https://www.base-mag.com/review-adidas-terrex-wmn-mid-rain-rdy-hiking-shoes/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">adidas TERREX</a> for example. There’s certainly more youth coming into the outdoors, which is great because they’re bringing in a new and exciting energy.</span></p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><b>So &#8211; The Explore Weekend. Why did you decide on a festival-type event to mark Ellis Brigham’s 90th year?</b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Well, the original idea for an event came up probably about 15 years ago! At the time, I sort-of dismissed it, I was like, </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">oh, we&#8217;re not event organisers, we&#8217;re retailers</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;">. We do hold a lot of events in store, we’ve had a lot of speakers over the years, and we try and inspire people beyond just selling gear. I&#8217;ve always been quite passionate about doing more of that kind of stuff in the stores, but this was a whole new idea of taking it – literally – outdoors!</span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">I thought, well, if you&#8217;re going to celebrate a birthday, you&#8217;re going to have some kind of party, aren&#8217;t you? The only place to really do it properly would be in the outdoors for us, doing what we all love, and that&#8217;s coming together and hiking and climbing, and facilitating other people doing it too. We found a great location in North Wales that will allow people to enjoy it all in the company of staff and family and friends.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Hopefully people will come along, have a great time, and they&#8217;ll learn something off the back of it, because that&#8217;s an important side of it as well. We want to help people develop their confidence in the outdoors. We’ve got a great lineup of speakers on Friday and Saturday night, and if the weather holds – or even if it doesn&#8217;t – I think it&#8217;ll be a really special weekend.</span></p>
<blockquote><p>Hopefully people will come along, have a great time, and they’ll learn something off the back of it, because that’s an important side of it as well.</p></blockquote>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><b>I get the impression from what I&#8217;ve read about the event that there&#8217;s a real community focus to it. Was that an important part of the event planning, that community building aspect?</b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Absolutely. We were looking for a way we could bring everyone together under one roof, so to speak, to do everything that we&#8217;ve enjoyed doing over our lifetimes. We&#8217;re encouraging families to come and we&#8217;ve got stuff going on for kids as well. We want it to be inclusive, it&#8217;s not about how quickly you can climb this mountain or how fast you can run, it&#8217;s all about having fun in the outdoors as a community.</span></p>
<p><b>And presumably it&#8217;s an opportunity for folk who might not necessarily have the confidence to go it alone, to come along and try something new in good company?</b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Oh yes, for sure. There are free guided hikes and runs, and I think people can come and feel confident that they can ask questions and join in at whatever level. I’d love it if in two year’s time someone suddenly sends me a message saying, </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">I went to your Explore Weekend, and that was the start of my journey into the outdoors</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;">.</span></p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><b>What’s the plan for Ellis Brigham for the next 10 years?</b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Well, we’re always considering opening new shops to better serve customers in certain areas &#8211; we still see shops as very much part of who we are. We’ll continue to improve the services we offer, and to invest in our staff; one of the key things about Ellis Brigham is we really invest in our staff. We get them out in the hills to try out the product, that’s a real central part of who we are. Our aim is to inspire and encourage more people outside, we’ve been doing it for 90 years and it never gets old!</span></p>
<p><b>Finally, how are you going to top the Explore Weekend for your 100th year?</b><span style="font-weight: 400;"> </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Phew, it’s a big, big job, organising an event &#8211; I&#8217;ve got massive respect for anyone who organises any kind of event… The way I feel at the moment, I think the 100th year might just be sitting around and eating cake!</span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">But really, if the Explore Weekend is a real success, there&#8217;s no reason why we can&#8217;t repeat it annually and build it into into a bigger event. At the moment, all eyes are on this event in September and on making it the best we can. We&#8217;ll see where we go from there!</span></p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><blockquote><p><span style="font-weight: 400;">The way I feel at the moment, I think the 100th year might just be sitting around and eating cake!</span></p></blockquote>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p style="text-align: center;"><em>Tickets for the Explore Weekend are on sale now. The family-friendly, inclusive event takes place over the weekend of the 15th-17th September 2023 in Bala, North Wales, and there are multiple options for camping available. Check out the <a href="https://www.ellis-brigham.com/exploreweekend?promo_name=Homepage&amp;promo_creative=explore-weekend&amp;promo_id=1&amp;promo_position=1-1" target="_blank" rel="noopener">event page on the Ellis Brigham website</a> for more information and to bag your spot! </em></p>
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		<title>Chasing The 14: The Kristin Harila Interview</title>
		<link>https://www.base-mag.com/chasing-the-14-the-kristin-harila-interview/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Hannah]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 13 Jun 2023 14:55:27 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Interview]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.base-mag.com/?p=8919</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[In conversation with record-breaking Norwegian mountaineer and Osprey ambassador, Kristin Harila]]></description>
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		<p id="breadcrumbs" class="mt-5 text-black" ><span><span><a href="https://www.base-mag.com/">Home</a></span> <span class="separator inline-block align-baseline mx-1 opacity-50"></span> <span class="breadcrumb_last" aria-current="page">Interview</span></span></p>		<h1 class="dirty-heading text-4xl md:text-h1   text-black">Chasing The 14: The Kristin Harila Interview</h1>
		<div class="text-md md:text-lg text-center mb-4 mx-auto text-black">In conversation with record-breaking Norwegian mountaineer and Osprey ambassador, Kristin Harila</div>					<div class="text-center" >
				<p class="text-black uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-foot-text block mb-1 opacity-75">In partnership with</p>
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							<span class="block text-black">8 mins</span>
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						<span class="text-orange uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1 sm:mb-2">Published</span>
						<span class="block text-black">Jun 13, 2023</span>
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							<span class="text-orange uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1 sm:mb-2">Author</span>
							<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/hannah-mitchell/" class="block text-normal text-black">Hannah Mitchell</a>
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					<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/hannah-mitchell/" class="h-12 w-12 md:h-20 md:w-20 inline-block bg-grey-light overflow-hidden rounded-full text-center"><img decoding="async" width="300" height="300" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n-300x300.jpg" class="object-cover object-center h-full w-full wp-post-image" alt="" srcset="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n-300x300.jpg 300w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n-150x150.jpg 150w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n-768x769.jpg 768w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n-600x600.jpg 600w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n-700x701.jpg 700w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n-250x250.jpg 250w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n.jpg 959w" sizes="(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /></a>					<div class="sm:pl-5 mx-auto sm:mx-0 text-center sm:text-left max-w-lg">
						<span class="text-black uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1">Hannah Mitchell</span>
						<span class="block text-sm text-black">BASE Digital Writer Hannah is a Lake District-based journalist and all-round outdoor lass with a particular fondness for rock faces.</span>					</div>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p style="text-align: center;"><em>With her sights firmly set on the 14 Peaks speed title, Kristin Harila embarked on her latest attempt on the world&#8217;s highest summits as part of her She Moves Mountains project earlier this year. </em></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Originally from issue 10 of <a href="https://www.base-mag.com/product/base-annual-magazine-subscription/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">BASE magazine</a>, I chatted to Kristin just days before she headed to the Himalayas, talking women in high altitude mountaineering, role models, and the importance of reliable kit when taking on the world&#8217;s most extreme conditions. </em></p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p style="text-align: left;">A former professional skier from Norway, <a href="https://www.ospreyeurope.com/gb_en/athletes/kristin-harila/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Osprey ambassador Kristin Harila</a> climbed her first ‘8,000-er’ at 35. The ascent served as something of a revelation as she unintentionally set a record for the fastest traverse of Everest-Lhotse by a woman. Just 12 months later, she was back on the same mountains, making headlines as she broke multiple records, this time in hot pursuit of <a href="https://www.base-mag.com/the-nims-purja-14-peaks-interview/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Nirmal ‘Nims’ Purja</a>’s six-month 14 Peaks speed title.</p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p>Surpassing Purja’s time <a href="https://www.base-mag.com/record-breaking-ascents-lhotse-everest/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">early in the challenge</a>, she ascended the first six peaks in 29 days, two days quicker than Nims’ 31. Despite such an impressive start, her endeavour was hampered by red tape. When their permit applications to enter Tibet were refused by the Chinese government, Kristin and her team were forced to attempt the ascent of their 13th summit, <a href="https://www.britannica.com/place/Cho-Oyu" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Cho Oyu</a>, from the lesser-frequented and arguably more dangerous Nepalese side. After 10 anxious days in basecamp, conceding that the treacherous conditions posed too great a threat to the lives of the team, the decision was made to abandon the challenge. The team fell short of just two summits, Cho Oyu and <a href="https://www.britannica.com/place/Xixabangma" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Shishapangma</a>.</p>
<p>Kristin’s determination to take on the 14 Peaks whilst still a relative newcomer to the mountaineering world saw her selling her home in Norway in order to fund her first attempt. Since then, she has unsurprisingly received international media attention and widespread praise, not only for her ambitious nature and staggering speed records, but her pragmatic approach and determination to address the gender imbalance in high-altitude mountaineering for the next generation of women.</p>
<p>I spoke to Kristin upon her return to Norway as she enjoyed some family time and prepared for her next attempt on the 14 Peaks challenge, beginning this time from where she was previously forced to give up. Shortly after we spoke, Kristin summited Shishapangma on the 26th of April 2023. Just one week later, she was standing on the top of Cho Oyu.</p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><b>You’ve just returned home after calling time on your 14 Peaks attempt. How do you deal with that feeling of being ‘back to reality’, after you’ve spent so long on such an intensive challenge?</b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Well, I have like six or seven weeks at home this time. I’ve been here since we came back from Cho Oyu and then I leave again in ten days. Before I used to feel quite sad, and I really just wanted to go back. But now every break I have is so busy, without much sleep and a lot of travelling. It&#8217;s actually very hectic to be home, so I&#8217;m looking forward to going back to the mountains so I can get some rest!</span></p>
<p><b>When you&#8217;ve had to retire from something that you&#8217;ve been so invested in for so long – particularly when it&#8217;s for reasons out of your control – how do you begin to process and deal with those feelings?</b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Well, I didn&#8217;t really feel so much because I decided right away to try again. Since then there’s been a lot of work to do and I had lots to focus on like trying to get the permits and the sponsorship and everything sorted out. So I’ve really just been focusing on the future and working on the next step.</span></p>
<p><b>And you&#8217;re going straight back to try for the record again?</b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Yes, that&#8217;s the plan. Hopefully we will start with Shishapangma and Cho Oyu this time, but we still don&#8217;t have the permit. So first we have to get that of course, but either way we need to leave now to start to acclimatise so we will be ready to go.</span></p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><blockquote><p>We need role models to show younger girls that it is possible for them to do it too.</p></blockquote>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><blockquote><p>On Everest in 2021, we had five out of five women in the group that summited, and only six of 14 men did the same.</p></blockquote>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><b>You&#8217;re very transparent on your social media, telling both sides of the story, not just the successes. For example, you recently calculated your carbon footprint on the project and shared that with your followers. Why is that honesty and accountability so important to you? </b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">I just like to be open about things. I think it&#8217;s good to talk about things that are not so easy to talk about, especially with climate change. Everyone knows that in climbing this or that mountain you have to fly long distances and most of the time with a project like this, you can’t do it without a helicopter. I think it&#8217;s better to actually talk about that, to say like, ‘</span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">what can we change in the future?’</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> Because as long as the mountain is there, people will climb. We just have to see if it is possible to climb the mountain in another way, a better way.</span></p>
<p><b>And if you&#8217;re talking about things like your carbon footprint and acknowledging that, hopefully it’s going to encourage others to think a little bit more about it themselves.</b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Yeah, and for myself when I started to look at this calculation, I was thinking, ‘</span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">ok, these long distance flights have a lot of impact</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;">, </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">maybe I can cut one of them’</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;">. And I realised that yeah, I actually can. So if we are honest with ourselves and each other we can start to make changes.</span></p>
<p><b>We sometimes see images – I think Everest is the one that people will think of immediately – where there are <a href="https://education.nationalgeographic.org/resource/trash-and-overcrowding-top-world/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">huge quantities of rubbish</a> left behind from the commercial camps, and it&#8217;s absolutely mind-blowing that there can be so much in such a seemingly inaccessible place. Do you think mountaineers such as yourself have a responsibility to educate people who aspire to climb these mountains about how they can look after them?</b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Yeah, for sure. I think we should talk about that too. I actually have a plan to do something with the trash on the mountains after I go for this project again. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">I feel like most of the mountains are very clean though, it&#8217;s mainly a problem on Everest and K2 where there are more people. If we are going to clean up, we need to have a fresh start because as long as there is trash there, people will throw more. We need a big clean-up, but we also need regulations. I think we need to involve governments and we need to educate, to help people understand. We have a way to go but it is possible to change.</span></p>
<p><b>Do you think there needs to be even greater control over the numbers that are summiting Everest and K2, or are there other solutions?</b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">We know how many people are climbing because we know how many permits are issued and we know the statistics of how many made it to the summits too, so I think we need more regulation for the trash mostly. It&#8217;s possible to do that by adding on a tax or seeing how much people are carrying down, we could have some points to check what people actually bring off the mountain. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">We know that things happen in the mountains like people get sick, people die or they&#8217;ve been in an accident and actually can’t take their trash down. And many people will think </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">‘oh that&#8217;s not my trash’</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;">. So when we can take trash down we should, and everyone needs to agree to do the same, to help each other when those things happen.</span></p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><b>The gender imbalance in high altitude mountaineering is still pretty big, and of course there are complex cultural and historical factors which are a large part of that. How do we go about closing the gap?</b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">I think history is definitely a part of it. It&#8217;s always been about men on these expeditions. The first ascents are by men, and the films and the books have been about men. But we are seeing more and more women out there. We’re seeing more and more mothers also being out in the big mountains, and that&#8217;s also nice because it has been seen as acceptable for fathers to go in the past, but not for mothers.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">I think if you&#8217;re going to change it, there&#8217;s two important things. One is that we need role models to show younger people, younger girls, that it is possible for them to do it too. And I think we need to make sure that women get equal opportunities when it comes to sponsorship.</span></p>
<p><b>Do you think it&#8217;s harder for women to get sponsorship? </b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Yeah, for sure. For some reason some companies feel that we have a lower value. I’m not sure why, it’s probably historical. In Norway for example, we say that we are equal, but the biggest sports brands support mostly men. We need to start by giving female athletes the same amount of funding that we give the men. </span></p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><b>I personally believe that women in the outdoors and mountain sports have advantages in our differences from men, in the way that we operate. What advantages do you think women have over men when it comes to high altitude mountaineering?</b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">It’s funny you know, when we were on Everest in 2021, we had five out of five women in the group that summited, and only six of 14 men did the same. All the women came well prepared, both physically and mentally, and the men came like, </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">‘oh, I can do this’</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;">.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;"> </span><span style="font-weight: 400;">I think we are just as strong as they are, and that was kind-of why I started the project. I think it doesn&#8217;t always help that we say that we are just as strong, I think if we can show it, it&#8217;s much better. I knew Nims had done it in 2019, and I was thinking the best way to change something is to do something that we can easily compare. People have to see themselves represented to feel that they have a place, and that they are equally capable.</span></p>
<p><strong>And in terms of kit, you favour the women’s-specific fit </strong><strong><a href="https://www.ospreyeurope.com/shop/gb_en/ariel-pro-65-2019" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Osprey Ariel Pro 65</a> for your expeditions. How important </strong><strong>is a properly fitting pack when it comes to high altitude </strong><strong>mountaineering?</strong></p>
<p>I have been using Osprey products for many, many years. For me, they are the best. I need to be able to trust and rely on the kit I take with me to the mountains. The pack is so important, it’s almost like one of the most important products that we have, along with the shoes and down suit and maybe the helmet! We wear it a lot and we are going to carry heavy stuff, so it’s important that it is comfortable.</p>
<p><strong>Who inspires you inside and outside the world of </strong><strong>mountaineering and why?</strong></p>
<p>Oh, so many in so many different ways. In mountaineering, Melissa Arnot Reid has been really inspiring for me and for many other women and girls. It’s amazing what she’s done. And also other athletes from other sports like Emily Forsberg and Becks Ferry and if I look a little bit into the history of Norway, we have <a href="https://www.instagram.com/skogcecilie/?hl=en" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Cecilie Skog</a> – she climbed Everest in 2002.</p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p style="text-align: center;"><em>To get your hands on a copy of BASE magazine in print, <a href="https://www.base-mag.com/product/base-annual-magazine-subscription/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">subscribe here</a>. It&#8217;s FREE, you just pay the postage!</em></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>For more inspiring insight from women in adventure, check out <a href="https://www.base-mag.com/the-meaning-of-clean-climbing-with-emma-twyford/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">this interview with rock and ice royalty, Ines Papert.</a></em></p>
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		<title>Rock And Ice Royalty: In Conversation With Ines Papert</title>
		<link>https://www.base-mag.com/rock-and-ice-royalty-in-conversation-with-ines-papert/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Hannah]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 17 Feb 2023 21:46:48 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Interview]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.base-mag.com/?p=7510</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[We chat to trailblazing alpinist and champion ice climber Ines about her inspirational career, climbing ethics, motherhood, and learning from our mistakes]]></description>
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		<p id="breadcrumbs" class="mt-5 text-black" ><span><span><a href="https://www.base-mag.com/">Home</a></span> <span class="separator inline-block align-baseline mx-1 opacity-50"></span> <span class="breadcrumb_last" aria-current="page">Interview</span></span></p>		<h1 class="dirty-heading text-4xl md:text-h1   text-black">Rock And Ice Royalty: In Conversation With Ines Papert</h1>
		<div class="text-md md:text-lg text-center mb-4 mx-auto text-black">We chat to trailblazing alpinist and champion ice climber Ines about her inspirational career, climbing ethics, motherhood, and learning from our mistakes</div>		
		
			
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						<span class="text-orange uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1 sm:mb-2">Published</span>
						<span class="block text-black">Feb 17, 2023</span>
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							<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/hannah-mitchell/" class="block text-normal text-black">Hannah Mitchell</a>
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					<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/hannah-mitchell/" class="h-12 w-12 md:h-20 md:w-20 inline-block bg-grey-light overflow-hidden rounded-full text-center"><img decoding="async" width="300" height="300" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n-300x300.jpg" class="object-cover object-center h-full w-full wp-post-image" alt="" srcset="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n-300x300.jpg 300w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n-150x150.jpg 150w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n-768x769.jpg 768w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n-600x600.jpg 600w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n-700x701.jpg 700w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n-250x250.jpg 250w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n.jpg 959w" sizes="(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /></a>					<div class="sm:pl-5 mx-auto sm:mx-0 text-center sm:text-left max-w-lg">
						<span class="text-black uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1">Hannah Mitchell</span>
						<span class="block text-sm text-black">BASE Digital Writer Hannah is a Lake District-based journalist and all-round outdoor lass with a particular fondness for rock faces.</span>					</div>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p>Ice and mixed climbing are having a moment right now. Participation in these activities and the media’s appetite for arguably the gnarliest forms of climbing is at an all-time high. Arguably one of the most preeminent alpinists of our time, champion ice climber <a href="https://arcteryx.com/us/en/athletes/ines-papert" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Ines Papert</a> knows a few things about climbing the cold stuff.</p>
<p>Born in Germany, Ines discovered her love for the mountains after moving to Bavaria at 19. Three years later, Ines climbed <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watzmann">Watzmann</a>, her first significant peak and the third highest mountain in Germany. Ten years after that, she won the Ice Climbing World Cup, and has won it three more times since then. With a <a href="https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/likhu-chuli-i-first-ascent-by-ines-papert-in-nepal.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener">first ascent of Likhu Chuli</a> (6719m) in Nepal to her name, becoming the first woman to climb the mixed climbing grade M13, and both repeating and opening some of the most difficult routes in the world, including the <a href="https://ines-papert.com/stories/the-hurting" target="_blank" rel="noopener">first female ascent of <em>The Hurting</em> XI 11</a>, one of Scotland&#8217;s most testing winter climbs.</p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p>Put simply, ice climbing is the act of ascending frozen water formations and features, but when you get into the specifics, it’s far more complicated and nuanced. Think tackling terrain including frozen-over rock faces, icefalls and free-hanging, vertical ice stalactites using axes and front-point crampons. There are weather systems to consider, avalanche risk, crevasses, freeze and thaw cycles and of course, the fact that natural ice is becoming scarcer and indeed more fragile as the world grows warmer.</p>
<p>Then there’s the equipment needed for ice climbing; ice screws are placed to protect the climber from a fall, but more typical climbing gear such as hexes and wires might also be required for mixed routes that cover rock and frozen turf too. Ice and mixed climbing have separate grade systems to get your head around, oh, and then there’s <a href="https://www.base-mag.com/new-british-dry-tooling-record-set-by-emma-powell/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">dry-tooling</a>.</p>
<p>So, how has ice climbing changed since Ines&#8217; career first began on the newly-formed competition circuit, 20 years ago? I caught up with this rock, ice and mixed climbing master on a rare rest day, whilst she and climbing partner Sarah Hueniken lay in wait for a weather window to progress on their latest project, opening up a new line at Helmcken Falls, Canada.</p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>First of all, since the beginning of your climbing career, has climbing changed and how?</strong></p>
<p>Yes of course, a lot. I&#8217;m really, really grateful that I was part of the earlier generations in a fresh, new kind of mixed climbing that we experienced back in the day. With the new shape of the tools, and when ice climbing became more than just a training sport for alpine missions and people started creating goals on steep ice and mixed lines around the late 1990s or early 2000s. We still had so much to explore, we still had lots of new routes to claim, which gets less and less since there&#8217;s more and more people doing it, which is great. But it felt like everything was kind-of fresh and new then.</p>
<p>And nowadays there is that kind-of social media mentality, it&#8217;s easy for young people to get the feeling that they are in the wrong place at the wrong time. The fear of missing out is something I can see in my son&#8217;s generation a lot. I encourage younger people sometimes to just switch off from social media for some time and to focus on what they&#8217;re doing. On one hand, you can crazy good information on social media, but you also can easily get lost. I get the feeling: <em>Oh, what am I doing here? I am at the wrong place. It&#8217;s too warm here. I should be somewhere else right now because the conditions are good.</em> And having patience, waiting for right conditions is a part of climbing.</p>
<p><strong>I guess partly thanks to its presence on social media, climbing in all its disciplines is more</strong> <strong>popular than ever these days. How do you feel about that?</strong></p>
<p>I&#8217;m really happy that climbing became so popular in the past 20 years and that people love to explore the mountains, not just gyms. Inspiring people is a big part of my career and what I&#8217;m doing, I really like to inspire people and I enjoy seeing more and more people out there, even though I&#8217;m more the person that would prefer to go to places where it&#8217;s less crowded! There&#8217;s so much space in our environment that there&#8217;s enough for everyone.</p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><b data-stringify-type="bold">It&#8217;s not unusual to hear stories of people who don’t understand the ethics of climbing maybe doing the wrong thing or not respecting the rules of that area. How do we go about protecting those spaces when it comes to lots of new people coming into the sport?</b></p>
<p>I think the more we encourage people to not just go climbing but also to respect the ethics of certain areas, the better. I think that&#8217;s part of the culture that keeps climbing so exciting for the next generation, if we really stick to the rules.</p>
<p>And being honest about what we are doing and the questions we need to ask first. I&#8217;m not saying I&#8217;m always climbing on trad gear, I put bolts and I did many new routes on the planet, but I always respected that part of the world. <em>What is that mountain? Or that mountain range? What has this been in the past? What have other people done in that range?</em></p>
<p>For example, in Norway or in Scotland, of course I wouldn&#8217;t place a bolt because I respect the local ethics. But also, I&#8217;m open-minded. Coming here to Canada for example, we have been bolting a new line up that Helmcken cave, because people have been bolting routes there before and that is the only way to climb it.</p>
<p>I really think the more we make new climbers that come into the sport aware of those ethics and those rules, the longer the next generations will also find their adventure &#8211; you might just have to go further away from the road.</p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><blockquote><p>the more we make new climbers that come into the sport aware of those ethics and those rules, the longer the next generations will also find their adventure</p></blockquote>
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			<p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">Mixed climbing involves both rock and ice, generally using axes and crampons. © Ines Papert</p>
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							<div class="mb-6"><img decoding="async" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/TS_ICE_SENJA_D303428-683x1024.jpg" alt="" /><p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">Natural ice is becoming scarcer and climbing days less frequent as the world grows warmer. © Ines Papert</p></div>							
																					
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>Aside from technical climbing skills and physical strength, what are the sort of characteristics that an aspiring ice climber should focus on?</strong></p>
<p>I think practising is the only way to become a better climber. There&#8217;s no other rule except doing it because it can be so different every time. So speaking about my first experience coming to Scotland for example, I brought 10 ice screws, which is what I usually bring on a big trip. All my Scottish friends were laughing at me they were like, <em>What would you do with those?</em> and I never used any. The second trip I brought four just in case, and again didn’t use any, but the third I didn&#8217;t bring any at all and all of a sudden all the big ice lines were formed and we had to ask around to borrow screws! So this story explains that every destination, every climb can be so different and you only learn by doing it.</p>
<p>Also, learning to read your line, trying to find the easiest way to get up. Listening and watching the hazards that are around &#8211; and there&#8217;s way more in ice climbing than rock climbing. I think seeing ice climbing as just as a sport is the wrong approach. It&#8217;s more than that. It&#8217;s many days and weeks and months and years of doing it for sure, but I wouldn&#8217;t say it&#8217;s impossible to learn. It seems way more difficult than it is in the beginning. The technical part is seems quite easy to some people, you have an axe with a big handle, you&#8217;re just swinging a tool. If you got the right technique and the right power, it&#8217;s not that difficult. But finding good gear is often what makes a difference. And it took me ages to learn about all the different gear we use, that&#8217;s quite a complex topic.</p>
<blockquote><p>You have to be flexible, and you often walk away without doing anything. That’s something we all have to learn</p></blockquote>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>Yes, there&#8217;s so much to learn about, and the list keeps on going on and on. Do you still feel as though you are learning even now?</strong></p>
<p>Oh, yes, I do still learn every time I go out. I promise.</p>
<p>And the days I get to go climbing are getting less and less, which I guess has to do with global warming and the ice. We don&#8217;t often have the days to get out and climb ice any more, which I think for current generations makes it harder to get into it. You have to be flexible, and you often walk away without doing anything. That’s something we all have to learn now.</p>
<p><strong>And of course making mistakes is a part of the learning process too. Has there ever been an occasion where you&#8217;ve made a mistake whilst climbing? And what did you learn from the mistake?</strong></p>
<p>Oh, I think I made many mistakes in my career! Because I have always been learning by doing, I hardly had any mentors that showed me how to do things.</p>
<p>With ice I don&#8217;t really remember having any big failures, but on rock I did. That was my earlier life when I thought I had to take every single chance to claim a big mountain face, you know. I was so driven and super motivated and didn&#8217;t look into the weather during the rush. I ripped a huge flake off the mountain face and I fell and hurt myself really badly and my partner almost got killed. We were so lucky we didn&#8217;t die, and this story told me: <em>Okay, often less is more</em>. Choosing the objectives at the right moment, taking your time, preparing and finding the right window to do big objectives, that taught me a lot. So I got quieter I got more responsible towards myself and my partner after that.</p>
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			<p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">Ines and husband Luka climb the mixed route Godzilla M9+ WI5+ in South Tyrol, Italy © Ines Papert</p>
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							<div class="mb-6"><img decoding="async" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/KF-20220923-Wolke-7-326-683x1024.jpg" alt="" /><p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">Ines and Luka at the top of their 380m route Wolke 7, in Bavaria © Klaus Fengler</p></div>							
																					
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>So you&#8217;re currently making a film at Helmcken Falls about a new route there, is telling the stories of your climbing experiences particularly important to you?</strong></p>
<p>The route we chose wasn’t actually chosen to create a film about, but the idea of filming it came up later on in that period. I would never climb a route just for a film, I would make the same decisions whether we film or not. But yeah, it&#8217;s just to give other people the chance to be part of it, that&#8217;s the motivation I guess.</p>
<p><strong>An element that is very inspiring for me, is that it’s an all-woman team that you are a part of too with this particular route. Does that have significance in the film?</strong></p>
<p>Doing it with another female climber, that&#8217;s pretty rare. I don&#8217;t know many on the planet that would love to do adventures like that, but Sarah is a pretty sweet and strong woman. She sometimes struggles with fears and she always says: <em>Oh, you&#8217;ve never you&#8217;re never scared</em>. But I am, honestly. I do watch the mountain and I ask myself what is the obvious risk? And is this just my kind of girlish, <em>Oh, I&#8217;m scared </em>thing? I try to push her a little bit and she gives me a good feeling that what I&#8217;m doing is right. So we are pretty good team and have lots of fun.</p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><blockquote><p>Having children when you’re young and full of power, you’re able to share what you love the most with your kids</p></blockquote>
<p><strong>Do you think that kind of dynamic, like what you and Sarah have, is unique to all-women teams especially?</strong></p>
<p>Yes, I see it often in females climbing. Climbing in the mountains is difficult, and also sketchy terrain. Often also I climb with my husband; we know each other really well, he has as much experience as I have, and we feel just comfortable. But women often get a bit lost in responsibility with a male partner. Sometimes when it comes to a hard pitch, the guy would go instead of me because I might not be that strong, which is stupid.</p>
<p>We just have to remember how strong we are and how strong we can be. And most of my female friends, they underestimate their skills. And I like pushing my female partners like: <em>C&#8217;mon, you can do it</em>. Because we are strong and we have the skills.</p>
<p><strong>Following on quite nicely from that, a lot more women climbers that have recently become mothers are sharing their journeys, from climbing whilst pregnant and their continuing to climb after birth. What was it like for you as a mother who continued to climb?</strong></p>
<p>I think I was in a pretty rare situation then, being a female climber in a sport that is was very much male dominated. And because my son appeared when I was 26 and I had just started my career, I never thought for a second, <em>yeah, that&#8217;s now over</em>. That was never an issue for me. For me it was simply a natural kind of development, to keep doing what I love doing the most, and to try to involve them into my life.</p>
<p>Having children when you&#8217;re young and full of power, you&#8217;re able to share what you love the most with your kids. And today, my son climbs as well. He loves climbing, he&#8217;s really strong. Luckily, he doesn&#8217;t do any alpine climbing, so I kind of feel good with that!</p>
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							<div class="mb-6"><img decoding="async" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC00712-1248x1872.jpeg" alt="" /><p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">&#8216;Often less is more&#8217; &#8211; patience and preparation are key to climbing © Ines Papert</p></div>							
																					
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>Do you think that the public attitude towards motherhood in activities that might be perceived as risky has changed to a more positive one, because of other athletes sharing that journey?</strong></p>
<p>I never had bad experiences, but I&#8217;m also the kind of person that would never listen to what other people think anyway. Back then I didn&#8217;t have the chance to share it in the way female athletes are doing it today and I really love to see that, and the way it helps other women get rid of those fears. Seeing other athletes having babies and sharing their experiences with them and other women, yeah, it’s very positive.</p>
<p>Obviously, the overall opinion becomes more open when we talk about women having kids and climbing at the same time. People will always say they think it’s right or wrong because of course, we take a risk here and there. But we&#8217;re not stupid, we do think a lot about it. I think that when you&#8217;re a mom, you think even more about risk. Climbing was always part of my life, I couldn&#8217;t just run away and pretend I was happy without doing it.</p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p style="text-align: center;"><em>For more inspiring insight from women who rock, check out <a href="https://www.base-mag.com/the-meaning-of-clean-climbing-with-emma-twyford/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">this interview with Emma Twyford</a> about ethical climbing and environmental stewardship, and <a href="https://www.base-mag.com/shauna-coxsey-climbing-pregnant/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Shauna Coxsey&#8217;s take</a> on media perceptions of climbing whilst pregnant.</em></p>
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		<title>Interview: A Baffin Vacation</title>
		<link>https://www.base-mag.com/sarah-mcnair-landry-interview-a-baffin-vacation/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Chris Hunt]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 18 Jan 2023 11:33:48 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Interview]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.base-mag.com/?p=7259</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Sarah McNair-Landry on her 45-day multi-sport expedition in the Arctic Circle]]></description>
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		<p id="breadcrumbs" class="mt-5 text-black" ><span><span><a href="https://www.base-mag.com/">Home</a></span> <span class="separator inline-block align-baseline mx-1 opacity-50"></span> <span class="breadcrumb_last" aria-current="page">Interview</span></span></p>		<h1 class="dirty-heading text-4xl md:text-h1   text-black">Interview: A Baffin Vacation</h1>
		<div class="text-md md:text-lg text-center mb-4 mx-auto text-black">Sarah McNair-Landry on her 45-day multi-sport expedition in the Arctic Circle</div>		
		
			
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							<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/interview/" class="block text-normal text-black">Interview</a>
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							<span class="text-orange uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1 sm:mb-2">Read time</span>
							<span class="block text-black">8 mins</span>
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						<span class="text-orange uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1 sm:mb-2">Published</span>
						<span class="block text-black">Jan 18, 2023</span>
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							<span class="text-orange uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1 sm:mb-2">Author</span>
							<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/rosie-fuller/" class="block text-normal text-black">Rosie Fuller</a>
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					<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/rosie-fuller/" class="h-12 w-12 md:h-20 md:w-20 inline-block bg-grey-light overflow-hidden rounded-full text-center"><img decoding="async" width="261" height="300" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Rosie-Fuller-e1674041056126-261x300.jpg" class="object-cover object-center h-full w-full wp-post-image" alt="" srcset="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Rosie-Fuller-e1674041056126-261x300.jpg 261w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Rosie-Fuller-e1674041056126-217x250.jpg 217w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Rosie-Fuller-e1674041056126.jpg 358w" sizes="(max-width: 261px) 100vw, 261px" /></a>					<div class="sm:pl-5 mx-auto sm:mx-0 text-center sm:text-left max-w-lg">
						<span class="text-black uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1">Rosie Fuller</span>
						<span class="block text-sm text-black">Tour Coordinator for the Banff Mountain Film Festival tour, when Rosie&#8217;s not watching films about the great outdoors, she spends her time in the great outdoors: climbing, running, hiking and skiing.</span>					</div>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><em><span style="font-weight: 400;">Most people&#8217;s summer holidays don’t involve skiing hundreds of kilometres over a frozen fjord in the Arctic Circle, but adventurers <a href="https://www.instagram.com/sarahmcnairlandry/?hl=en" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Sarah McNair-Landry</a> and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/erikboomer/?hl=en" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Erik Boomer</a> are not most people. On a romantic getaway with a difference, the duo set off on a bold, multi-sport 45-day expedition through the remote landscape of Baffin Island in Canada, in search of stunning cliffs to climb and unexplored rivers to white-water kayak.</span></em></p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><span style="font-weight: 400;">With the Arctic Ocean and a team of dogs in her backyard, growing up, </span><span style="font-weight: 400;">Sarah McNair-Landry called the wild and remote landscapes of Baffin Island home. Learning the skills of surviving in the cold at a young age, she soon started to venture on longer overnight trips. When she turned 18, she joined an unsupported expedition to the South Pole, and a year later she dog sledded to the North Pole, becoming the youngest person to reach both poles. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Since then she has traversed the Greenland Ice Cap five times, completed a two-month long dog sledding expedition to <a href="https://www.base-mag.com/notes-from-the-north/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Ellesmere Island</a> and has returned to both North and South Pole as a guide. Always seeking new adventures, she headed to the Gobi Desert in Mongolia, along with her brother Eric to complete the first non-vehicle supported kite-buggy crossing of the desert, and since has spent a month traveling with a friend and four camels through the Eastern Sahara in Egypt. </span></p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Her true passion though is kite-skiing. Along with her brother Eric, the duo kite-skied 3,300km retracing the Northwest Passage. The journey took them 85 days, battling rough ice, polar bears, and open water. An expedition that saw the two of them nominated for National Geographic prestigious Adventurer of the Year award in 2017 and Sarah named one of the Top Ten Women in Adventure by National Geographic Adventure Magazine. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">When she is not in the cold, she spends her time working in film and photography. And in 2022 along with her partner Erik Boomer, she released<a href="https://www.banff-uk.com/films" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><em> A Baffin Vacation</em></a>, documenting their multi-sport expedition through the remote landscape of the island on which she grew up.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">This year, the film will be touring with the Banff Mountain Film Festival. Rosie Fuller recently caught up with Sarah to find out more.</span></p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><b>So where exactly did you grow up, and where do you live now? </b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">I grew up in Iqaluit, on Southern Baffin Island Canada. It&#8217;s the capital city of Canada’s territory of Nunavut.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">E</span><span style="font-weight: 400;">rik grew up in American Falls and later McCall, Idaho. We love both locations, and now split our time between Iqaluit and the Tetons  in Idaho. </span></p>
<p><b>What was the idea behind the film A Baffin Vacation, and the expedition? </b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Erik is a professional white-water kayaker; his passion is seeking out new rivers and first descents in remote regions around the world. He is also a photographer. My background is long cold polar expeditions in the Arctic and Antarctic – dog sledding or kite skiing. Lately we&#8217;ve started climbing. The idea of this multi-sport expedition was to combine our passions into one adventure. </span></p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><blockquote><p>The idea of this multi-sport expedition was to combine our passions into one adventure</p></blockquote>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><b>What locations are featured in your film? </b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Inuksuit Fiord, east coast of Baffin Island is the location of our expedition and film. </span></p>
<p><b>We love good stories from the making of films. Can you tell us about the best days or memorable moments?</b><span style="font-weight: 400;"> </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">The expedition was completely self-filmed, which added a fun challenge. Being the characters and the filmmakers, all while on expedition and working physically hard every day, was at times really challenging, especially finding the motivation to film at the end of long days. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Since we skied in with all our expedition supplies, climbing gear, kayak gear and food for 45 days, we had to be as light as possible. Which meant we had limited camera equipment. We left our tripod at home and we were limited on battery power, as we only had a small solar battery set up, so every drone flight had to count! </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">The best days were simply being out on expedition in such a beautiful landscape, with all our toys – skis, kayaks, climbing gear – for a month and a half. </span></p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><b>How about funny stories and mishaps – if they happened, please tell us about them! </b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">While hauling our kayaks across a thin pan of ice, the ice suddenly gave away and Erik fell through the ice into the Arctic Ocean. I remember clearly thinking – should I film this, or should I help? I decided to help, and pushed out a kayak so he could grab onto it. As soon as Erik got back onto the slightly thicker ice, he looks at me and said, <em>Why didn&#8217;t you film it?</em></span></p>
<p><b>What&#8217;s next for you – any projects on the horizon? </b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Erik and I just spent the summer on a 71-day expedition in Kangiqtualuk on the east coast of Baffin about 250km north of where </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">A Baffin Vacation</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> was filmed. It was another multi-sport adventure; combining all our favourite sports: kite-skiing, skiing, climbing and kayaking. And Erik spent autumn in Mexico on a whitewater kayak expedition, kayaking new rivers that cut through deep canyons. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Now I know &#8211; film first, help second!</span></p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><blockquote><p>Now I know &#8211; film first, help second!</p></blockquote>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><b>How special is it for your film to be part of the Banff Tour?</b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Super excited that <em>A Baffin Vacation</em> is touring with Banff. We have to thank all the amazing friends who helped us tell this story! A huge thanks to Rush Sturges, who is an amazing filmmaker, and help us craft this story.</span></p>
<p><em>A Baffin Vacation will be touring as apart of the Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour. For the full UK schedule, complete line-up of films and to links to buy tickets, <a href="https://www.banff-uk.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">click here</a>.</em></p>
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		<title>The Essentials Of Adventure Filmmaking With Alex Bescoby</title>
		<link>https://www.base-mag.com/interview-alex-bescoby-adventure-filmmaker/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Hannah]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 11 Nov 2022 15:07:19 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Interview]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.base-mag.com/?p=6290</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[We chat to Alex about planning, executing and documenting an adventure, and his latest documentary The Last Overland]]></description>
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		<p id="breadcrumbs" class="mt-5 text-black" ><span><span><a href="https://www.base-mag.com/">Home</a></span> <span class="separator inline-block align-baseline mx-1 opacity-50"></span> <span class="breadcrumb_last" aria-current="page">Interview</span></span></p>		<h1 class="dirty-heading text-4xl md:text-h1   text-black">The Essentials Of Adventure Filmmaking With Alex Bescoby</h1>
		<div class="text-md md:text-lg text-center mb-4 mx-auto text-black">We chat to Alex about planning, executing and documenting an adventure, and his latest documentary The Last Overland</div>		
		
			
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							<span class="block text-black">10 mins</span>
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						<span class="text-orange uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1 sm:mb-2">Published</span>
						<span class="block text-black">Nov 11, 2022</span>
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							<span class="text-orange uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1 sm:mb-2">Author</span>
							<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/hannah-mitchell/" class="block text-normal text-black">Hannah Mitchell</a>
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					<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/hannah-mitchell/" class="h-12 w-12 md:h-20 md:w-20 inline-block bg-grey-light overflow-hidden rounded-full text-center"><img decoding="async" width="300" height="300" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n-300x300.jpg" class="object-cover object-center h-full w-full wp-post-image" alt="" srcset="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n-300x300.jpg 300w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n-150x150.jpg 150w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n-768x769.jpg 768w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n-600x600.jpg 600w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n-700x701.jpg 700w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n-250x250.jpg 250w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n.jpg 959w" sizes="(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /></a>					<div class="sm:pl-5 mx-auto sm:mx-0 text-center sm:text-left max-w-lg">
						<span class="text-black uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1">Hannah Mitchell</span>
						<span class="block text-sm text-black">BASE Digital Writer Hannah is a Lake District-based journalist and all-round outdoor lass with a particular fondness for rock faces.</span>					</div>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><em>As a student at Cambridge University, Alex Bescoby never imagined just where his hunger for history might take him. Now an award-winning filmmaker, author, explorer, historian and Fellow of the National Geographic Society, he has lived on the Thai-Myanmar border studying the shared history of the two countries, explored the back-country of Sierra Leone, the remote Peruvian Andes and the insurgent-ridden southern Philippines.</em></p>
<p><em>Alex co-founded <a href="http://www.grammar-productions.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Grammar Productions</a> in 2016, an independent film production company with a focus on innovative documentaries that explore the history, politics and culture of diverse and unique societies around the world. His latest project, <a href="http://www.lastoverland.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Last Overland,</a> saw Alex and his <a href="https://www.lastoverland.com/the-team" target="_blank" rel="noopener">team</a> driving 19,000km from Singapore to London in a 64-year-old Land Rover named Oxford, recreating one of history’s greatest road journeys for a 2022 <a href="https://www.channel4.com/programmes/the-last-overland" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Channel 4 documentary</a> series and <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Last-Overland-Singapore-Expedition-foreword/dp/1789294630/ref=zg_bs_279915_sccl_9/261-3865216-8063243?pd_rd_i=1789294630&amp;psc=1" target="_blank" rel="noopener">book</a>.</em></p>
<p><em>So, how exactly do you go about planning an epic expedition like The Last Overland? I chatted to Alex about organisation, execution and everything in between, from funding a trip to finding the perfect team.</em></p>
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		<p class="caption-text m-0 p-3">© Léopold Belanger / Grammar Productions</p>
	

	


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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>When did you first become interested in the idea of large-scale expeditions like The Last Overland, for example? Were you adventurous from a young age, or was it something that came about later in life?</strong></p>
<p>It was at university, I think. I grew up in Manchester and didn&#8217;t travel very much. Even though I sort-of fell in love with tales of great expeditions from the past and I grew up watching people like Michael Wood, Dan Snow, Simon Reeve and Ben Fogle on the TV, I never really thought that I would be able to do that kind of thing.</p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p>Then I went to university and I studied history and politics, and I got this accidental scholarship to go and study Thai and Burmese history &#8211; it turns out that nobody else would apply for it, so I got sent to Thailand and Burma for three months when I was about 20. It completely blew my mind, it was the first time I had ever experienced a culture shock, and it just opened my eyes to a completely different part of the world with completely different histories than the ones I&#8217;d grown up with. I think it was at that point that I realised I wanted to spend the rest of my life travelling the world in some form or another. That really lit the fire.</p>
<p><strong>How did you come up with the idea for The Last Overland?</strong></p>
<p>I eventually moved to Burma, and that became home for best best part of a decade. It was there that I got the chance to do lots more travelling. We were going to places people hadn&#8217;t been to in decades. I got this bug, particularly for finding journeys from the past that I could somehow recreate, or following historical stories was what I absolutely loved.</p>
<p>So in combining my passion for history with my passion for travel, it was when I was living in Burma that I stumbled on the story of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxford_and_Cambridge_Far_Eastern_Expedition" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The First Overland</a>. I was sort-of familiar with it because I grew up in a Land Rover family, and The First Overland is a bit of a Bible for Land Rover fans. I realised that they had been one of the last recorded people to drive across northern Burma and I was absolutely fascinated by the story.</p>
<p>I&#8217;d made a few films by this point and was making documentaries for a living, so I had this idea to maybe recreate the Burma stretch of The First Overland, to try and find the road that they driven on because it disappeared into the jungle. And it snowballed really, I ended up reaching out to the guy who owned the car from The First Overland and one of the original team members, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wzNwp-zOm4U" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Tim Slessor</a>, and they rather called my bluff and said &#8216;<em>w</em><em>ell, you&#8217;re not just recreating the Burma bit, you&#8217;ve got to do the whole thing&#8217;</em>.</p>
<p>For me, what really gets me about any expedition idea is whether it has a historical pedigree and historical depth, whether I can go and learn something about world history from doing that journey.</p>
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							<div class="mb-6"><img decoding="async" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/Oxford-on-the-way-to-Kashgar--1248x832.jpeg" alt="" /><p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">Oxford on the road to Kashgar, China. © Léopold Belanger / Grammar Productions</p></div>							
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<blockquote><p>What really gets me about any expedition idea is whether it has a historical pedigree and historical depth, whether I can go and learn something about world history from doing that journey</p></blockquote>
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			<p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">The Land Rover &#8216;Oxford&#8217; station wagon on its original overland expedition © Antony Barrington Brown / The First Overland</p>
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<blockquote><p>You’ve got to really believe in your story, because the only way you’re going to convince people to fund it is if they can catch the passion from you</p></blockquote>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>How did studying history and politics turn into documentary-making? Was it always something that you thought you would combine with those subjects and where did it all begin?</strong></p>
<p>When I was at uni, I really wanted to join the Foreign Office, that was my dream, this idea of being posted abroad. I came from a very sheltered background, it was a very small town upbringing and I just thought, <em>ok, the Foreign Office must be what you do if you want to go and live overseas</em>. But I didn&#8217;t get into the Foreign Office because I think I have a bit of a problem with authority!</p>
<p>I didn&#8217;t know anything about filmmaking or writing, I didn&#8217;t know any filmmakers. I knew that I wanted to travel. I loved watching travel and history documentaries, I would come home from my job in the city where I was making PowerPoint presentations, and I&#8217;d put on the telly and binge-watch Levison Wood, and all these people doing these amazing things and filming them.</p>
<p>It wasn&#8217;t until I moved to Burma and I was trying to write a book that I met these amazing characters who became the subjects of my first film – <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/world/2016/dec/30/myanmar-burma-royal-family-monarchy-king-thibaw-comeback" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Last Royal Family Of Burma</a>. I remember sitting there interviewing them for my book, just thinking the whole time, <em>what a waste this will be</em>, that it&#8217;ll be in a book that no one will read. So I called a school friend and asked <em>would you mind coming out and filming these interviews, and maybe we can make a documentary?</em> It was as simple as that.</p>
<p>I was working full-time doing another job, and I just started funding this film with every penny I had. And luckily, we won one of the biggest film prizes in the UK, <a href="https://www.whickerawards.com/apply/film-and-tv/#:~:text=With%20a%20main%20award%20worth,out%20more%20and%20apply%20below." target="_blank" rel="noopener">the Whickers Film Prize</a>. We were so, so lucky, and it basically gave us a proper budget and proper professional support to make this first film, I learned how to make a documentary and all of a sudden, I was a documentary maker.</p>
<p>That was back in 2016. Since then, I&#8217;ve gone on to make several more films, all with this historical angle but very much about far-flung places with really endearing characters at their heart. That&#8217;s my passion. So I&#8217;m self-taught in many ways, but also taught by the brilliant people that I&#8217;ve worked with. I never thought when I was watching those films of Michael Wood and Dan Snow that one day I might be able to do this for a living, but I got there!</p>
<p><strong>And the rest is history?!</strong></p>
<p>There was a moment where it kind-of snowballed. I remember the first interview we filmed was this this wonderful 95-year-old Princess called Hteik Su Phaya Gyi. My mate Max had been to film school, so he came and filmed it, I&#8217;d never been on a film set, never used a film camera before. I slept with the hard drive under my pillow, because I was like, <em>this is so precious</em>. The interview was just golden. I remember thinking, <em>we made this</em>, and it looked like something you could watch on telly. And I was like,<em> ok, right, we can do this!</em></p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>One of the main barriers that a lot of people face when they&#8217;re beginning to conceptualise a film like this is funding. What would your advice be to anyone at that stage who is perhaps struggling to know where to begin?</strong></p>
<p>Well, I&#8217;ll repeat what many of my mentors said when I was getting into it: <em>Don&#8217;t go into documentary making if you want to make a lot of money, because you won&#8217;t!</em> But that&#8217;s not why you do it. It&#8217;s been hardscrabble, but I wouldn&#8217;t and couldn&#8217;t do anything else. I had a full time job when I started, and I basically moonlighted as a filmmaker. It&#8217;s a fantastic industry but it is very hard to make a living as an independent filmmaker, and it&#8217;s getting increasingly fragmented.</p>
<p>There are different ways I funded my projects, the very first one was a combination of literally spending every penny I could spare from my own salary, to then winning a film prize, which is something that is very competitive. And the film prize that I won was about ten times the size of the average for a small documentary film. Typically you might be lucky to get two grand, five if you&#8217;re lucky, and we won a hundred, which was just insane. So, if you&#8217;re relying on things like film prizes, you&#8217;ve got to be really good and you&#8217;ve got to be prepared to face rejection. Outside of that you&#8217;ve got to be inventive about cobbling together sources of money, that&#8217;s the trick. You&#8217;re never going to fund it from just one source alone.</p>
<p>We also tried crowdfunding which was quite successful but again, you&#8217;ve got to have a really compelling story, one that more than just your mum, dad and your neighbours are going to chuck some money into. The film I crowdfunded was about World War II in Burma, and we had an amazing network of families whose whose relatives had served in Burma so we hit a wonderful nerve where people said <em>this story needs to be told</em>.</p>
<p>The Last Overland was funded via brand sponsorship. That was the biggest budget thing I&#8217;ve done so far, and the majority of that was from 13 different brands who backed it including OPIHR Gin, a spirits brand that also has a vested interest in the ancient spice route and adventuring. Obviously, all of these pots of money come with strings attached and work and relationships to manage. The one thing we haven&#8217;t had as a production company yet is a straight up channel commission, we&#8217;ve got The Last Overland on Channel 4 with a mixture of brand sponsorship and distribution funding, so people pre-buying rights and channel money, but all my projects are basically being funded from a mixture of sources.</p>
<p>So I would say my advice to anybody looking for funding, is you&#8217;ve got to work bloody hard and you&#8217;ve got to really believe in your story, because the only way you&#8217;re going to convince people to fund it is if they can catch the passion from you. You can be assured, there are a hundred other people with a good idea who are knocking on the same door.</p>
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		<p class="caption-text m-0 p-3">Alex and Nat on top of Oxford in Eastern Thailand © Léopold Belanger / Grammar Productions</p>
	

	


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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>What&#8217;s the jumping off point for your planning process? Where do you begin when you&#8217;re planning something on the scale of The Last Overland?</strong></p>
<p>With good people. You know, I&#8217;m good at some things &#8211; I think I&#8217;m good at finding a story, I&#8217;m good at fundraising. But for a large-scale logistical challenge like The Last Overland, I immediately partnered up with an old friend of mine who had run a travel company, Marcus. He&#8217;s not only a dear friend, but also a pedant. Somebody who was passionate about the detail, from fuel consumption, to mileage, to insurance to permits, without Marcus taking that burden and responsibility with a seasoned head and moving people safely in difficult environments, it would never have happened as smoothly as it did. In terms of the filmmaking side, I&#8217;m a producer, I know my way around a film set, but you&#8217;ve got to bring in professionals, and I had my friends Leo and David who came to run that side of things.</p>
<p>Particularly on an expedition, you&#8217;re going to live with these people day in day out; eat three meals a day with them, bunk down with them, wake up with them, get ill, get grumpy, get tired. So you&#8217;ve got to be good mates before you go. That being said, sometimes on an expedition, you can&#8217;t choose. Sometimes you end up with people and you&#8217;ve got to just learn to get on with them. So yeah, people. You can do anything with the right team around you.</p>
<p><strong>What are the other essential characteristics of explorers for a successful expedition?</strong></p>
<p>I&#8217;d say the ability to be flexible and realise that your plan rarely will survive contact with reality. When things do change, you have to keep a sense of positivity and enthusiasm, and I guess a commitment or a focus on the end goal. Which is why I think when it comes back to the beginning, it&#8217;s about that compelling story for me, story is king. So, everybody who joins this trip has to understand why they&#8217;re doing it and what the goal is, and why when it gets really hard or everything feels like it&#8217;s lost, they just keep going. A compelling mission is really important.</p>
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			<p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">Oxford embarks on the Pamir Highway, Tajikistan © Léopold Belanger / Grammar Productions</p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>Has there been anything on your travels so far that has totally caught you off guard? Something unexpected that you just couldn&#8217;t anticipate, either physically?</strong></p>
<p>One thing we&#8217;d obviously talked about was having some sort of major accident. You know, we were driving in a very old car from 1955, we were taking it across 23 countries over four months. And of course, nightmare scenario is it happens in the back end of Nepal or central Tajikistan where where help is far away. We were very lucky that we didn&#8217;t have a major collision, we did however, have the wheel fall off the car when it was travelling at 50 miles an hour, which thank god, happened on a flat road in Turkmenistan. If it had happened on many of the mountain roads we had been driving on the previous weeks in Tibet or Nepal, we would have been dead. So there was an element of just how fragile the whole thing was – I think that really caught me off guard. That&#8217;s when you have to think, <em>what are we doing this for?</em> If someone died in a car crash for this, is it worth it?</p>
<p>When we were in Nagaland, we got caught in the middle of a very tense standoff between two Naga villages where one had tried to burn down the other the night before. A lot of armed men, a lot of angry people, and we were stuck in the middle of it. And we were skirting Afghanistan and places where tourists had been deliberately targeted by the Taliban and there was again, an element of wondering, <em>what is the right level of risk to take? Where&#8217;s the line between adventurous and reckless? </em>I don&#8217;t think we ever crossed it deliberately and I think that&#8217;s really important. I&#8217;m not reckless. I&#8217;m not an adrenaline junkie at all, I&#8217;m a historian. And whilst everyone came on that trip knowing their own risk appetite and knowing what they were doing, I did feel the weight of it, the responsibility.</p>
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							<div class="mb-6"><img decoding="async" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/Tibie-David-and-Alex-with-Oxford-in-Tajikistan-1248x832.jpg" alt="" /><p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">Oxford in Tajikistan © Léopold Belanger / Grammar Productions</p></div>							
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							<div class="mb-6"><img decoding="async" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/Tim-Slessor-shaving-683x1024.jpeg" alt="" /><p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">Tim Slessor on the First Overland expedition in 1955 © Antony Barrington Brown / The First Overland</p></div>							
																					
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>As well as the documentary series, you&#8217;ve written <a href="https://www.waterstones.com/book/the-last-overland/alex-bescoby/9781789294637" target="_blank" rel="noopener">a book</a> about The Last Overland expedition. Nowadays, there seems to be a really heavy focus on video, and it can feel like people are loath to read anything longer than an Instagram caption. Do you think people still have a healthy appetite for adventure books?</strong></p>
<p>I hope so. Because frankly, books have a much longer shelf-life, excuse the pun. A well written travel book is something that people will pick up for decades, particularly if there&#8217;s something slightly bigger than the journey itself in the story. When I wrote The Last Overland, that was my goal &#8211; I wanted people to pick it up thinking it was just a book about a car journey and find out that it&#8217;s actually something else.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.goodreads.com/en/book/show/336877.First_Overland" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The First Overland</a> is still in print 64 years later. It&#8217;s brilliantly written, and it&#8217;s a window into a particular period of time. I wanted The Last Overland to have the same longevity and to be a window in time and not something that becomes redundant within a year. I think a documentary series has maybe five years if you&#8217;re lucky, something like <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Long_Way_Round" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Long Way Round</a> or <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Long_Way_Down" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Long Way Down</a>, I think people are still picking those books up. I think if you get the formula right, you can make a series that becomes a classic but it&#8217;s much harder because of the sheer volume of content. Whereas I think a book, if it&#8217;s thoughtfully done and not just bashed out with what literally happened on screen, it can become timeless.</p>
<p><strong>How do the two production processes differ for you personally? Do you have a preference? </strong></p>
<p>I enjoyed both of them, I was in the edit every day for the series, and I wrote the book myself. With both of them I laughed, cried and wanted to give it all up at multiple points. They&#8217;re very different processes but both have their distinct joys. One is much lonelier than the other, a book is a much lonelier exercise but for me it&#8217;s very satisfying because it&#8217;s something I can do myself. Whereas with filmmaking, I&#8217;m reliant on an editor and it&#8217;s just completely different because then I&#8217;m working with a team &#8211; I love that the creative process is different. They&#8217;re very different creatures, you learn different things from each one and I like that.</p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>Tim Slessor who was part of the original expedition and wrote The First Overland book was a key part of the planning process and inspiration behind your own trip. What lessons did you learn from him that you&#8217;ll take with you into future adventures?</strong></p>
<p>What I loved most about the early days of planning with Tim was listening to him talk about what the world was like back then. We&#8217;d be looking at maps and he would tell me stories &#8211; he spent his life travelling the world and making films and is just an encyclopaedia of wisdom. On the practical side, some of his tips are a bit redundant now because we have new technology and things they didn&#8217;t have then, but there&#8217;s certain ground rules when it comes to team management, motivation, having good people and a sense of mission. So many of those things that he told me. almost in passing, in those early days came into the fore later on in the trip.</p>
<p>What I learned from Tim, which is why I was so in awe of him, was that he had two undeniable things. One was curiosity &#8211; he&#8217;s 91, he&#8217;s still totally engaged in the news, he&#8217;s constantly reading, always wants to know more, always wants to travel more, he&#8217;s a guy that just wants to see and see and see. And then something which I think is rare in older men, particularly as we age, is that he&#8217;s so open-minded. So progressive, so thoughtful, so willing to be wrong and to learn. And I think that is essential. You know, if you&#8217;re going to travel and tell stories for a living, you&#8217;ve got to continually be willing to be wrong, to be humbled and to have your mind changed by events and what you find. Those are two qualities that I absolutely adored in him.</p>
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<p><em>The Last Overland is available to watch <a href="https://www.channel4.com/programmes/the-last-overland" target="_blank" rel="noopener">on demand</a> on ALL4, and Alex&#8217;s book about the expedition is available to buy in hardback.</em></p>
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		<title>The Meaning of Clean Climbing with Emma Twyford</title>
		<link>https://www.base-mag.com/the-meaning-of-clean-climbing-with-emma-twyford/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Hannah]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 01 Nov 2022 18:14:30 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Interview]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.base-mag.com/?p=5749</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[50 years since the manifesto was written, we catch up with Emma to hear what Yvon Chouinard's ethical climbing vision means today]]></description>
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		<p id="breadcrumbs" class="mt-5 text-black" ><span><span><a href="https://www.base-mag.com/">Home</a></span> <span class="separator inline-block align-baseline mx-1 opacity-50"></span> <span class="breadcrumb_last" aria-current="page">Interview</span></span></p>		<h1 class="dirty-heading text-4xl md:text-h1   text-black">The Meaning of Clean Climbing with Emma Twyford</h1>
		<div class="text-md md:text-lg text-center mb-4 mx-auto text-black">50 years since the manifesto was written, we catch up with Emma to hear what Yvon Chouinard&#8217;s ethical climbing vision means today</div>		
		
			
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						<span class="block text-black">Nov 01, 2022</span>
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							<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/hannah-mitchell/" class="block text-normal text-black">Hannah Mitchell</a>
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					<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/hannah-mitchell/" class="h-12 w-12 md:h-20 md:w-20 inline-block bg-grey-light overflow-hidden rounded-full text-center"><img decoding="async" width="300" height="300" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n-300x300.jpg" class="object-cover object-center h-full w-full wp-post-image" alt="" srcset="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n-300x300.jpg 300w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n-150x150.jpg 150w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n-768x769.jpg 768w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n-600x600.jpg 600w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n-700x701.jpg 700w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n-250x250.jpg 250w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/172376795_10165823034825713_4249501438118695743_n.jpg 959w" sizes="(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /></a>					<div class="sm:pl-5 mx-auto sm:mx-0 text-center sm:text-left max-w-lg">
						<span class="text-black uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1">Hannah Mitchell</span>
						<span class="block text-sm text-black">BASE Digital Writer Hannah is a Lake District-based journalist and all-round outdoor lass with a particular fondness for rock faces.</span>					</div>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p style="text-align: center;"><em>&#8216;No longer can we assume the earth’s resources are limitless; that there are ranges of unclimbed peaks extending endlessly beyond the horizon. Mountains are finite, and despite their massive appearance, they are fragile.&#8217;</em></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span class="p">—Tom Frost and Yvon Chouinard, from the 1972 Chouinard Equipment catalogue</span></p>
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		<p class="caption-text m-0 p-3">Emma climbing The Big Bang (9a) at Lower Pen Trywn, becoming the first British woman to climb the grade. © Marc Langley</p>
	

	


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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><h5></h5>
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<h4>Clean Climbing &#8211; then and now</h4>
<p style="text-align: left;">Half a century ago, founder of Chouinard Equipment and latterly Patagonia, Yvon Chouinard, wrote a manifesto of sorts in an equipment catalogue. It was a call to arms, advocating for a new kind of climbing and a renewed respect for the rock, as participation in climbing surged in the late 1960s and into the early 70s.</p>
<p>In that manifesto, Chouinard and fellow climbers Tom Frost and Doug Robinson, implored others to reconsider their ethics, to exercise restraint, and to alter their behaviours in order to protect fragile rock faces for future generations and for the good of the environment. The use of <span class="s1"><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piton">steel pitons</a></span>, which had been for many years the accepted method of ascending big-wall climbs, was strongly discouraged. Chouinard, Frost and Robinson proposed that climbers might adopt new and less damaging means of ascending, including the use of removable gear such as chocks and hexes. They argued that good style mattered more than reaching the top, and that strength, skill, judgement and a <i>leave no trace</i> ethic were far more admirable than simply sending.</p>
<p>In the years since that first manifesto, climbing has become bigger than Chouinard could ever have imagined, and no longer solely the reserve of the <a href="https://vimeo.com/ondemand/valleyuprising" target="_blank" rel="noopener">car-dwelling Camp 4 dirtbags</a>. Climbers these days continue to push the limits both indoors on the competition circuit, and outdoors on real rock &#8211; <a href="https://www.scarpa.co.uk/scarpa-team/emma-twyford/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Emma Twyford</a> is no stranger to either.</p>
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							<div class="mb-6"><img decoding="async" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/frost_t_0035_BP-1248x1819.jpg" alt="" /><p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">Chouinard with a selection of equipment for sale in Yosemite in the 1960s. © Tom Frost/Patagonia</p></div>							
																					
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p>Introduced to trad climbing by her dad at age seven, you could say that Emma was raised on the rock. A Lake District native now based in North Wales, over the course of her climbing career, she aced the competition circuit to become British bouldering champion and represented Team GB before fully returning to outdoor climbing in her mid-twenties. Emma has ticked a number of prodigious grades in trad, sport and bouldering and in 2019 turned her hand to alpine climbing, making the first British ascent of <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/08/camilotto_pellisier_8a+_by_helliker_and_twyford-72026" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Camilotto Pelissier</a> in the Dolomites.</p>
<p>Grades and epic ascents aside, Emma is also an experienced professional route setter, passionate environmental advocate and ambassador for both Patagonia and <a href="https://protectourwinters.org/pow-international/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Protect Our Winters</a>. I chatted to Emma about <a href="https://eu.patagonia.com/gb/en/stories/bring-back-clean-climbing/story-116308.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Chouinard&#8217;s Clean Climbing ethics</a>, how they apply in modern times, and how the outdoor community as a whole can be better stewards for the environment and for one another.</p>
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			<p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">Emma on the aptly named &#8216;Vile Crack&#8217; pitch of Longhope Direct (E10 6c), Hoy. © Marc Langley</p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>A lot has changed since Chouinard first coined the term. So, what does Clean Climbing mean in a modern-day context, and in relation to your own climbing?</strong></p>
<p>It&#8217;s kind of a funny one, because fundamentally Clean Climbing would be just going climbing without any kit whatsoever and leaving no trace. It would mean everyone soloing, but the reality is that it&#8217;s not really ever going to happen. I don&#8217;t solo, it&#8217;s not a form of climbing that I would do because the consequences for me are too high.</p>
<p>So I guess Clean Climbing to me is trying to climb in the purest form as possible. The ideal would be to place your gear, have the person who&#8217;s following you take it out, and leave nothing behind. The reality of that is you&#8217;ll probably get chalk everywhere on the rock, and sometimes there is a piece of gear that gets stuck, and you just can&#8217;t get out no matter how hard you try &#8211; you end up having an epic trying to get it out.</p>
<p>At the end of the day, it is quite a selfish pursuit, so I think it&#8217;s just down to respecting the rock and its surroundings. Don&#8217;t leave litter, don&#8217;t impact on any wildlife or go cutting down trees. Try and brush off any chalk marks that you do leave, brush as you go and try to just always be respectful of the environment and the fact that it isn’t only ours and we weren’t there first.</p>
<p>Like if there are bird restrictions on a crag, they’re there for a reason. There&#8217;s plenty of other rock around to climb on, and you&#8217;ve got to respect those restrictions and wait for that piece of rock to be available once the birds have flown away. I think it&#8217;s just being as respectful as we can be, even if we&#8217;re not perfect. And, having that kind of affinity with the environment.</p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><blockquote><p>At the end of the day, it is quite a selfish pursuit, so I think it&#8217;s just down to respecting the rock and its surroundings</p></blockquote>
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							<div class="mb-6"><img decoding="async" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/big-issue-scarpa-3-e1667230956105.jpg" alt="" /><p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">© John Bunney</p></div>							
																					
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>The accessibility and relatively safe nature of the indoor environment means that many people will begin their climbing careers at the wall, transitioning to outdoor climbing once they have a basic skillset. So, can the outdoor ethics of Clean Climbing be taught at the wall?</strong></p>
<p>Predominantly, people start climbing indoors now, that&#8217;s where a lot of people learn. Climbing walls and instructors can offer a safe way into climbing outside and there are definitely fundamental things you can learn indoors, like tying in and how to belay safely. Then you get into kit, and indoors often a lot of that is provided, so it’s about making sure you have the right kit, the right guidebooks, that you have the right route planned – all those sorts of common sense things, and then you can take that with you to the outdoors.</p>
<p><strong>Transitioning into the outdoors presents a myriad of new challenges too; rules to abide by, ethics to respect, and a whole new code of conduct. Where does Clean Climbing fit into that transition and how do we instil those ethics into people who are moving into the outdoors?</strong></p>
<p>Guides and instructors can offer a safe way into climbing outside. I guess a lot of the education side boils down to each governing body within the country. So the <a href="https://www.thebmc.co.uk/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">BMC</a> in England is educating people from indoors to the outdoors. For example, just as Covid was slowing down, there were a lot more people going outside for the first time because walls were still closed and that was anything you could do. And the BMC made a lot of videos about crag etiquette and safety, and different things like using <a href="https://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmc-regional-access-database" target="_blank" rel="noopener">the RAD app</a>.</p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>And what sort of role can we as a community play in helping to teach people who are perhaps new to climbing how to be more conscientious and adopt a Clean Climbing mentality?</strong></p>
<p>As much as anything, if you see someone doing something not quite right, rather than be like, <em>oh they&#8217;re an idiot</em>, go over and explain to them. If you see someone who&#8217;s doing something dangerous, try to politely point out to them that it&#8217;s dangerous and why, and offer an actual explanation so that people can learn.</p>
<p>A lot of people are very quick to just take to the internet too. Rather than offering constructive advice at the time, they just wait til they get home and moan on UKC!</p>
<p><strong>Absolutely! People are very quick to criticise other&#8217;s behaviour on social media, but it isn&#8217;t necessarily a productive way to combat it. Can social media be a positive tool for encouraging a Clean Climbing mentality too?  </strong></p>
<p>I think you&#8217;ve got a lot of professional climbers on social media these days who will call out bad behaviour or etiquette, like when they first arrive at a boulder if it&#8217;s tick marked or caked in chalk a lot of them will then put it on social media and say look, this isn&#8217;t acceptable. It&#8217;s just going about it the right way.</p>
<p>Social media has its pros and its cons. It&#8217;s definitely one advantage that people can put things on their stories or feeds that encourage other climbers to just give a little back. Like if you&#8217;re at the crag and there&#8217;s some rubbish, even if it isn&#8217;t yours &#8211; take it away. The more people that do bring it up, the more it&#8217;s seen, hopefully, the more people are aware of it.</p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>You grew up in the lakes and now you&#8217;re based in North Wales. In both of those places, you must be noticing that they&#8217;re becoming a lot busier, and that there&#8217;s a lot more people wanting to get outside, not only for climbing. It&#8217;s a really positive thing for people&#8217;s mental and physical health, but there&#8217;s also quite an obvious impact on the wild spaces within those areas. How do you think we can balance those two things?</strong></p>
<p>I think because of Covid, a lot more people started to get outside to maybe go for walks or just to go to a scenic spot or to go wild swimming, and sadly things get left behind. Again, the BMC do a lot of work in organising clean-ups nationally, you have the <a href="https://www.thebmc.co.uk/hills-2-oceans-returns-for-2022" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Hills2Oceans campaign</a> and within that you get people who love the outdoors going and doing litter picks, but really the education needs to be there in the first place to advise people of what is and isn&#8217;t ok.</p>
<p>I think a lot of it comes down to each local council to lessen the impact of those increased numbers of visitors. For example there is a little Park and Ride system here for <a href="https://www.llanberis.com/llanberispass.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener">the Llanberis Pass</a> &#8211; better public transport to these places lessens the impact of vehicles on the areas. Maybe there&#8217;s some some sort of role to be made, to educate and raise awareness and encourage a bit more responsibility amongst people. I don&#8217;t 100% know what the solution is to that, like, do you have a sign at the foot of the mountains telling people to take their litter home? Should there be more fines in place for littering?</p>
<p><span class="TextRun SCXW99671538 BCX0" lang="EN-GB" xml:lang="EN-GB" data-contrast="auto"><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW99671538 BCX0">I think </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW99671538 BCX0">it&#8217;s</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW99671538 BCX0"> great that more people do want to be outside. It&#8217;s </span><span class="NormalTextRun AdvancedProofingIssueV2Themed SCXW99671538 BCX0">really important</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW99671538 BCX0"> for people&#8217;s mental health and well-being to </span><span class="NormalTextRun AdvancedProofingIssueV2Themed SCXW99671538 BCX0">actually get</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW99671538 BCX0"> some exercise and be outdoors and enjoy it. But at the same time, there </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW99671538 BCX0">does need to be education</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW99671538 BCX0">. To look after these places and not just take them for granted, because </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW99671538 BCX0">if we </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW99671538 BCX0">can&#8217;t</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW99671538 BCX0"> even do the basic, simple stuff like taking home our own banana skin, how are we supposed to start making changes that impact the much bigger issues at hand like climate change?</span></span></p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong><span class="TextRun SCXW119239633 BCX0" lang="EN-GB" xml:lang="EN-GB" data-contrast="auto"><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW119239633 BCX0">Which </span><span class="NormalTextRun AdvancedProofingIssueV2Themed SCXW119239633 BCX0">actually brings</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW119239633 BCX0"> me to my next question. I think everyone in the outdoors is </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW119239633 BCX0">feeling</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW119239633 BCX0"> the effects of climate change more acutely this year than </span><span class="NormalTextRun SpellingErrorV2Themed SCXW119239633 BCX0">than</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW119239633 BCX0"> ever before. Incidents like the</span> M<span class="NormalTextRun SpellingErrorV2Themed SCXW119239633 BCX0">armolada </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW119239633 BCX0">glacier collapse,</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW119239633 BCX0"> rockfalls on Mont Blanc and wildfire in Oliana, for example, have brought it to the forefront of a lot of climber&#8217;s minds. How can we as climbers, and the wider outdoor community, act upon that to facilitate change</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW119239633 BCX0">?</span></span></strong></p>
<p><span class="EOP SCXW119239633 BCX0" data-ccp-props="{&quot;201341983&quot;:0,&quot;335559739&quot;:160,&quot;335559740&quot;:259}"><span class="TextRun SCXW14182200 BCX0" lang="EN-GB" xml:lang="EN-GB" data-contrast="auto"><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW14182200 BCX0">I think governments and big industry corporations have done </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW14182200 BCX0">a very good</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW14182200 BCX0"> job at getting everyone to point their fingers at each other when it comes to climate change. It&#8217;s very easy to say <em>you flew here</em> and <em>you&#8217;re not vegan</em> or <em>you don&#8217;t have an electric vehicle</em>. The reality is that everyone is not going to just stop flying, but I think climbers are becoming more <span class="NormalTextRun AdvancedProofingIssueV2Themed SCXW14182200 BCX0">aware</span> and being a bit more careful about how they travel and how often they travel. </span></span></span></p>
<p><span class="EOP SCXW119239633 BCX0" data-ccp-props="{&quot;201341983&quot;:0,&quot;335559739&quot;:160,&quot;335559740&quot;:259}"><span class="TextRun SCXW14182200 BCX0" lang="EN-GB" xml:lang="EN-GB" data-contrast="auto"><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW14182200 BCX0">And whilst yes, people within the population can make </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW14182200 BCX0">small changes</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW14182200 BCX0"> themselves, </span><span class="NormalTextRun SpellingErrorV2Themed SCXW14182200 BCX0">it</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW14182200 BCX0"> is going to take a lot of governmental and industrial change. And </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW14182200 BCX0">that means protesting and writing to your local MPs and getting involved in things that can be done within your area and with organisations like Protect Our Winters. We&#8217;ve got <span class="NormalTextRun SCXW90194737 BCX0"><a href="https://cop27.eg/#/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">COP27</a> coming up very soon, so holding each country&#8217;s government up to </span><span class="NormalTextRun SpellingErrorV2Themed SCXW90194737 BCX0">to</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW90194737 BCX0"> the promises that </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW90194737 BCX0">they&#8217;ve</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW90194737 BCX0"> made, </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW90194737 BCX0">being aware of your local </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW90194737 BCX0">MP and what </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW90194737 BCX0">they&#8217;re</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW90194737 BCX0"> voting on and questioning those votes. </span></span></span></span></p>
<p><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW90194737 BCX0">I </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW90194737 BCX0">really advocate</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW90194737 BCX0"> for people who love the outdoors to </span><span class="NormalTextRun AdvancedProofingIssueV2Themed SCXW90194737 BCX0">go and do</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW90194737 BCX0"> the <a href="https://pledge.protectourwinters.uk/blog/getting-empowered-through-pow-carbon-literacy-training/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">POW Carbon Literacy sessions</a> too, because they are really, </span><span class="NormalTextRun AdvancedProofingIssueV2Themed SCXW90194737 BCX0">really valuable</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW90194737 BCX0">. They </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW90194737 BCX0">teach</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW90194737 BCX0"> you a little bit more about </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW90194737 BCX0">what&#8217;s</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW90194737 BCX0"> going on and what you can do.</span></p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><blockquote><p><span class="EOP SCXW119239633 BCX0" data-ccp-props="{&quot;201341983&quot;:0,&quot;335559739&quot;:160,&quot;335559740&quot;:259}"><span class="TextRun SCXW14182200 BCX0" lang="EN-GB" xml:lang="EN-GB" data-contrast="auto"><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW14182200 BCX0">I think governments and big industry corporations have done </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW14182200 BCX0">a very good</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW14182200 BCX0"> job at getting everyone to point their fingers at each other when it comes to climate change</span></span></span></p></blockquote>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><blockquote><p><span class="TextRun SCXW44895807 BCX0" lang="EN-GB" xml:lang="EN-GB" data-contrast="auto"><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW44895807 BCX0">It&#8217;s</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW44895807 BCX0"> important</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW44895807 BCX0"> to get people to stop finger-pointing at each other and to be more of a collective voice, and then</span></span><span class="TextRun SCXW143691032 BCX0" lang="EN-GB" xml:lang="EN-GB" data-contrast="auto"><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW143691032 BCX0"> using that collective voice to get people that are </span><span class="NormalTextRun AdvancedProofingIssueV2Themed SCXW143691032 BCX0">actually in</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW143691032 BCX0"> powerful positions to act upon that</span></span></p></blockquote>
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<p><strong>With the state of the environment, cost of living crisis and all the other issues at play in the world, it&#8217;s very easy to feel powerless &#8211; even defeated. How can we as a community remain positive and proactive in looking after the places we love, and the environment more generally?</strong></p>
<p><span class="TextRun SCXW66659816 BCX0" lang="EN-GB" xml:lang="EN-GB" data-contrast="auto"><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW66659816 BCX0">It&#8217;s important to remember when you feel like that, that change is possible. Like if you look at the ozone layer, it&#8217;s possible to reverse the effects of climate change, or at least slow them down.</span></span></p>
<p><span class="TextRun SCXW44895807 BCX0" lang="EN-GB" xml:lang="EN-GB" data-contrast="auto"><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW44895807 BCX0">It&#8217;s</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW44895807 BCX0"> important</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW44895807 BCX0"> to get people to stop finger-pointing at each other and to be more of a collective voice, and then</span></span><span class="TextRun SCXW143691032 BCX0" lang="EN-GB" xml:lang="EN-GB" data-contrast="auto"><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW143691032 BCX0"> using that collective voice to get people that are </span><span class="NormalTextRun AdvancedProofingIssueV2Themed SCXW143691032 BCX0">actually in</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW143691032 BCX0"> powerful positions to act upon that. </span></span></p>
<p><span class="TextRun SCXW143691032 BCX0" lang="EN-GB" xml:lang="EN-GB" data-contrast="auto"><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW143691032 BCX0">I know a lot of <span class="TextRun SCXW169936883 BCX0" lang="EN-GB" xml:lang="EN-GB" data-contrast="auto"><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW169936883 BCX0">people are feeling quite like pessimistic and </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW169936883 BCX0">like</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW169936883 BCX0"> their individual actions </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW169936883 BCX0">aren&#8217;t</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW169936883 BCX0"> going to make a difference &#8211; </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW169936883 BCX0">if </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW169936883 BCX0">you&#8217;re</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW169936883 BCX0"> getting to the point where </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW169936883 BCX0">you&#8217;re</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW169936883 BCX0"> feeling like that, i</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW169936883 BCX0">t&#8217;s</span> <span class="NormalTextRun AdvancedProofingIssueV2Themed SCXW169936883 BCX0">really worth</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW169936883 BCX0"> looking for groups to get involved in. When </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW169936883 BCX0">you&#8217;ve</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW169936883 BCX0"> got that little community of people that care about the same things as you, </span><span class="NormalTextRun SpellingErrorV2Themed SCXW169936883 BCX0">you</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW169936883 BCX0"> bounce off each other and it</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW169936883 BCX0"> reinvigorates</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW169936883 BCX0"> that need to </span><span class="NormalTextRun ContextualSpellingAndGrammarErrorV2Themed SCXW169936883 BCX0">do</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW169936883 BCX0"> something. I</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW169936883 BCX0">t&#8217;s</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW169936883 BCX0"> a really </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW169936883 BCX0">good way</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW169936883 BCX0"> to </span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW169936883 BCX0">go</span><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW169936883 BCX0"> about counteracting that feeling.</span></span></span></span></p>
<p><span class="TextRun SCXW143691032 BCX0" lang="EN-GB" xml:lang="EN-GB" data-contrast="auto"><span class="NormalTextRun SCXW143691032 BCX0"><span class="EOP SCXW169936883 BCX0" data-ccp-props="{&quot;201341983&quot;:0,&quot;335559739&quot;:160,&quot;335559740&quot;:259}"> </span> </span></span><span class="EOP SCXW143691032 BCX0" data-ccp-props="{&quot;201341983&quot;:0,&quot;335559739&quot;:160,&quot;335559740&quot;:259}"> </span></p>
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							<div class="mb-6"><img decoding="async" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/LenaDrapella_Pembroke_7edit-1.jpg" alt="Emma Twyford, the first British woman to climb a 9a sport climb, sending one of the most iconic hard trad lines in the UK, The Big Issue (E9 6c) at Bosherston Head, Pembroke." /><p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">The Big Issue (E9 6c) at Bosherston Head, Pembroke. © Lena Drapella</p></div>							
																					
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p style="text-align: center;"><em>You can learn more about Yvon Chouinard&#8217;s Clean Climbing manifesto <a href="https://eu.patagonia.com/gb/en/clean-climbing/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">here</a>. For more about Emma, her incredible ascent of the Big Bang and her thoughts on issues such as Black Lives Matter, check out <a href="https://www.base-mag.com/interview-emma-twyford/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">this interview</a>.</em></p>
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		<title>The Man Cycling 1 Million Vertical Metres in a Year</title>
		<link>https://www.base-mag.com/the-man-cycling-1-million-vertical-metres-in-a-year/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Chris Hunt]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 21 Oct 2022 10:31:35 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Interview]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.base-mag.com/?p=6195</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Jack Thompson's latest challenge will see him ride the height of Everest 113 times this year, all in the name of mental health awareness]]></description>
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		<p id="breadcrumbs" class="mt-5 text-black" ><span><span><a href="https://www.base-mag.com/">Home</a></span> <span class="separator inline-block align-baseline mx-1 opacity-50"></span> <span class="breadcrumb_last" aria-current="page">Interview</span></span></p>		<h1 class="dirty-heading text-4xl md:text-h1   text-black">The Man Cycling 1 Million Vertical Metres in a Year</h1>
		<div class="text-md md:text-lg text-center mb-4 mx-auto text-black">Jack Thompson&#8217;s latest challenge will see him ride the height of Everest 113 times this year, all in the name of mental health awareness</div>		
		
			
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						<span class="block text-black">Oct 21, 2022</span>
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							<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/chris-hunt/" class="block text-normal text-black">Chris Hunt</a>
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					<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/chris-hunt/" class="h-12 w-12 md:h-20 md:w-20 inline-block bg-grey-light overflow-hidden rounded-full text-center"><img decoding="async" width="300" height="238" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/Komoot.Marketing-26-e1642097271307-300x238.jpg" class="object-cover object-center h-full w-full wp-post-image" alt="" srcset="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/Komoot.Marketing-26-e1642097271307-300x238.jpg 300w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/Komoot.Marketing-26-e1642097271307-250x198.jpg 250w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/Komoot.Marketing-26-e1642097271307.jpg 567w" sizes="(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /></a>					<div class="sm:pl-5 mx-auto sm:mx-0 text-center sm:text-left max-w-lg">
						<span class="text-black uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1">Chris Hunt</span>
						<span class="block text-sm text-black">BASE Editor and Bristol-based adventure writer with a penchant for travel by bike, interesting coastlines and adventures that end in the pub.</span>					</div>
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<p><em>Jack Thompson is no stranger to a challenge: in 2019 he<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/iberian-coast-to-coast/" target="_blank" rel="noopener"> cycled coast to coast across the Iberian Peninsula</a> (1200km) in just 56 hours, in 2020 he broke the world record for <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=asIDzVXArJc" target="_blank" rel="noopener">the most kilometres ridden in 7 days</a> (3505km) and in 2021 he rode all 21 stages of the <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NIytVoGAjFY&amp;t=34s" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Tour de France in 10 days</a>. Now, he&#8217;s on his way to riding 1 million vertical metres in a year: the equivalent of climbing Everest 113 times!</em></p>
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<p><em>To complete the 1 million, Jack aims to complete one Everest (climbing the same hill repeatedly until reaching 8,849m) a week plus an additional 2,500m of climbing every non-Everest day. </em><em>All this, he&#8217;ll do in the name of mental health awareness, with a target of raising 1 million euros for three global Mental Health awareness programs along the way. On <a href="https://www.eventbrite.com/e/velocio-launch-x-jack-ultracyclist-everesting-celebration-tickets-438885717997" target="_blank" rel="noopener">October 22nd he&#8217;ll be in London</a> to take on his 42nd Everest of the year, completing 180 hill repeats in the north of the city!</em></p>
<p><em>Ahead of his London challenge, I caught up with Jack to hear more about what it takes to climb 1 million metres and to peek into the brain of a man so hell-bent on pushing the possibilities of ultra-endurance challenges by bike.</em></p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p style="font-weight: 400;"><strong>So how did this challenge come about and how does it fit into mental health?</strong></p>
<p style="font-weight: 400;">I had this idea back in 2021 that I wanted to Everest in all 26 municipalities of Portugal and create a six month tourism piece in the process. Unfortunately, the plan fell through. By then though, I was pretty locked in on the idea of completing multiple Everests and so did some maths. I worked out that 52 Everests would give me 460,000m and then rounded up…to 1 million!</p>
<p style="font-weight: 400;">I’ve suffered from depression and mental health disorders my whole life and now being in the fortunate position to ride a bike full time, I made it my mission to do it for a larger cause. Cycling has helped me so much and so I want to give back and help those who suffer. The idea of raising €1 for every meter climbed seemed like a good but very ambitious goal and so I set my sights on trying to achieve it.</p>
<p><strong>What is it about elevation that is so significant in cycling &#8211; why measure this challenge in metres climbed rather than distance travelled?</strong></p>
<p style="font-weight: 400;">We always measure everything in distance, yet we forget the significance of elevation.<strong> </strong>The part of these challenges that I enjoy is in looking to do something that hasn’t been done before and that pushes the envelope of what’s possible, both in an attempt to push myself and grow as an athlete, but to inspire others. I’ve always loved climbing and so thought I’d spend a whole year doing it!</p>
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<blockquote><p>I’m transported to another dimension of reality. I become creative, my thought process becomes clear and I inspire myself</p></blockquote>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p style="font-weight: 400;"><strong>What does the climbing mean to you personally?</strong></p>
<p style="font-weight: 400;">Climbing for me is a form of meditation. Things happen slowly, time stops and I have the opportunity to soak up what’s actually happening around me. The people, the animals, the vegetation, the tarmac. I love it. When I pop some music on and combine that with climbing, I’m transported to another dimension of reality. I become creative, my thought process becomes clear and I inspire myself to push harder and farther.</p>
<p><strong>How does the challenge fit into the rest of the year? Presumably it’s wiping out pretty much anything else in terms of cycling?</strong></p>
<p style="font-weight: 400;">This challenge has consumed my entire year. It’s a huge sacrifice to make, but one that I’m loving. I’ve learnt so much about myself, what makes me happy, what frustrates me and various tools and tricks that I’ll use all throughout my life, not just while on the bike. In 2023, I want to talk with others and share the thought process and patterns that I’ve been able to develop.</p>
<p><strong>Climbing up and down the same hills can get pretty repetitive, what are you doing to keep things fresh?</strong></p>
<p style="font-weight: 400;">100% although I am a bit of a sucker for routine! I’m obsessive compulsive and so the repetition actually works quite nicely for me. The hot summer months were incredibly tough and so I needed to make some changes to where I was riding, just in order to hide from the sun. I’ve spent some time Everesting on the gravel which was also incredibly valuable to the mind and keeping things fresh.</p>
<p><strong>How is your body reacting to the challenge so far and what are you doing to preserve it?</strong></p>
<p style="font-weight: 400;">Touch wood, my body is really good. I haven’t been sick, I haven’t been injured and I’m generally in really good spirits. Until I get hungry!</p>
<p style="font-weight: 400;">I think sometimes people think it’s all about the riding and this year, the elevation, BUT, theres a whole lot that goes on behind the scenes that people don’t see. Monitoring my sleep, monitoring my nutrition, stretching daily, mobility daily, visits to the doctors for blood tests etc. This really is a team effort, without those that support me, it wouldn’t be possible.</p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>And you’re looking to get as many people physically involved as possible &#8211; what’s the thinking there?</strong></p>
<p style="font-weight: 400;">Yeah, like I say, I want to inspire people and want my story to be heard. The more people that get involved, the bigger the story becomes and the more people that are positively impacted. Fundraising is hard, especially as a one-man band, cycling 30+ hours a week. Having the support of others is huge and if we can raise more funds to help others, then I consider my job as an athlete a success. I genuinely want to make a difference and it takes a team to do that.</p>
<p style="font-weight: 400;"><strong>How can people follow along and get involved themselves?</strong></p>
<p style="font-weight: 400;">Jump across and follow the adventure on instagram (@jackultracyclist) or make a donation at <a href="http://jackultracyclist.com/" data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=http://jackultracyclist.com&amp;source=gmail&amp;ust=1666345072399000&amp;usg=AOvVaw37ZpJa865uvVZ31iHlSoN-">jackultracyclist.com</a> – I hope to ride with you guys somewhere, someday soon.</p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><em>On Saturday October 22nd, VIA Atelier will be celebrating Jack&#8217;s challenge with <a href="https://www.eventbrite.com/e/velocio-launch-x-jack-ultracyclist-everesting-celebration-tickets-438885717997">a free event and an evening of drinks</a>. </em><em>He is also inviting anyone who wants to, to join his Everest attempt before hand. On Saturday 22 October at 5.30, Jack will set-off to complete more than 180 repeats of Hillway rd for a total distance of 190kms. </em></p>
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		<title>A Catalyst For Change: The Neil Gresham Interview</title>
		<link>https://www.base-mag.com/a-catalyst-for-change-the-neil-gresham-interview/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Chris Hunt]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Oct 2022 12:17:09 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Interview]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.base-mag.com/?p=6052</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[We catch up with one of the UK's most historically significant and influential climbers]]></description>
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		<p id="breadcrumbs" class="mt-5 text-black" ><span><span><a href="https://www.base-mag.com/">Home</a></span> <span class="separator inline-block align-baseline mx-1 opacity-50"></span> <span class="breadcrumb_last" aria-current="page">Interview</span></span></p>		<h1 class="dirty-heading text-4xl md:text-h1   text-black">A Catalyst For Change: The Neil Gresham Interview</h1>
		<div class="text-md md:text-lg text-center mb-4 mx-auto text-black">We catch up with one of the UK&#8217;s most historically significant and influential climbers</div>		
		
			
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						<span class="text-orange uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1 sm:mb-2">Published</span>
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							<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/marc-langley/" class="block text-normal text-black">Marc Langley</a>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><em><span style="font-weight: 400;">The year 1971 was a significant one, bearing witness to some profoundly influential events across the globe, culturally and politically. Sinn Féin ended a 65-year abstentionist policy at a party conference in Dublin, <a href="https://baseballhall.org/hall-of-famers/paige-satchel" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Satchel Paige</a> was the first black league player to be elected to the</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"> Baseball</span> <span style="font-weight: 400;">Hall of Fame </span><span style="font-weight: 400;">and Edward Heath was the UK’s PM – leading a Conservative Government that steered us into joining the European Communities that then became the European Union. </span></em><em><span style="font-weight: 400;">In rock music, The Doors were singing about </span><span style="font-weight: 400;">riders on the storm,</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"> Led Zeppelin introduced </span><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iXQUu5Dti4g" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><span style="font-weight: 400;"><strong>Stairway</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Heaven</strong></span></a><span style="font-weight: 400;"> to the world, and Pink Floyd played their subversively <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pink_Floyd:_Live_at_Pompeii" target="_blank" rel="noopener">crowdless gig in Pompeii</a> where the music emphasised the scale and beauty of the natural environment. Music and pop culture seemed to galvanise a generation more awake to alternative futures, driven by a greater sense of self with a hunger for more political engagement. Change was in the air.</span></em></p>
<p><em><span style="font-weight: 400;">1971 also marked the birth of one the UK’s most historically significant climbers. Neil Gresham has influenced the world’s climbing scene for more than 35 years, with seemingly no signs of slowing down. With a first ascent of </span><strong><a href="https://www.climbing.com/news/neil-gresham-fa-lexicon-e11-repeated-steve-mcclure/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Lexicon</a></strong><span style="font-weight: 400;"> – graded E11, and a plethora of significant repeats including </span><span style="font-weight: 400;">Indian Face</span><span style="font-weight: 400;">, </span><span style="font-weight: 400;">Equilibrium</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"> and </span><span style="font-weight: 400;">Meshuga</span><span style="font-weight: 400;">. It is perhaps no surprise that his influence has been so far reaching, born into an epoch which nourished such significant cultural and political change. </span></em></p>
<p><em><span style="font-weight: 400;">I caught up with Neil in Kendal, a place we both now call home. I wanted to seek insight into one of the world’s living climbing legends and understand how life, and its changes, have played out for Neil. During our time together I learnt that we all bear the witness marks of our time in the universe and that some are more visible than others. Most importantly though, not all scars are bad – they just serve to remind us that we are alive and moving forward with the arrow of time. </span></em></p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><b>So,</b><b><i> Lexicon</i></b><b>, tell me about that. </b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">I certainly couldn’t have predicted the amount of interest in the route so quickly after completing it, that’s for sure. I knew <a href="https://www.base-mag.com/what-it-means-to-be-a-climber-in-the-age-of-covid-19/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Steve McClure</a> was super keen to get straight on it after but I absolutely didn’t foresee the likes of Dave MacLeod, Neil Mawson, Craig Matheson, and Franco Cookson paying such interest. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Reflecting back, I wonder if the post-Olympic hangover played its part? Indoor climbing being as popular as it is and its relationship with Generation Z, I think outdoor climbers wanted to</span> <span style="font-weight: 400;">rise up</span> <span style="font-weight: 400;">and be counted riding the post-lockdown zeitgeist. I heard people talking about indoor climbing – how it’s all well and good but when is the channel going to change? I did feel like the tide was being held back somewhat, everyone was waiting for the Olympics which didn’t go entirely to plan, then there was a bit of clamour surrounding the format with people saying it was an anticlimax. Then suddenly boom, there was this new hard, and dare I say cutting-edge trad route on Pavey Ark – so for me it felt like a personal antidote to the boom of indoor climbing and recent global affairs. </span></p>
<p><b>On the surface it seems the Lake District is all climbed out. Would you agree with this?</b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">You have to cut between the hearsay and what you see with your own eyes. For me it was about going out and seeing for myself. Sure enough, I’ve heard soundbites singing the narrative that all the obvious lines have been done and what’s left are just fillers – contrived gaps between already established routes or totally blank protection devoid death walls. The truth I think is somewhere in the middle. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">If we use </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Lexicon</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> as an example, it is the super </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">direttissima</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> on the crag, but it shares some climbing with another route in the middle section. Is that to say it’s not worth doing? The likes of <a href="https://www.davemacleod.com/blog/lexiconvideo" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Dave Macleod</a> and Steve McClure certainly didn’t think so. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Another example would be </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">If 6 was 9</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> at Iron Crag, realising the original route only goes two thirds of the way up the crag with a huge headwall which hadn’t been climbed was a ludicrously obvious feature to me. I agree it was still a new finish to another route but with that came significant amounts of additional climbing. It goes without saying that everyone is going to have their own opinions on whether they think something new like </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Lexicon</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> or </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Final Score</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> is worth climbing, but if you look at every other popular crag in the UK like Malham or Raven Tor for example, routes are getting extended all the time. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">There has been a bit of resistance regarding some of the new routing I have done. A feeling of indignation and this perception that I’m the first person to do what I have done, which to me is just utter nonsense. It’s always the case that the obvious lines of weakness get climbed first with things evolving afterwards with harder starts or the more direct lines. I think this is the </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">somewhere-in-the -middle</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> I referred to earlier, not super independent lines or features but more direct lines to already well established routes. </span></p>
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<blockquote><p>If you look historically at all our best trad climbers, they are a bunch of total lunatics, oddball misfits somewhat unhinged and unpredictable</p></blockquote>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><b>There’s a theory that as you get older your appetite for risk declines. Having just established a new E11 at 50, almost 28 years after climbing the </b><a href="https://climbing-history.org/climb/601/indian-face" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><b><i>Indian Face</i></b></a><b>, I’m curious to know how this theory plays out on you… how has your appetite towards risk evolved?</b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">To answer this question in its broader sense it’s probably worth pointing out that in my early teens I was quite timid. I was trad climbing then but I built my way up through the grades quite steadily. I certainly wasn’t pushing the envelope – I was quite cautious. But then, after a turn of events aged 24 I ended up climbing </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Indian Face</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> which triggered a whole decade of big number trad routes, some of which were on-sights up to around E7 but mostly head pointing on E9(s) and an E10. It was a sustained period where I was definitely pushing the envelope. After about a decade of climbing right on the edge, I basically just called time. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">If I kept going at the rate I was, the law of averages would indicate that things probably</span> <span style="font-weight: 400;">wouldn’t work out so well for me. So instead, I started heading out on more adventurous trips and climbing whatever style I came across &#8211;  sport, trad deep water solo, I didn’t really care. Then I moved even further away from the riskier end of climbing and dedicated nearly all my time to sport climbing. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">In my early twenties I had climbed 8b+ but I came back to sport in my late 40s and climbed 8b+ again, then 8c and a new 8c+ at Malham which I called </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Sabotage</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;">. I certainly didn’t predict a return to traditional climbing at all but then I moved to the Lake District and things changed. I started exploring my new backyard and seeing new route potential. Quite frankly, I became incapable of walking away from these obvious lines which looked like some of the juiciest lines I had seen. And so I began climbing hard trad again starting with a direct finish to </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Fear of Failure</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> (E8) at Dove Crag, which I called </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Fearless</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> (E9); this whetted my appetite for sure and I soon set out and established </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Final Score</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> (E10) the direct finish to </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">If 6 was 9</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> further embedding my inability to walk away from these lines I had spotted. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">However, after I climbed the new line of Dove Crag it really started to sink in that my family’s financial dependency lay entirely on me – I did start to question </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">should actually being doing this? </span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;">I realised that I had pushed my sport grade up significantly and I had all the previous trad climbing experience to fall back on, plus my psychological strength, which I feel has always played a much more prominent role in my climbing than my physical strength. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Bizarrely, </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Fearless</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> on Dove Crag was probably the most dangerous of the routes I have done in the last three or four years; if you mess the start of that up there is no ambiguity about what will happen to you. However with </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Final Score</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;">, the gear might hold on</span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> If 6 was 9</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> but who knows? If it does then it’s as safe as a sport route but if it doesn&#8217;t then you’re in some serious shit. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">With </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Lexicon</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> there was the classic backlash from the armchair checkers saying it is safe, so how can it be E11? For starters none of them had even been on it! It was safe to fall off with maybe the exception of the last two moves. This was based on the knowledge that the gear is bomber. But it is a massive fall, so with the included rope-stretch you would come very close to the ground. </span></p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Despite that, I convinced myself that you wouldn’t actually hit the deck, even if you fell the entire 90ft of the crag. I had done the usual bag fall tests, measured the distance etc and I genuinely felt confident with the aforementioned conviction. Steve McClure however was not convinced. When I first took him to take a look, he immediately looked at the slope at the bottom of the route. I wasn’t sure why he was looking at this at first, he explained after that he genuinely thought you might deck if you come off higher up. I realised that in fact I knew this all along but had shut this proposition from my mind in order to justify going for the send.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Subsequently having belayed Steve on it and seeing him come so close to decking after a <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O7_MFQfmGFg" target="_blank" rel="noopener">monster fall</a> with two moves still to go. I know now that a ground fall could well be likely unless you get your belay system exactly right and have a lot of luck on your side. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Reflecting more critically on my climbing now, compared to the</span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> Indian Face</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> era. Back then I would climb any type of route regardless of whether they were chop routes or not – the risk factor was almost certainly higher back then. But these recent trad routes are much more like hard trad-sport hybrids. If you ask Steve McClure the same question he’ll tell you that being a dad, he’s not wanting to climb things like </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Meshuga</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> or </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Indian Face</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;">. He is much more interested in routes that effectively enable him to fuse his sport climbing ability with trad; and to be honest that’s the way I see </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Final Score</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> and </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Lexicon</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> – not safe but spicy, the gear might rip but you shouldn’t deck. I feel now I’m a more calculated climber building in a much higher safety threshold, whilst simultaneously drawing on 25 years of experience. </span></p>
<p><b>In 1993 your girlfriend Rachel Farmer died unexpectedly and in 1995 you climbed the </b><b><i>Indian Face</i></b><b>. I’m curious to learn if there is a correlation to the dramatic change here, given your trad climbing experience prior to this was way below the grade of </b><b><i>Indian Face</i></b><b>?</b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">You are absolutely right to draw this distinction. Losing Rachel and the whole experience derailed me like nothing I’d experienced before or since – I was so lost after that. I was 21 and living in Sheffield immersed in the sport climbing obsessed scene, a scene which was very much my entire world. I’ve subsequently learned that the body can become traumatised by emotional injury, we don’t always notice the true effects. </span></p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Very quickly after Rachel died, my elbows started packing up, despite never really feeling like I was overtraining. I was probably in a state of shock. All I knew was that I couldn’t continue in that Sheffield scene. Basically, all my mates were training in the cellars and climbing at Raven Tor, so I fled Sheffield and moved to North Wales. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">After bumbling around for a bit, I got a job in Cotswolds in Betws-y-Coed and that’s when I met Nick Dixon and the subsequent zeitgeist began. Basically he was fishing for a belay on</span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> Indian Face</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> but because he’s a super nice guy, rather than just dragging me up to Cloggy all the time for his own benefit, he encouraged me to get on it. Initially I was dismissive but then things played out in this bizarre fatalistic way, and I found myself playing a very high stakes game. It wasn’t a suicide mission or a death wish, I know that much. It was more complicated and nuanced than that. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">I don’t think I’ll ever understand the narrative I was experiencing back then. I remember thinking that </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Indian Face</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> would create a new chapter in my life and it became this cathartic sounding board for the bereavement process. Sure enough, if that exercise had gone wrong I would have been none the wiser because I wouldn’t have survived to benefit from it, but it went well and I did the route. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Things really changed for me after</span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> Indian Face</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;">. I still had elbow tendonitis when I climbed it but it suddenly disappeared. Strange, now I’m recounting that 25 years later. One thing that did stand out for me after climbing </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Indian Face</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> was that I finally started looking forward with my life rather than back to that event. It was all very much sliding doors, meeting Nick, being injured and stuck in a bit of a vacuum, and it was all very weird the way it played out. There was no doubt that climbing </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Indian Face</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> was a way of exorcising the demons which resided in my subconscious as a consequence of losing Rachel.</span></p>
<p><b>As you have aged do you feel differently about climbing </b><b><i>Indian Face</i></b><b> and its relationship to Rachel? </b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Even now there</span> <span style="font-weight: 400;">has always been an element of guilt about pursuing that goal. It was a fairly selfish endeavour and as an inward looking young man, I was feeling disillusioned about what had happened. I wasn’t thinking about my parents or my friends, I was just existing inside this bubble. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">When I think about that now, if it had that gone wrong, then that would have been another sad</span> <span style="font-weight: 400;">waste of life. I can look back and reflect on the</span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> Indian Face</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> in a more positive way now, despite continuing to climb dangerous routes like </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Meshuga</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> and </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Equilibrium</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> afterwards, I was no longer approaching them with the same fatalistic outlook. I was climbing those routes to live and for the sole joy of climbing and no longer possessing the attitude of ‘w</span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">ell let’s just see how it goes’</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;">. </span></p>
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							<div class="mb-6"><img decoding="async" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/Niel-Gresham-Photo-Credit-Ian-Parnell-Sabotage-8c-1248x1879.jpg" alt="" /><p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">© Ian Parnell</p></div>							
														<div class="text-grey-dark"><blockquote><p>I realised then that the desire to live was actually pretty huge after all, and there I was, alone on that huge wall, fighting for my life</p></blockquote>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><span style="font-weight: 400;">That’s not to say that any climber who climbs a route like </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Indian Face</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> is being selfish, this feeling of guilt and selfishness pertains to my own feelings at the time, which related to me losing Rachel. I remember thinking this ridiculous idea that I had climbed 8b sport and the </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Indian Face</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> is only 7b so I had this huge physical margin. I had climbed winter routes on Ben Nevis with no protection and run the rope out for over 50 metres, so at least there is some gear on </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Indian Face</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;">. I’d developed the boldness from winter climbing and the physical resilience of sport climbing, so if I just put the two together, it would be alright! However, this was totally flawed logic and it quickly unravelled as I climbed the route. The aforementioned bubble burst and I was left wondering, </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">what the hell am I doing here?</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">I realised then that the desire to live was actually pretty huge after all, and there I was, alone on that huge wall, fighting for my life. The trouble with </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Indian Face</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> is you can’t just shut your eyes, take a breath and sprint for the top like you can on a short spicy grit route, you are on this climb for the long haul.</span></p>
<p><b>The face of climbing is changing at an unprecedented pace. It’s no longer just an outlet for the anarchists and social introverts but a much more mainstream sport. How do you think this explosion in climbing is playing out, specifically regarding traditional climbing? </b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">A really good friend of mine,<a href="https://factortwo.co.uk/no-more-heroes-patch-hammond" target="_blank" rel="noopener"> Patch Hammond</a>, likened climbing to snooker – specifically trad climbing. Patch is an intellectual, so I was curious to see how he was going to back this observation up. He said the Chinese have decided that they want to dominate at snooker and consequently they have thrown billions at it, opening up snooker academies and investing in psychology coaches, similar to the British Cycling approach – but they are not winning. Whereas, if you look at all the British snooker players they all come out of working men&#8217;s clubs and pubs, drinking, fighting, smoking with a bit of grit and anarchy about them. That’s trad climbing, with sport climbing you can sort of do it with the academy approach, but there is a sort of X-factor to trad. </span></p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><div id="attachment_6058" style="width: 1034px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-6058" class="wp-image-6058 size-large" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/Gresham-Portrait-Photos-2-of-3-1024x681.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="681" srcset="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/Gresham-Portrait-Photos-2-of-3-1024x681.jpg 1024w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/Gresham-Portrait-Photos-2-of-3-300x200.jpg 300w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/Gresham-Portrait-Photos-2-of-3-768x511.jpg 768w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/Gresham-Portrait-Photos-2-of-3-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/Gresham-Portrait-Photos-2-of-3-2048x1363.jpg 2048w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/Gresham-Portrait-Photos-2-of-3-1248x830.jpg 1248w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/Gresham-Portrait-Photos-2-of-3-1800x1198.jpg 1800w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/Gresham-Portrait-Photos-2-of-3-700x466.jpg 700w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/Gresham-Portrait-Photos-2-of-3-250x166.jpg 250w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /><p id="caption-attachment-6058" class="wp-caption-text">© Marc Langley</p></div>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">If you look historically at all our best trad climbers, they are a bunch of total lunatics, oddball misfits somewhat unhinged and unpredictable. Even in the modern era we have the likes of Franco Cookson, Robbie Phillips and Anna Taylor to name a few. They are all pretty unusual, colourful people with big personalities. I actually think there is a lot of truth in what Patch said. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">The modern generation of climbers seem a bit pampered to me, and we see quite a lot of grumbling online about some of these amazing modern facilities. It makes me laugh when I remember how we used to scavenge mangey, flea-bitten mattresses from skips to put in our damp, mould-infested cellars and then climb on splintery home-made holds under a flickering fluorescent strip-light. I can’t help but wonder if the chasm is too big to make the jump from the world of gourmet coffee and designer volumes onto a loose, vegetated sea cliff.</span></p>
<p><b>How does this current phase in your climbing compare to your early career? Do you feel there is more to come?</b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">There are no more routes like </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Lexicon</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> to come from me despite feeling like I could climb the equivalent or maybe even harder. I was recently with Craig Matheson who has just climbed </span><strong><a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/first_ascent_of_hard_cheese_e10_7a_for_craig_matheson-72926" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><i>Hard Cheese</i></a></strong><span style="font-weight: 400;"><strong>,</strong> which is the other joint hardest route in the Lakes. </span></p>
<blockquote><p>There was no doubt that climbing <i>Indian Face</i> was a way of exorcising the demons which resided in my subconscious</p></blockquote>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Craig is younger than me and you can see he is on this steep curve and really going places. I feel like I’ve been on that curve for a long time now. I think you could die an unhappy person if you constantly think you haven’t climbed hard enough and need to keep driving forward. There was this element of dissatisfaction that kept driving me forward.I think I needed that in order to really push my limits – but not now at this current phase in my life. If you look at other climbers who are just cruising, without obsessing about goals, then I guess they are having more fun in the conventional and immediate sense.</span></p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Don’t get me wrong, I absolutely loved doing </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Lexicon</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> but this commitment came with a fair amount of sacrifice. I was very much in my own world, analysing every aspect of my performance in pursuit of marginal gains. In some ways it can feel a bit dehumanising, operating like some sort of highly-tuned performance car and I don’t want to live my whole life like that anymore. I want to spend more time with my family and close friends. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">I have made a conscious decision now to feel happy and satisfied with </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Lexicon</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> and this hit me like a steam train when I topped out. I knew I had totally rinsed the tank and it was time to start a new chapter of sorts. </span></p>
<p><b>In the past three years you have put up some significant new hard routes. So what’s next? </b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">After </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Lexicon</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;">, I’ll be totally satisfied to be one of those 50-something-hustlers, who can still rock up to Malham or Kilnsey and climb middle 8 routes or onsight E6 trad. I still want to climb at a solid level but not go for these mega projects that are all consuming. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">My family has been amazingly supportive throughout the big projects, so now, taking my daughter swimming or my son to Cubs feels like a higher priority than training. In my heart I’m an all-rounder. I really like ice-climbing for example, but I had to give it up when training for projects like </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Sabotage</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> and </span><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Lexicon</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;">. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">I’m looking forward to rediscovering the variety within climbing and also rekindling the friendships, which to an extent are sacrificed when you&#8217;re striving so hard towards one dedicated goal. So, it’s not the end but also it is the end of one element of my climbing if that makes sense. </span></p>
<p><em>This interview first appeared in issue 08 of BASE magazine, in summer 2022. <a href="https://www.base-mag.com/product/base-annual-magazine-subscription/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Subscribe</a> to get all copies delivered direct to your door for FREE or select one off <a href="https://www.base-mag.com/free-magazine/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">back-issues here</a>. Check out more interviews with some of the most interesting characters in adventure today<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/interview/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">, here.</a></em></p>
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		<title>The Ultimate Three Peaks Three Lakes Challenge</title>
		<link>https://www.base-mag.com/the-ultimate-three-peaks-three-lakes-challenge/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Chris Hunt]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 19 Aug 2022 14:19:16 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Interview]]></category>
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					<description><![CDATA[Andrea Mason just swam Britain's three longest lakes and climbed its three highest peaks cycling between them all in 4 days]]></description>
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		<p id="breadcrumbs" class="mt-5 text-black" ><span><span><a href="https://www.base-mag.com/">Home</a></span> <span class="separator inline-block align-baseline mx-1 opacity-50"></span> <span class="breadcrumb_last" aria-current="page">Interview</span></span></p>		<h1 class="dirty-heading text-4xl md:text-h1   text-black">The Ultimate Three Peaks Three Lakes Challenge</h1>
		<div class="text-md md:text-lg text-center mb-4 mx-auto text-black">Andrea Mason just swam Britain&#8217;s three longest lakes and climbed its three highest peaks cycling between them all in 4 days</div>		
		
			
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						<span class="text-black uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1">Chris Hunt</span>
						<span class="block text-sm text-black">BASE Editor and Bristol-based adventure writer with a penchant for travel by bike, interesting coastlines and adventures that end in the pub.</span>					</div>
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<p class="title-heading-center" data-fontsize="40" data-lineheight="48"><em>At 6am on the 25th of July, Andrea Mason waded into the waters of Lake Bala in Wales to begin her latest challenge: to swim the longest lakes in Wales, England and Scotland. Not just that though, she&#8217;d be cycling between each of them adding in a summit of each of the country&#8217;s highest peaks on route. Thats 66km of swimming, 812km by bike and 42km on foot with 3408m of elevation. For context, that is swimming almost double the English Channel, cycling 20 Olympic distance triathlon legs and running the London Marathon with an added thousand flights of stairs along the way. Just for added spice she set out to do it all in under five days. I caught up with Andrea a few days into her recovery to find out the whys and the hows of this brutal challenge.</em></p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>So tell us about the project &#8211; what inspired this challenge in the first place?</strong></p>
<p>I just love pain and no sleep! [laughs]. No, my <a href="https://seatosummitextreme.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Sea To Summit Extreme</a> journey started in 2017. I had just had major surgery and been diagnosed with cervical cancer. I decided there and then that I wanted to do something crazy that would give me a goal to focus on and help me recover. I didn’t want it to be something that had ever been done before. I wanted it to be something that would hopefully help build a platform that I could use to promote awareness and encourage people to talk about menstrual health.</p>
<p>This UK challenge, which consisted of swimming the 3 longest lakes in Wales, England and Scotland, running the 3 peaks and cycling in between, was supposed to be my second challenge in 2020, but unfortunately Covid put a stop to that. I completed it in just 4 days, 7 hours and 58minutes. Yes…the minutes are important!</p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><blockquote><p>I had just had major surgery and been diagnosed with cervical cancer. I decided there and then that I wanted to do something crazy</p></blockquote>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>What’s your background in endurance &#8211; have you done anything like this before?</strong></p>
<p>I have always been ‘sporty.’ I was a competitive pool swimmer as a child and in my late 20s, I threw myself straight into the deep end of triathlon with an Ironman. Most people would start with a sprint triathlon just to see if they liked it first. Turns out I didn’t like it, not one bit and swore I would never do anything like it again! But here I am, 12 years later doing even more crazy stuff and absolutely loving it. In 2019, I <a href="https://seatosummitextreme.com/2019-challenge/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">swam across the English Channel, cycled 900km to Chamonix and climbed Mt Blanc,</a> all in just 4 days 20 hours.</p>
<p>In 2020, I had to come up with a last minute challenge to replace my planned UK challenge &#8211; so<a href="https://seatosummitextreme.com/2020-s2s/" target="_blank" rel="noopener"> I swam the 38km circumference of Lac Annecy, road the 330km Tour Du Mt Blanc and then ran the infamous Ultra Trail Mont Blanc,</a> again all in just under 5 days. In 2021 I <a href="https://seatosummitextreme.com/2021-sa/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">swam 35km across the shark infested waters of False Bay in South Africa, rode 360km to the Kleine Karoo and climbed the tallest mountain peak in the Western Cape</a>, all in just under 48 hours. So although I don’t like to call myself an ultra or endurance athlete (slight imposter syndrome issue), it’s safe to say my CV confirms otherwise.</p>
<p><strong>Endurance challenges like this are so much more than physical capability &#8211; how much did the mental battle come into play on this? </strong></p>
<p>I couldn’t agree more.  Of course you have to put a lot of hard work into ensuring your body is ready for the challenge, but when it comes to the actual execution, it all comes down to mental capability! There were so many times that I wanted to quit, but I just kept telling myself that this feeling and the pain was temporary. If I quit that feeling of pain would last for a lifetime!</p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>Did you have a strategy for managing your highs and lows?</strong></p>
<p>Yes, I acknowledge that they are going to happen and make myself acutely aware that neither are good! At least not until the high at the end. During the lows I force myself to concentrate on just 30 minutes at a time, just keep putting one arm or leg in front of the other for the next half an hour. During the highs, I try very hard to snap myself out of it and tell myself that it is going to be short lived and will be followed by a low!</p>
<p>All in all, I try very hard to maintain a steady emotional state. I am a videographers nightmare as there is very rarely any drama!</p>
<p><strong>What was the support like? Tell me about the team that helped you get there.</strong></p>
<p>I might be the one who gets to the top of that mountain, but I sure as heck don’t and couldn’t do it alone. I have an incredible support team, too many to call out by name. But it’s safe to say I actually have the easy job, I just have to keep going! They all have vital roles, they are on my schedule with very little sleep and somehow still remain positive throughout the entire duration. It is their success as much as mine.</p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><blockquote><p>I might be the one who gets to the top of that mountain, but I sure as heck don’t and couldn’t do it alone</p></blockquote>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>How much preparation did you do going into this &#8211; what did you do and and how did it help?</strong></p>
<p>I’m always training, so have a very good endurance base. Six months out from a challenge I will adapt my training slightly, increasing time in cold water and doing back to back long sessions. I try very hard to balance the training and don’t over train. I think many people assume I do 1000s of miles a week, but reality is I try to train smart. I&#8217;m big believer that increasing workload isn’t always the smartest way to train. I also have a full time job and run<a href="https://www.instagram.com/ladytalkmatters/" target="_blank" rel="noopener"> a charity</a>, so it’s definitely a balancing act!</p>
<p><strong>How did your body cope along the way &#8211; any near bail out moments or particular wobbles along the way?</strong></p>
<p>Everyone says I make it look easy, but it most definitely isn’t and there are many wobbles along the way! I think if anyone tried to tell you they did something like this without body issues or wobbles, they would be lying! It definitely sets the pain gate theory into motion, one pain is just replaced by another.</p>
<p><strong>What the hell did you eat to get you through that kind of calorie consumption?</strong></p>
<p>I&#8217;m a sports nutritionists nightmare! If you scroll through <a href="https://www.instagram.com/sea_to_summit_extreme/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">my social media feeds</a>, you will see that I eat anything. I always start off with a vague plan and good intentions, but it just becomes a matter of getting the calories in – it’s the best rolling buffet ever. I&#8217;m well known for feasting on chicken nuggets, although this year something went horribly wrong. I was craving fruit!</p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>How does it feel now &#8211; how is the recovery going, what&#8217;s the approach?</strong></p>
<p>It took a few days for the tiredness to set in. I think I was running off adrenaline the first couple of days after I finished, but then it hit me pretty hard. My body just wanted food and sleep – so that’s what I gave it. This week I’m slowly starting to exercise again, but nothing hectic, just very steady state and short.</p>
<p>This challenge was definitely the hardest for me. I wasn’t 100% sure I could do it, let alone smash my target of five days. So for the first time I can honestly say I am proud of myself. It really is incredible what the human body can do if we put our minds to it.</p>
<p><strong>What’s next &#8211; do you have plans for another epic like this or are you taking some serious time out first?</strong></p>
<p>I always have plans! [laughs] I’d like to do a Sea to Summit challenge on every continent, menstrual health is a taboo subject around the globe and I want to keep doing my bit to change this!</p>
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		<title>Summit to City</title>
		<link>https://www.base-mag.com/summit-to-city-kanchenjunga-to-kathmandu/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Chris Hunt]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 27 Jul 2022 13:36:44 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Interview]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.base-mag.com/?p=5394</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[An audacious expedition to climb Kanchenjunga and set the fastest-known-time along the Great Himalayan Trail]]></description>
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		<p id="breadcrumbs" class="mt-5 text-black" ><span><span><a href="https://www.base-mag.com/">Home</a></span> <span class="separator inline-block align-baseline mx-1 opacity-50"></span> <span class="breadcrumb_last" aria-current="page">Interview</span></span></p>		<h1 class="dirty-heading text-4xl md:text-h1   text-black">Summit to City</h1>
		<div class="text-md md:text-lg text-center mb-4 mx-auto text-black">An audacious expedition to climb Kanchenjunga and set the fastest-known-time along the Great Himalayan Trail</div>		
		
			
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						<span class="block text-black">Jul 27, 2022</span>
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							<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/ilona-cabral/" class="block text-normal text-black">Ilona Cabral</a>
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					<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/ilona-cabral/" class="h-12 w-12 md:h-20 md:w-20 inline-block bg-grey-light overflow-hidden rounded-full text-center"><img decoding="async" width="225" height="300" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/300099501_738801630510126_2856073385787307543_n-225x300.jpg" class="object-cover object-center h-full w-full wp-post-image" alt="" srcset="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/300099501_738801630510126_2856073385787307543_n-225x300.jpg 225w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/300099501_738801630510126_2856073385787307543_n-188x250.jpg 188w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/300099501_738801630510126_2856073385787307543_n.jpg 576w" sizes="(max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px" /></a>					<div class="sm:pl-5 mx-auto sm:mx-0 text-center sm:text-left max-w-lg">
						<span class="text-black uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1">Ilona Cabral</span>
						<span class="block text-sm text-black">Ilona is a passionate adventurer who is always ready to take on a new challenge. From 9 to 5 she encourages others to step outside their comfort zone in her role at Go Ape and, from 5 to 9, is most likely wild swimming, running or climbing. Ilona is also a freelance journalist specialising in the subject of health and wellbeing.</span>					</div>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><em><span style="font-weight: 400;">Reaching the summit of the world&#8217;s third highest mountain is no mean feat for some of the most hard-core mountaineers, but for British explorer, Rupert Jones-Warner, the top of Kanchenjunga was only the beginning of 695-mile Himalayan expedition. </span></em></p>
<p><em><span style="font-weight: 400;">Rupert is no stranger to grand expeditions and several fortunate (and unfortunate) factors led to this adventure. Like many people the pandemic interrupted Rupert’s plans &#8211; only his plans were to complete a double ascent of Everest. </span><span style="font-weight: 400;">Incidentally, COVID led Rupert to a new passion, trail running. Then, when he met author and Fastest Known Time (FKT) runner <a href="https://www.lizzyhawker.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Lizzy Hawker</a> during the <a href="https://www.ultratourmonterosa.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Ultra Tour Monte Rosa</a>, he was inspired to combine his two passions and set his own FKT on a unique Himalayan expedition.  </span></em></p>
<p><em><span style="font-weight: 400;">Over an 8-week period Rupert set out to complete a 695-mile journey, which incorporated a range of disciplines including high-altitude mountaineering, trekking and ultra-running through some of the most beautiful and demanding environments on the planet. </span><span style="font-weight: 400;">The expedition was set up into three phases: The first phase was the ascent of<a href="https://indianexpress.com/article/explained/explained-why-climbing-mount-kanchenjunga-is-still-a-challenge-for-those-who-have-scaled-everest-5734121/" target="_blank" rel="noopener"> Kanchenjunga.</a> Phase 2 was the massive journey on foot from the summit, back to basecamp, through the Himalayas and then on to Everest basecamp. The final phase (Phase 3) was the journey from Everest and back to Kathmandu. </span></em></p>
<p><em><span style="font-weight: 400;">I caught up with Rupert to hear more about this mammoth expedition, which took him through freezing temperatures in the ‘death zone’ and extreme heat where he faced monkeys, snakes, leeches, giant insects, dehydration, rope bridges and dangerous river crossings.</span></em></p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><b>Let’s start at the end, you aimed to complete the expedition in 8 weeks, how long did it take in reality? </b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">The expedition from the summit took 518hours, 53 minutes and 43 seconds (approximately 3 weeks) but the whole expedition, including the initial climb, took almost two months. According to my GPS watch, I clocked 1,119km (695miles), with 31,117m of ascent and 35,145m descent. That’s the equivalent of walking from London to Edinburgh and back and climbing the Shard 100 times! </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">This expedition felt unlike any other I had experienced before. You’re normally almost done when you reach the summit of a mountain, but when we made it to the peak of Kanchenjunga, I knew, the greatest challenges still lay ahead. How long the next phase would take was completely unknown to me at this point.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">I was expecting to move a lot faster once I left the mountain behind. The route I had originally planned on <a href="https://fatmap.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Fatmap</a> would have been roughly 330 miles, I thought I could do this in little over a week, but with some last-minute local knowledge I had to change my route.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">I was hoping to get over a high pass near <a href="https://www.base-mag.com/first-all-black-team-reaches-everest-summit/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Everest</a> which would have made the route a lot shorter, but it was impassable without mountaineering gear. This meant I was forced to rewrite my route and instead I headed south, navigating off my map. Fortunately, I was told this the day before I made my journey to Kanchenjunga! When I finally stumbled into Kathmandu my watch said I had travelled double what I had originally planned!</span></p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><b>How did you handle the distance and the altitude? </b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Not easily, I didn’t acclimatise as well as I have done on previous expeditions on mountains such as Everest and Annapurna. This one felt like I was stuck in a gear that I couldn’t get out of and felt very uncomfortable and slow. This was not hugely surprising as we went from sea level to summit in under a month (most big expeditions on 8,000ers can exceed 2 months in total). </span></p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><blockquote><p><span style="font-weight: 400;">After 12 hours ascending 1400m on steep ice, with freezing temperatures from top camp and no food and drink, the celebratory Percy Pigs at the top were just about the best thing i’ve ever tasted. </span><span style="font-weight: 400;"> I was almost more excited for them than the view from 8586m.</span></p></blockquote>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><span style="font-weight: 400;">We summited Kanchenjunga on the 12th May and there were points I did wonder whether we would make it. Everyone was exhausted after almost a month of climbing, but the need to get to the summit just so I could start my project kept me going. Honestly, when we reached the summit, my main thought was that this is just the start. That is where I started the stopwatch for the <a href="https://www.base-mag.com/british-explorer-sets-off-on-record-breaking-summit-to-city-expedition/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Summit to City FKT</a>. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">After 12 hours ascending 1400m on steep ice, with freezing temperatures from top camp and no food and drink, the celebratory Percy Pigs at the top were just about the best thing i’ve ever tasted. </span><span style="font-weight: 400;">I was almost more excited for them than the view from 8586m.</span></p>
<p><b>How did it feel transition from climbing to trail running? </b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">The mountain phase and the running phase couldn’t have been more different. One day I was at the base of a mountain on a glacier, 24 hours later I was in wet, humid jungle pulling leeches from all over my body. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">When we returned to basecamp from the summit it felt emotional to say goodbye to the team, with whom I had lived alongside for over a month and shared such an incredible experience. They left in a helicopter and flew off down the Valley and out of eyesight. It felt incredibly lonely, not helped by the fact it was my birthday! </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Leaving the majority of my gear with them I set off with only my 35 litre rucksack and soon the icy, glacial, mountainous scenery transitioned to a super-hot humid jungle teeming with wildlife. It felt like a massive jump both physically and mentally.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Anyone who has spent time at serious altitude will know how much your body depreciates after a big expedition. The body has been malnourished, it’s fatigued and the muscles breakdown, so setting straight out on a FKT through the foothills of the Himalayas, carrying more weight than I would have liked, was daunting to say the least. I had no idea how my body was going to cope taking on such a big challenge. I must admit, I wasn’t sure whether I would be able to complete it, I certainly had no idea it was going to take almost three weeks non-stop!</span></p>
<p><b>Did the experience meet your expectations?</b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Despite extensive research, <a href="https://www.greathimalayatrail.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">the Great Himalayan Trail</a> was not quite what I expected, more like a Great Himalayan very vague path! Using my GPS, maps and a decent amount of guesswork, I found my way along the winding trail through incredibly tough but beautiful and remote landscapes.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">I have been to the Himalayas multiple times but, I had never run there before and I hadn’t been as far east as Kanchenjunga. This meant it was hard to gauge the terrain and what to expect in terms of temperatures, terrain, shelter, food etc,so I overpacked.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">I had wet and dry kit, a sleeping system, a first aid kit, food rations, GPS, map and compass, warm kit, basic wash kit, electronics (cameras, chargers and battery packs). Then, when you add several litres of water and rations, the weight of your pack piles on and it had a massive impact on the speed I was travelling. </span></p>
<p><b>What were some of the less glamorous moments? </b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">I stayed wherever I could along the trail, sometimes it was teahouses, sometimes it was strangers floors but the repetitive journey cycle of trekking felt quite consuming at points. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">It was hard not knowing where or when your next meal was, where you would next be able to find a drink or where you would rest that night. For most of the journey I would have one meal a day and the rest was topped up with snacks I could find. Often it was small packs of biscuits I bought on the trail. It was a relief to meet with my brother, Will, and my partner Lucy, at Everest basecamp after about 11-12 days, where we continued the journey together.</span></p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><b>How did it feel to complete the expedition?</b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">We all arrived at Kathmandu on 6th June at nearly 1am. I thought I’d be jubilant to reach the finish line, but we had just about enough energy to take a photo by the ‘Welcome to Kathmandu’ sign before we set off in search of a new destination, anywhere that might sell food! </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Despite spending two months wondering whether we would make it to this point, reaching Kathmandu was a massive anti-climax. We were exhausted, hungry and emotional, our bodies broken. There was no crowd waiting for us at the finish line like in a race. It was just a race against ourselves. Our biggest challenges now felt mundane: <em>where could we get a taxi to the hotel? Did we have enough money for a taxi? Where was a cash machine? </em></span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Re-joining the ‘real world’ was as much a shock to the system as leaving it behind had been. You appreciate the small conveniences of modern life: like access to food whenever you need it; cold drinks; knowing where you are going to sleep at night. However, the little challenges, like struggling to check into the hotel now felt as enormous as a 100-mile run.</span></p>
<p><b>Who helped make this expedition possible? </b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Aside from the sponsors, friends and family that supported me throughout the expedition, the major player in making this a success was the people of Nepal. The team on Kanchenjunga, the guides and the many people I met along the journey. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">If I was in the middle of nowhere or in a major town, the people of Nepal were incredibly welcoming and would go out of their way to help with food, water, directions and often somewhere to sleep. Too many times I was caught out without shelter or food and water (or even lost) and help seemed to come out of nowhere. If I hadn’t had this support I would probably be completely lost, still trying to find my way back from Basecamp.</span></p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><blockquote><p><span style="font-weight: 400;">The Great Himalayan trail was not quite what I expected, more like a Great Himalayan very vague path! </span></p></blockquote>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><b>If you did it all again would you do anything differently? </b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Learning from this trip, I would take a small bag with only the bare essentials, then I would probably cut that in half again! </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">I’d make sure to travel fast and light. It was so difficult to gauge the pace and terrain without having done a recce beforehand… I’m excited for the next one and I reckon I will be a lot faster!</span></p>
<p><b>Do you think you will combine trail running and trekking in future expeditions? What’s next?</b></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Yes, I’m very keen to combine either trail running or another form of travel that allows you to immerse yourself in a culture. Climbing in the Himalayas is amazing but offers a very limited insight into the Nepalese culture. Running through Nepal gave me a unique view and was an adventure like nothing I had experienced before. I have been thinking about cycling to the Karakoram and climbing a mountain there. We will see! </span></p>
<p><i><span style="font-weight: 400;">Rupert’s expedition was made possible with the help of <a href="https://goape.co.uk/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Go Ape</a>, Arc’teryx, Nytetimber and Suunto.</span></i></p>
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		<title>Interview: Aysha Sharif</title>
		<link>https://www.base-mag.com/interview-aysha-sharif-wanderlust-women/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Chris Hunt]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 19 May 2022 16:30:54 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Interview]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.base-mag.com/?p=4923</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[A conversation around the cultural and societal barriers Muslim women face, and their path so far in the outdoors]]></description>
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		<p id="breadcrumbs" class="mt-5 text-black" ><span><span><a href="https://www.base-mag.com/">Home</a></span> <span class="separator inline-block align-baseline mx-1 opacity-50"></span> <span class="breadcrumb_last" aria-current="page">Interview</span></span></p>		<h1 class="dirty-heading text-4xl md:text-h1   text-black">Interview: Aysha Sharif</h1>
		<div class="text-md md:text-lg text-center mb-4 mx-auto text-black">A conversation around the cultural and societal barriers Muslim women face, and their path so far in the outdoors</div>		
		
			
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							<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/hannah-bailey/" class="block text-normal text-black">Hannah Bailey</a>
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					<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/hannah-bailey/" class="h-12 w-12 md:h-20 md:w-20 inline-block bg-grey-light overflow-hidden rounded-full text-center"><img decoding="async" width="300" height="200" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/HannahProfilePic_byRupertShanks-300x200.jpg" class="object-cover object-center h-full w-full wp-post-image" alt="Hannah Bailey" srcset="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/HannahProfilePic_byRupertShanks-300x200.jpg 300w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/HannahProfilePic_byRupertShanks-1024x684.jpg 1024w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/HannahProfilePic_byRupertShanks-768x513.jpg 768w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/HannahProfilePic_byRupertShanks-1536x1026.jpg 1536w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/HannahProfilePic_byRupertShanks-1248x834.jpg 1248w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/HannahProfilePic_byRupertShanks-1800x1203.jpg 1800w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/HannahProfilePic_byRupertShanks-700x468.jpg 700w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/HannahProfilePic_byRupertShanks-250x167.jpg 250w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/HannahProfilePic_byRupertShanks.jpg 1920w" sizes="(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /></a>					<div class="sm:pl-5 mx-auto sm:mx-0 text-center sm:text-left max-w-lg">
						<span class="text-black uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1">Hannah Bailey</span>
						<span class="block text-sm text-black">Hannah is an award-winning photographer and journalist who works tirelessly to shine the spotlight on women in action sports. She shows the real faces, telling genuine stories of those involved in the niche culture to inspire others to get involved and society as a whole.</span>					</div>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p class="p1"><em><span class="s1">Aysha Sharif is one of the inspiring individuals part of <a href="https://www.thewanderlustwomen.co.uk/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Wanderlust Women</a>, a grassroots organisation and movement working to create a safe space for Muslim women to access the outdoors and adventure. The group, founded by<a href="https://www.instagram.com/amira_thewanderlust/"> Amira Patel</a>, is on a mission to normalise Muslim women in the space, empowering thousands to throw on hiking boots, stomp the soil, and access the magic of the outdoors. </span></em></p>
<p class="p1"><em><span class="s1">For over 10 years <a href="https://www.instagram.com/neonstash/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Hannah Bailey</a>, has worked tirelessly to authentically represent and shine a spotlight on women in outdoors and action sports. Her mission as a photographer and journalist has been to challenge the media, and industry to support inspiring stories, events and women in the scene, to encourage more participation and representation. Her latest project, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/wanderingwrkshops/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Wandering Workshops</a>, is a grassroots community organisation that aims to make splitboarding accessible to more people, welcoming new perspectives into the snow space.<br />
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<p class="p1"><em><span class="s1">Hannah recently caught up with Aysha, to understand the cultural and societal barriers her community faces, and to gain her perspective on their path so far.</span></em></p>
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			<p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">Time to think and breathe. &#8216;Whatever problem you&#8217;re taking up, you&#8217;re coming down with a solution. © Amira Patel</p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p class="p1"><span class="s1"><b>It is really exciting to have this chance to chat with you Aysha, to learn about your story and that of the Wanderlust Women. Can you tell me your outdoor story and how it came to be part of your life?</b></span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">I’ve always loved the outdoors since I was little as my dad was outdoorsy. So we grew up with all these stories of him out in the mountains, trekking and solo camping. As a South Asian woman these activities and the outdoors weren’t accessible to us at that time. It wasn’t a landscape we were able to access because our mums weren’t doing it. It’s not that they didn’t want to, but they‘d come from a different country, they didn’t speak the language, and they were raising young families so they never had the opportunity to do anything else.</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">When we were little my dad would take us up Pendle Hill in Lancashire. For me, it felt like I belonged there. As I grew up and went to university, it just wasn&#8217;t the culture amongst my friends. Then I had a difficult marriage and now I have a difficult divorce. I started pushing myself a few years ago, because I just needed to get out. But there was no one in my circle who could help me access the outdoors. I know it sounds like a silly thing to say, ‘to access the outdoors’, when it’s just there, but it’s not that easy. You have to drive there, hike this new area, in which you don’t know who you will meet, and what sort of reception you will get. At the beginning I was apprehensive. I used to solo hike, and I remember I met this guy on Snowdon who was with his family, and I stopped where everyone else had to take a breath. He turned around to me and he asked &#8216;do you think you can make it?&#8217;<span class="Apple-converted-space"> W</span>as he asking because I was a woman, because I am brown, because I am covered? Which part of me makes you think that I’m not going to make it, but everyone else is? It became a competition and I beat him to the top.</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Then, a woman with her older children on a family day out asked if I was there by myself. For me it wasn’t anything out of the ordinary, but obviously you didn’t see many brown people up hills in the images used in media or marketing. There was hardly any representation even just 18 months ago. But we were there before!</span></p>
<p class="p1"><strong><span class="s1">So after solo hiking, how was it you came across Amira and the Wanderlust Women way?</span></strong></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Well, I moved up to the Lake District about 18 months ago and met Amira on her first <a href="https://www.thewanderlustwomen.co.uk/copy-of-what-we-do" target="_blank" rel="noopener">retreat</a> in June last year. We clicked, it was love at first sight and she lived with me for a while. When I moved here as a single mum with my three girls, my family kept asking when I was coming home. But here is where I feel I belong, where I feel safe. It&#8217;s the first place I&#8217;ve ever felt home. I think it is the same with Amira. She went out to the hills to seek solace, and grieve through her personal problems and she found peace there. The type of characters we are, myself, Amira and The Wanderlust women, we want to share that with everybody. </span></p>
<p class="p1"><strong><span class="s1">I understand what you mean about finding peace in the hills, and wanting to share that. What has it been like to open that out to more women to gain the benefits of the outdoors and understanding of its magic powers?</span></strong></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Last year when I was on her retreat, there were so many divorcees and single mums on it. As a woman from South Asian culture, it is hard to go through that, for example you can feel isolated as a divorcee as there is just not that support network. As we were all going through these things, we found an anchor in faith and part of our spirituality is the connection to nature and God. So when you are out there, on the mountain and you see everything that is created, without your help, and realise that life has been sustained, how can you not be empowered to sustain your life. </span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">I remember this one young woman on the retreat that first year who was a single mum with two small daughters. She started hiking but was finding it difficult to get childcare. People around her couldn&#8217;t understand why she needed to go hiking, they would say why not just go to the cinema or go shopping. But those activities don’t fill your heart with peace! She persevered and now she is doing solo hikes all over the place. That one woman was empowered after just that one weekend, and in the future her daughters will be empowered. </span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">I think for me and Amira it&#8217;s that ripple effect. It&#8217;s not just about taking women on hikes &#8211; it&#8217;s about sharing it and making it as easy for people as possible to join us in the outdoors. We have all been through dark times and we knew how bad they were. So if we can help one or two get out of that, it&#8217;ll all be worth it.</span></p>
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<blockquote><p>Was he asking because I&#8217;m a woman, because I&#8217;m brown, because I&#8217;m covered? Which part of me makes you think that I&#8217;m not going to make it?</p></blockquote>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p class="p1"><strong><span class="s1">I’m fascinated by what you&#8217;re saying about the spiritual and religious side of connecting to nature. It makes so much sense to me. Spending time outdoors goes one step further than everyday activities, it connects and grounds us all. </span></strong></p>
<p class="p1"><strong><span class="s1">The stereotypical outdoorsman or alpinist has been represented for so long in this space, but I think this has often lead to it feeling stale &#8211; the same photos, from the same angle, of the same people. It made me think how it is such a special time for your community as you&#8217;re the drivers of it. Is there a feeling of excitement of being in this space and and what it stands for? </span></strong></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Definitely. When Amira stayed with me here in the Lake District, I would put my girls to bed and nod off, then come downstairs at 1 in the morning and she would still be scribbling away. We would go through ideas for hours and hours, because for us it was a new world, because we were not able to be a part of it before. </span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Elements like wearing your clothes and praying, they were all barriers. The media is such a powerful tool that when you see an image, it becomes a norm, but if you haven’t seen anyone bowing down and praying on a mountain somewhere, it is going to look like the oddest thing you have ever seen. We&#8217;re so excited to be doing what we are doing, but we are so limited with time. I am a single parent. I have to balance things. I want to do Wanderlust Women, to look after my kids and I have work as well. If it was up to us, we would be doing it every day &#8211; we are so time blind! </span></p>
<p class="p1"><strong><span class="s1">As early people in this space, you are part of defining what it looks like for others to join it, which is an honor but a great responsibility. What fuels you, Amira and The Wanderlust Women in this space?</span></strong></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Life and pain teaches you so much. When you come through a series of dark tunnels, and get out the other side, you want to take everyone through it. Everyone who looks, thinks, and speaks like you, because you have known challenges and faced the barriers. We have been on the outside of this scene, and wanted to be a part of but we couldn’t because we couldn&#8217;t wear the clothes, or we didn’t have people to help guide us in. </span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">I remember at the beginning, when I wanted to start hiking, just getting the boots was difficult. I didn’t know about sizing, or what type of socks to get, or gaiters or waterproofs. If you don’t have that dialogue or guidance from someone who is not going to ridicule you, you might not get started. </span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Three weeks ago we were in Scotland doing our winter skills, and we met a girl. She was full of anguish and pain, but she was pushing herself through it. It felt like therapy. The mountains, this environment and these activities can fuel you to push your way through things. For us it is therapy, but also sisterhood. It doesn’t matter who you are, or where you are from, you see everyone blossoming on the hills together. It is not just hiking, it is not just swimming, it is about changing people’s lives!</span></p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p class="p1"><span class="s1"><strong>I totally agree. The benefits you get from the outdoors and from being in these environments have been really magical for me personally, to face challenges in life. And I feel I want to encourage other people and give them the chance to feel this magic, to be provided with the therapeutic benefits. It seems like one of the Wanderlust missions is to provide that opportunity for your community to feel the benefit of the outdoors from the therapeutic and sisterhood point of view.</strong> </span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Like you said, it is magical. You have to experience it. I always say, when you go up a mountain, you go up one version of yourself, and you come down a completely different version. Whatever problem you are taking up, you&#8217;re coming down with a solution. How beautiful is that?! You don’t turn to drugs, you don’t turn to drink, or useless entertainment. You don’t drown in your current problem. I don’t think there is anyone who isn&#8217;t going through something. But the beauty of it is that it is so simple. Just go out, and whatever answer you need, you are going to find it within yourself. If we can guide people to that empowerment, society would be a better place.</span></p>
<p class="p1"><strong><span class="s1">The barriers your community faces, can you talk a little bit about what they are and what you have learned through The Wanderlust Women? I think it&#8217;s important for people to understand them, so we can all be part of helping to challenge or diminish them. </span></strong></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">We have three identities. We are British, whereby we know we can do anything we want to do &#8211; work hard, and you can achieve it. We are South Asian, where it doesn’t matter how hard you work, there are certain things you are just not going to do as a woman. Then Islamically, there are certain restrictions in terms of your dress, and the fact you have to offer your prayers, and retain that modesty. Modesty isn’t restriction, it is the protection of the self. </span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">All those factors combine to create barriers and the biggest one, in my opinion, is our South Asian culture. It is not the Islamic identity that halts or subdues us. Some of the greatest people and the founders of the religion were women &#8211; there is a lot of power and strength in them. In South Asian culture, you will get men who look like you, from the same family and community, who on the mountain think what we are doing is great, but when they are at home they won’t offer the same facility to their mothers, sisters or daughters. There is no plausible reason we can’t do what they are doing, it&#8217;s just the culture. </span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">I did a swimsuit shoot the other day, and I told my mum, and she got really upset about it. Swimming is something I have only recently taken up after years of wanting to do it and not being able to. So if it helps other people to get the chance to do it, then why not? I was covered head-to-toe, so Islamically I was fulfilling my obligations. I think it was just a culture shock for her. It was the norm for women to not be seen and not be heard, and all of a sudden we are on mountains wearing boots and stomping in the rain. For some people patriarchal society doesn’t allow them to fathom this. It is important to note, we are not only battling people who don’t look like us, we are battling people who look like us too. </span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1"><strong>That may be a revelation to the community, to realise that you are challenged by those in your own.</strong> </span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Amira does interviews and documentaries, and she&#8217;s had a lot of backlash, mostly from men. They often say she should be at home, doing the cooking and cleaning. Also, we have done some live events where people have asked us why we are not married. But nothing in our religion says what we&#8217;re doing is wrong. The original muslim women used to climb mountains, even if it wasn’t discussed. For us, it is balancing the three elements of our identity. Sometimes you get it right, sometimes you get it wrong. But we are open about our struggles because we are not the only ones struggling.</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1"><strong>It is so interesting. The impact of what you are doing is not just for the mainstream, the white community, to see what you are doing. It is important but it is also to normalise it around your own community and invite more people in. It is as valuable to change the perspective and understanding of the older generation and men. </strong></span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">That is one of the things. We regularly sit down to renew our intentions and our values around why we are doing all this. Our faith is very important to us, and we don&#8217;t want to do anything that will go against it. But if you don’t speak up, things don’t change. You can subdue oppression, you can subdue abuse, but eventually they will all come up. I always think I have to speak up, for whatever issue is at the forefront of our minds now, because tomorrow my daughters will find it a bit easier to deal with. I sit down with them and say you can do anything you want with life, nothing will stop you. My older daughter wants to be a farmer, so I asked her if I should get us a farm, to which she replied, &#8216;no I want to be the first female farmer in our family!&#8217; They are all determined to make it up Everest and that is our common goal. We need to start training…</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">I know in the wider community, what we are doing is just a small drop, but imagine if all girls were empowered and believed they could really do something, and then you teach them good values. How is it that those girls will not contribute good to society? Once you have expanded someone’s mind and opened the world to them, then surely they look to do good. For us, that is what it&#8217;s all about.</span></p>
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			<p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">People say it&#8217;s just hiking but it&#8217;s not. It is so much deeper. It goes down into your soul. © Amira Patel</p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p class="p1"><strong><span class="s1">Y</span></strong><span class="s1"><b>es that&#8217;s proven. Empower a community, and give them access, and they will be more likely to protect the land, both doing good environmentally and socially. It might only be a drop in the ocean, but that little drop makes a ripple, and has its impact. I believe grassroots organisations are making the most impact in our industry, to create change, and invite more people in. I wondered where you thought the impact was being made or led by?</b></span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">We have had a lot of women and individual supporters covering all the elements we do. There is Harriet, who helps run our navigation courses, or Ester who does the rock climbing. They have been running courses from the early retreats, and you can already see the impact it is having on their lives, our lives and the lives of participants. They are really behind the movement! </span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Ester will get a 60-year-old Asian woman rock climbing, when just a few years ago she would have just had to sit at home, and now she is on the rocks in the Lakes. It is all these individual women, and smaller groups that push us all along, as we are all pushing for the same thing. Ultimately, I believe in the sisterhood. The most fundamental part of our religion is that we believe when God created Adam the first human, he created him from soils of different areas and all different colours. So we are all one, we are all created from the same soil and earth.</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1"><strong>Wow, I love the understanding of the different soil making the first human. It makes me think about how when we walk a hill we are walking the same mountain, the same soil. I think about that here in the Cairngorms when I&#8217;m hiking, I am walking the same path or patch of soil that <a href="https://www.scottishpoetrylibrary.org.uk/poet/nan-shepherd/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Nan Shepherd</a> or Queen Victoria have. Two, well three, ladies from very different backgrounds. As humans we would never have mixed, but we are sharing the same soil and path. I am fascinated by that.</strong> </span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">It is so beautiful. It&#8217;s about belonging and strength. People say it is just hiking, but it is not. It is so much deeper. It goes down into your soul. How could you not pass that feeling on?! Especially in today’s world where there is connection and there is disconnection, there is feeling but there is no feeling. But when you see a group of women, sitting together, meditating, absorbing nature out in the hills, that experience will have rippled deep inside them.</span></p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><blockquote><p>It&#8217;s not just hiking, it&#8217;s not just swimming, it&#8217;s about changing lives!</p></blockquote>
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		<p class="caption-text m-0 p-3">Aysha and Amira bagging their first winter Munro in 2021. © Adam Raja</p>
	

	


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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p class="p1"><strong><span class="s1">Belonging and connection are so powerful, and it is why I am so in love with the outdoors and the community also. But I think we have a long way still to go in our industry, well actually the world, to open the door to allow more people to belong. To not feel afraid to let people be part of it, and bring change or newness. I know things have progressed in the past year, I can see it thanks to organisations and people like you. </span></strong><strong><span class="s1">But do you see a change in the industry&#8217;s representation of minority communities, and what could the industry do to support it further at this point?</span></strong></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">With the work that Amira and The Wanderlust Women are doing, you can see the media are picking it up, there is representation. And more importantly, there is discussion and dialogue. Part of our understanding is that you can approach Asian men, but they have already been exposed to it, it is open access to them. The real struggle is with the Asian muslim females because they are not only pushing against their own barriers, but culture barriers, societal barriers and then facing the world out there, where they look different, they are covered and all the connotations associated. Bridging of cultures is where the dialogue starts. It opens us up to ask what are our similarities, because we know what our differences are. Then how do we build on them, and create these cohesive environments where people learn and become better versions of themselves. We can only do that through dialogue and getting to know each other. </span></p>
<p class="p1"><strong><span class="s1">So, is that what the industry can do behind the scenes, whether that&#8217;s brands, media or the community itself? To open up dialogue, speak to the individuals and listen?</span></strong></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Absolutely! If the object is people doing these activities, but there are still barriers to entry. For example, brands are making products that are not suitable for everyone. <a href="https://www.base-mag.com/the-seasuit-project-wild-swimming-surfing/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">It&#8217;s not only Muslim women who are asking for long-sleeved tops</a>, it was the same thing with <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2011/apr/23/nigella-lawson-burkini-bikini-swimming" target="_blank" rel="noopener">the burkini and Nigella Lawson</a>. She is not muslim, but she wanted to wear a full coverage. There is demand there, it is just how much the industry wants to tap into it. Amira is helping design the windproof and waterproof hijab, and that is massive. The fact that a big brand is taking on board that there is a community that has a different need and answer it.</span></p>
<p class="p1"><strong><span class="s1">Aysha, this has been so enlightening and inspiring. Do you have any final thoughts for us to take away?</span></strong></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">We are just learning ourselves. Every day and every opportunity is a new one. Right now we are working on our mountaineering courses to make ourselves more confident, and qualified to be the leaders in our community, and so people can come to us. Amira and I are confident and independent women, but not all are like that, I think for us that is important to note. We want to create a safe space for those women, to empower them to find their voice. </span></p>
<p class="p1"><em><span class="s1">While the outdoors industry is certainly seeing steps towards creating a more inclusive and diverse community, there is still a way to go. For a directory of organisations and individuals working to increase diversity in the UK outdoors, check out <a href="https://www.alltheelements.co/directory" target="_blank" rel="noopener">All The Elements</a>.</span></em></p>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Hannah]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 09 May 2022 17:25:08 +0000</pubDate>
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							<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/hannah-mitchell/" class="block text-normal text-black">Hannah Mitchell</a>
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							<span class="text-orange uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1 sm:mb-2">Photographer</span>
							<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/band-of-birds/" class="block text-normal text-black">Band of Birds</a>
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						<span class="text-black uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1">Hannah Mitchell</span>
						<span class="block text-sm text-black">BASE Digital Writer Hannah is a Lake District-based journalist and all-round outdoor lass with a particular fondness for rock faces.</span>					</div>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p style="text-align: center;"><em><span style="font-weight: 400;">Gender disparities still exist in many aspects of life, and sports, the outdoors and adventure is no different. Pregnancy and motherhood are areas within our community often overlooked or misrepresented. </span></em><em><span style="font-weight: 400;">But, thanks to a growing number of women publicly sharing their journeys, we are seeing those misconceptions slowly dismantled. Albeit one step at a time. </span></em></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em><span style="font-weight: 400;">One of those women is Olympic climber Shauna Coxsey. </span></em><em>In an exclusive conversation with BASE, Shauna shares her insight and experiences of remaining active and adventurous during pregnancy.</em></p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p style="text-align: left;">In 1988, <a href="https://www.encyclopedia.com/history/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts-and-maps/hargreaves-alison" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Alison Hargreaves</a> climbed the <a href="https://www.base-mag.com/the-eiger-in-a-day/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Eiger Nordwand</a> whilst six months pregnant with her first child, an ascent that Hargreaves considered to be relatively conservative. In that pre-social media era, and owing to her relative obscurity within the mountaineering community at that time, no one raised an eyebrow. Fast-forward to May of 1995, and Hargreaves was thrust into the international spotlight when she became the first woman in history to summit <a href="https://www.britannica.com/place/Mount-Everest" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Everest</a>, doing so alone and without bottled oxygen. She received high praise, her tenacity and strength applauded.</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">In a radio transmission from the summit, Hargreaves said – ‘To Tom and Kate, my dear children, I am on the highest point of the world, and I love you dearly’.</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Later that year, Hargreaves tragically perished whilst descending <a href="https://www.britannica.com/place/K2" target="_blank" rel="noopener">K2</a> after being caught in a fierce and unprecedented storm on the mountain. The media backlash that followed her death was one of judgement and criticism – suddenly Hargreaves was considered selfish, lambasted for leaving her children to put herself in harm’s way.</p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><span style="font-weight: 400;">In this increasingly digital age of free comment on social media, it seems that regardless of the topic or reason, for those in the limelight it can be difficult to avoid judgment on a public scale. </span><span style="font-weight: 400;">When it comes to pregnancy and parenthood, women are often critiqued for their actions.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Having begun climbing at age four, <a href="https://www.redbull.com/gb-en/athlete/shauna-coxsey-profile-red-bull">Shauna Coxsey</a> is Britain&#8217;s most successful-ever competitive climber. She has racked up a myriad of medals, a Bouldering World Championship win and numerous first female ascents.<br />
She was the first athlete to represent Great Britain in climbing at the<a href="https://olympics.com/en/olympic-games/tokyo-2020/results/sport-climbing"> Tokyo 2020 Olympics</a> and was awarded and an MBE for services to the sport. Yep, Shauna is about as accomplished and knowledgeable as they come.</span></p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><blockquote><p>The negativity has been loud but it’s actually such a small percentage of the comments</p></blockquote>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><span style="font-weight: 400;">For about the last eight-and-a-half months, Shauna&#8217;s</span><strong> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/shaunacoxsey/?hl=en">Instagram</a></strong><span style="font-weight: 400;"> has been awash with videos and photos of her bouldering with a bump. The accompanying message has been a reinforcement of the fact that risks can be mitigated, activities are adaptable and that no one knows your body better than you. In short, motherhood doesn’t necessarily mean giving up what you love. </span></p>
<p>Scroll through the comments on her feed and you’ll find a positive chorus of praise for her calculated and careful approach to keeping up the sport that she has spent almost her entire life doing, throughout her pregnancy.</p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">But, since her social media presence shifted from explosive, acrobatic movement and dynamic dismounts to controlled down-climbing and bump-friendly boulders, the transition hasn&#8217;t been without critique. Amongst the iterations of awe and inspiration, a handful have been quick to question Shauna&#8217;s judgement and undeniably expert opinion, albeit from behind their keyboard.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">‘I knew it was coming,’ Shauna tells me. ‘I’ve been on social media a long time and know that anything you share is subject to judgement. I always try to share an honest insight into my life and that’s what I have continued to do through pregnancy. The negativity has been loud but it’s such a small percentage of the comments. </span><span style="font-weight: 400;">I actually haven’t had any negativity in real life at all, which I find pretty interesting.’ </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">In portraying an active pregnancy and early motherhood, of course Shauna is in fantastic company. In 2019, champion fell runner <a href="https://www.inov-8.com/jasmin-paris-recordbreaking-spine-race-win" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Jasmin Paris</a> famously expressed breastmilk for her baby daughter at checkpoints along the 268-mile long Montane Spine Race, and in Patagonia film </span><strong><a href="https://www.base-mag.com/learning-lessons-from-jeju-with-nicole-gormley/" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><i>Lessons From</i> <i>Jeju</i></a></strong><span style="font-weight: 400;">, professional freediver Kimi Werner explores the ocean&#8217;s depths with the fisherwomen of a South Korean island, at seven months pregnant. Yet</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"> in Western society today, there is still a degree of scrutiny attributed to women who remain active and adventurous during pregnancy and motherhood. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">‘It seems that there are gender disparities in the way that parents are regarded and the roles that they are expected to take in all areas, so it is inevitable that the outdoors is no different,’ says Shauna. </span><span style="font-weight: 400;">‘</span><span style="font-weight: 400;">The outdoors was traditionally a male-dominated space. The role of child care was traditionally a female-dominated space. Although there are barriers being shattered and huge changes happening this history runs deep and it seems there’s still a long way to go before we are in a space where there’s no prejudice</span><span style="font-weight: 400;">.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;">’</span></p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Now in week 39 of her pregnancy, Shauna is still climbing and training (bringing an entirely different meaning to the phrase <em>b</em></span><em><span style="font-weight: 400;">aby</span></em><i><span style="font-weight: 400;"> on board</span></i><span style="font-weight: 400;">), whilst candidly sharing her journey and explaining to inquisitive followers how she adapts her movement. Shauna&#8217;s social media presence though is undoubtedly a very public platform. Responses to her posts from other mothers and mothers-to-be indicate that the judgement and criticism faced is not confined solely to the the internet or indeed those with high profiles.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">&#8216;I got a lot of grief from people for cycling and running all the way through both my pregnancies&#8217; – comments one follower.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">&#8216;I&#8217;m trying to hide my bump in the gym to escape judgement&#8217;– says another.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">‘I have had many women reach out who stopped climbing when their bump started showing,’ says Shauna. ‘Dealing with criticism and judgement is exhausting. It is so disappointing that many women choose to stop doing something they love, that keeps them fit, healthy and happy through fear of judgment.’</span></p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><blockquote><p>It is so disappointing that many women choose to stop doing something they love, that keeps them fit, healthy and happy through fear of judgment</p></blockquote>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Today, behind each awe-inspiring image of Shauna climbing is extensive consultation with medical professionals, the attentive spotting of her husband – fellow climber Ned Feehally – and most importantly, Shauna&#8217;s own intrinsic understanding of her body, ability and risk perception.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"> </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">‘It is inevitable that women face different criticism to men when pregnant,’ says Shauna. ‘I think the judgement that women face during pregnancy is mostly about other people&#8217;s assessment of risk and lack of understanding of the woman&#8217;s capabilities both physically and in their abilities to assess risk and make decisions.’</span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Whilst general medical guidance is right to suggest that expectant mothers be risk-averse, this is highly subjective territory, dependent on existing skill and ability and of course any other health variables. Throughout her pregnancy, Shauna has emphasised the importance of this subjectivity, and acknowledges that not all mothers-to-be are able to maintain being active. Despite the nay-sayers and anonymous critics, Shauna’s openness has been generally well-received.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">‘I had no idea if I’d feel good and want to or be able to keep climbing, so it wasn’t a pre-planned thing to share loads of climbing whilst pregnant content,’ she explains. &#8216;The response has been overwhelmingly positive though, so many women have reached out and it’s been wonderful to hear from women who have been empowered to keep climbing within their comfort zone.’</span></p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Being informed and adaptive, with a solid perception of risk and mitigation as well as an understanding of your comfort zones all play equally important roles in remaining active and adventurous (at whatever level) regardless of pregnancy or parenthood. </span><span style="font-weight: 400;">But with public figures like Shauna sharing their stories in an informative and empowering way, perhaps fewer expectant mothers will give up the activities that bring them joy for fear of criticism or judgement. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">I for one, hope to see a further shift in the narrative surrounding motherhood, and the misconception that being pregnant means always keeping your feet on the ground.</span></p>
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		<title>How to Train the World&#8217;s Best Endurance Athletes</title>
		<link>https://www.base-mag.com/how-do-you-train-the-worlds-best-endurance-athletes/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Chris Hunt]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 18 Feb 2022 11:29:17 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Interview]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.base-mag.com/?p=3848</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[How do you train the best of the best? We caught up with endurance coach Jon Fearne to find out.]]></description>
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		<p id="breadcrumbs" class="mt-5 text-black" ><span><span><a href="https://www.base-mag.com/">Home</a></span> <span class="separator inline-block align-baseline mx-1 opacity-50"></span> <span class="breadcrumb_last" aria-current="page">Interview</span></span></p>		<h1 class="dirty-heading text-4xl md:text-h1   text-black">How to Train the World&#8217;s Best Endurance Athletes</h1>
		<div class="text-md md:text-lg text-center mb-4 mx-auto text-black">How do you train the best of the best? We caught up with endurance coach Jon Fearne to find out.</div>		
		
			
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							<span class="text-orange uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1 sm:mb-2">Read time</span>
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						<span class="text-orange uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1 sm:mb-2">Published</span>
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							<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/chris-hunt/" class="block text-normal text-black">Chris Hunt</a>
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					<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/chris-hunt/" class="h-12 w-12 md:h-20 md:w-20 inline-block bg-grey-light overflow-hidden rounded-full text-center"><img decoding="async" width="300" height="238" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/Komoot.Marketing-26-e1642097271307-300x238.jpg" class="object-cover object-center h-full w-full wp-post-image" alt="" srcset="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/Komoot.Marketing-26-e1642097271307-300x238.jpg 300w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/Komoot.Marketing-26-e1642097271307-250x198.jpg 250w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/Komoot.Marketing-26-e1642097271307.jpg 567w" sizes="(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /></a>					<div class="sm:pl-5 mx-auto sm:mx-0 text-center sm:text-left max-w-lg">
						<span class="text-black uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1">Chris Hunt</span>
						<span class="block text-sm text-black">BASE Editor and Bristol-based adventure writer with a penchant for travel by bike, interesting coastlines and adventures that end in the pub.</span>					</div>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><em>Welcome to the golden age of endurance in adventure. Massive physical feats of over vast wild spaces and huge amounts of time has always been a pillar of adventure and exploration &#8211; think ski crossings of Antarctica for example, an absolute adventure classic with a whole ton of history. Today, it&#8217;s a space occupied like never before and as trail runs and bike rides get more and more extreme, endurance sport often feels very at home in adventure. FKT is an acronym almost ready for the mainstream (that&#8217;s &#8216;fastest known time&#8217; if you&#8217;re not yet on board) as people constantly strive towards further, faster, longer. </em></p>
<p><em>And you&#8217;ll know many of the traditional names in the space, their tales of strife, grit and determination are stories many of us are plenty familiar with. </em><em>But what about behind the scenes? Who trains the best of the best, and how? We caught up with <a href="https://www.e3coach.com/jon-fearne/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">endurance coach Jon Fearne</a> to find out.</em></p>
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			<p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">Jon, ski-tour training with Jade Phillips and James Cadge. He coached Jade for a Welsh ultra-marathon and James for Transalpine Run and later his Marine Corps entry. </p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>Where does your passion for endurance come from?</strong></p>
<div>For me it&#8217;s internal, I&#8217;ve always pushed myself physically and after school, that progressed through extreme-sports. Endurance was a natural progression. I also have ADHD so in many ways you could say it was a coping strategy, this strategy was helped by my primary school headmaster who spotted the issues and aimed me towards sport. From 9-years-old I never looked back. I guess it&#8217;s still a subconscious coping tool.</div>
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<p><strong>And how did you find your way into coaching?</strong></p>
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<div>From an early age, I saw the reward of helping others train and compete. I was 12-years-old, helping out younger kids in athletics at school. That gave me a greater sense of achievement than from competing in my own events – I had no real idea at the time but it&#8217;s pretty clear now looking back.</div>
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<p><strong>Who are some of the athletes you&#8217;ve been training with in recent years?</strong></p>
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<div>In the last few years I have worked with two amazing polar (Antarctic) athletes: <a href="https://southpole2020.com/#bio" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Wendy Searle</a> who solo skied unsupported to the South Pole and more recently <a href="https://www.base-mag.com/preet-chandi-is-the-first-woman-of-colour-to-ski-to-south-pole-solo/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Preet Chandi</a> who covered the same journey.</div>
<div></div>
<div>I work with world endurance champion mountain bikers both male and female, ocean rowers, Marathon des Sables runners, Lake Baikal solo traverse athletes, and<a href="https://www.e3coach.com/sickbed-to-summits-by-sara-crosland/" target="_blank" rel="noopener"> an amazing lady &#8211; Sara Crossland</a>. She is a brain tumour survivor, running the length of the UK. That&#8217;s just to name a few.</div>
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			<p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">Much of Jon&#8217;s work is done at the computer &#8211; keeping track and updating his athlete&#8217;s training schedules.</p>
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								<a title="Jon and Preet Chandi at the leaving party for her '21-'22 South Pole expedition." href="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Screen-Shot-2022-02-18-at-10.56.43.jpg" class="block group
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								<p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">Jon and Preet Chandi at the leaving party for her &#8217;21-&#8217;22 South Pole expedition.</p>
						
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								<a title="Elite cross-country mountain bike rider Tom Knight." href="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/tom-knight-1024x683.jpeg" class="block group
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								<p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">Elite cross-country mountain bike rider Tom Knight.</p>
						
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><blockquote><p>The pandemic has been really difficult for people for who live to push themselves. So managing this was tough for me, you have a person&#8217;s mental health as well as their physical health to look after</p></blockquote>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>There seems to be a bit of a boom of interest in extreme endurance at the moment, why do you think that is?</strong></p>
<div></div>
<div>Boundaries are being pushed all the time and so things are opening up and more people want to find their limits. The media shares more stories of amazing achievements which motivates more people to get out. I think there&#8217;s also an element of natural progression. A marathon used to be the ultimate, then maybe an Ironman, then ultra-running and so it keeps growing. Then with the likes of <a href="http://www.instagram.com/kilianjornet/">Kilian Jornet</a> who has mixed endurance with adventure so amazingly, the appeal grows and covers more areas of sport.</div>
<h4></h4>
<p><strong>I think in many minds the concept of endurance is simply sadistic. Are they right to some extent?</strong></p>
<div></div>
<div>No, I don&#8217;t think so. Everyone has different limits, goals and tolerances. You could maybe say that these are people who need greater suffering to be able to feel reward, but a <a href="https://utmbmontblanc.com/en/UTMB" target="_blank" rel="noopener">UTMB (Ultimate Trail Mont Blanc)</a> runner may feel a football player running back and forth for 90 minutes at such high intensity is sadistic. It&#8217;s just personal choices and preference. Do people have different psychological make-ups? Yes, for sure and this will no doubt lead them to certain activities.</div>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>What do people take from endurance sports that they might not from regular sport?</strong></p>
<div></div>
<div>Believe it or not they all take very similar things away. A sense of escapism, pushing yourself physically and mentally. Maybe an endurance athlete generates a closer connection to the outdoors and wild environments which is different to a tennis court. Although many endurance athletes compete and train as individuals, there&#8217;s a really obvious sense of community which I think is a major pull for many of them too.</div>
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<div>If we look back  30 or 40 years, I would argue it was a sense of escaping the norms set out by society which some mainstream sports fit into &#8211; so, a sense of breaking away. But I think we&#8217;d need to look at individuals more than a collective to discover all the &#8216;whys&#8217;.</div>
<h4></h4>
<p><strong>What are the big challenges faced by your athletes and also you as their coach? </strong></p>
<div></div>
<div>Wow, ok the simplest one is getting people to slow down and understand rest and recovery. That&#8217;s really important. But the last few years has been about managing a group of people who live to push themselves, be it in races or adventures, who have had that taken away [due to Covid restrictions]. So managing this was tough for me. You have a person&#8217;s mental health as well as their physical health to look after. It was a crazy time when people needed their escapes more than ever. Maybe they&#8217;d lost family members, lost their jobs and so on.</div>
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<h4></h4>
<p><strong>What kind of time do your athletes need to commit to for training? Is it possible to fit in adequate endurance training around a normal schedule?</strong></p>
<p>Depending on the nature of the chosen event or goal, you can be looking between seven to 15 hours a week. Some professional athletes train upwards of 20 hours. But it&#8217;s about getting on it as soon as you have a goal. The bigger the gap you have between starting to train and your goal, in theory the fewer hours you&#8217;ll need each week.</p>
<p>After around three hours of really focusing on aerobic work, you can get away with a little less volume. If trained properly, your body has a great way of maintaining endurance.</p>
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			<p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">Jon ski-touring at home in France with his huskies.</p>
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<blockquote><p>It was a crazy time when people needed their escapes more than ever</p></blockquote>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>What specific elements are you looking to develop in an athlete&#8217;s physiology when you&#8217;re training them for endurance events?</strong></p>
<div>
<p>Depending on their history, you really want to get those more boring miles in the bank, so aerobic base work. That really underpins everything that we do. Besides that, some general and specific strength work. I love to incorporate stretching and yoga as a major element in training especially as we get older.</p>
<p>I see a lot of athletes who have Aerobic Deficiency Syndrome, basically meaning they have been training too much at too high-intensity and then burn out on a 30 minute steady run. These athletes have to really focus on the steady work, but the problem is that they love the immediate sensory feedback from high-intensity.</p>
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<p><strong>So much of endurance sport is associated with harsh weather conditions. How can you train resilience for this?<br />
</strong></p>
<div>
<p>This is where I get to be creative. We obviously can&#8217;t train in these environments and conditions all the time, so I build sessions to teach similar stresses. More often, these will work the psychological aspect of an expedition just as much as the physical. A session for a polar athlete for example might be taking an ice-bath, then building camp, breaking down camp and getting back in the bath before towing tyres for two hours and the repeating.</p>
<p>Obviously, just getting out in the worst possible conditions to get training done is always going to be useful. Not just in terms of the exercise, but emptying a backpack and re-packing in the middle of a storm for example can be really useful too. I&#8217;ve also had ocean rowers build around their rowing machine, to mimic their setup on the boat. I get them to do a super fatiguing session with the lights out and then prepare a meal.</p>
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<div></div>
<div>For me it&#8217;s all these little components, that when trained, make an expedition or event a success just as much as all the gains of physical training.</div>
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<h4></h4>
<p><strong>Endurance seems to suit a specific character type &#8211; in your experience how much can be trained into someone both physically and mentally, or are some people simply better suited to this stuff from the get-go?</strong></p>
<p>Deep question. Psychology is my favourite area of the job and the world of endurance covers such a wide range and style of activities you have a total mixed bag of people, all with different drives, personalities and motivations. The one consistent factor is they are not afraid of hard work. They&#8217;ll put in whatever&#8217;s needed to achieve the goal. From that alone, I can normally tell if someone will achieve their goal or not.</p>
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								<a title="A big day in the mountains with adventure photographer Alex Buisse." href="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Alex-Buisse-1024x768.jpeg" class="block group
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								<p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">A big day in the mountains with adventure photographer Alex Buisse.</p>
						
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								<p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">Jon climbing Aconcagua in Argentina.</p>
						
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><strong>For someone wanting to step into endurance for the first time, the sheer time involved is likely to be a barrier to some extent. Do you have any tips for squeezing endurance training around a full-time job or a family?</strong></p>
<div></div>
<div>
<p>Pick your goal early and start training with lots of time pre-event or adventure. That way, you won&#8217;t have to go crazy with massive training sessions. Small, consistent and at the correct intensity will get you there. I&#8217;ve said it a few times already but consistency really is key. Our bodies are so clever, they learn patterns of stress and will adapt and improve, so doing daily short, correct efforts will teach that.</p>
<p>Be prepared for training to feel slow at first but you&#8217;ll soon see the gains. The weekend warrior approach is not progressive. Fit in short sessions each day and make them specific to your goals.</p>
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<div></div>
<p><strong>What does the year ahead look like for you?</strong></p>
<div>For me personally, I have a training trip to Norway in April with my fellow Greenland crossing team. I&#8217;m planning to ski off the summit of a few more 4,000m peaks here in the Alps. I&#8217;ll be supporting a Swedish athlete in compete in<a href="https://www.ultratri.se/" target="_blank" rel="noopener"> Ultra-Tri-Sweden,</a> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/frikfrak74/?hl=en">Naomi Freireich</a> in riding across the Gobi desert and<a href="https://www.theguardian.com/world/2019/jan/12/wendy-searle-anarctica-race-womens-record-south-pole-louis-rudd" target="_blank" rel="noopener"> Wendy Searle</a> as she heads back to the South Pole to attempt and break the speed record. I&#8217;ll also be supporting <a href="https://www.gofundme.com/f/saras-lejog-challenge" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Sara Crosland as she runs the length of the UK</a> and so many more crazy athletes doing crazy things.</div>
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		<title>The Responsibility of the Trail and Life After Racing</title>
		<link>https://www.base-mag.com/the-responsibility-of-the-trail-and-life-after-racing/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Chris Hunt]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 17 Jan 2022 17:49:52 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Interview]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.base-mag.com/?p=3523</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[In conversation with mountain biker Manon Carpenter]]></description>
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		<p id="breadcrumbs" class="mt-5 text-grey" ><span><span><a href="https://www.base-mag.com/">Home</a></span> <span class="separator inline-block align-baseline mx-1 opacity-50"></span> <span class="breadcrumb_last" aria-current="page">Interview</span></span></p>		<h1 class="dirty-heading text-4xl md:text-h1   text-grey">The Responsibility of the Trail and Life After Racing</h1>
		<div class="text-md md:text-lg text-center mb-4 mx-auto text-grey">In conversation with mountain biker Manon Carpenter</div>		
		
			
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						<span class="text-orange uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1 sm:mb-2">Published</span>
						<span class="block text-grey">Jan 17, 2022</span>
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							<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/hannah-bailey/" class="block text-normal text-grey">Hannah Bailey</a>
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							<span class="text-orange uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1 sm:mb-2">Photographer</span>
							<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/saskia-dugon/" class="block text-normal text-grey">Saskia Dugon</a>
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							<div class="mt-7 sm:flex sm:flex-row items-center justify-center">
					<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/hannah-bailey/" class="h-12 w-12 md:h-20 md:w-20 inline-block bg-grey-light overflow-hidden rounded-full text-center"><img decoding="async" width="300" height="200" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/HannahProfilePic_byRupertShanks-300x200.jpg" class="object-cover object-center h-full w-full wp-post-image" alt="Hannah Bailey" srcset="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/HannahProfilePic_byRupertShanks-300x200.jpg 300w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/HannahProfilePic_byRupertShanks-1024x684.jpg 1024w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/HannahProfilePic_byRupertShanks-768x513.jpg 768w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/HannahProfilePic_byRupertShanks-1536x1026.jpg 1536w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/HannahProfilePic_byRupertShanks-1248x834.jpg 1248w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/HannahProfilePic_byRupertShanks-1800x1203.jpg 1800w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/HannahProfilePic_byRupertShanks-700x468.jpg 700w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/HannahProfilePic_byRupertShanks-250x167.jpg 250w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/HannahProfilePic_byRupertShanks.jpg 1920w" sizes="(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /></a>					<div class="sm:pl-5 mx-auto sm:mx-0 text-center sm:text-left max-w-lg">
						<span class="text-grey uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1">Hannah Bailey</span>
						<span class="block text-sm text-grey">Hannah is an award-winning photographer and journalist who works tirelessly to shine the spotlight on women in action sports. She shows the real faces, telling genuine stories of those involved in the niche culture to inspire others to get involved and society as a whole.</span>					</div>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><span class="s4"><strong>Can you tell us a bit about how you started mountain biking and formed a passion for it?</strong><br />
</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s2">Growing up, I was immersed in bike riding culture. My dad was heavily involved in organising races in South Wales. I tagged along, and was always around the scene as a child. And then I transitioned into riding. When I got older, and could travel around, the mountain bike world was a great place for me, and an exciting scene to be in, full of great people and it was a good challenge. </span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s2">It was a gradual transition into the competitive scene. With my dad being part of the race scene the way he was, I was very lucky &#8211; I went from local races, where I was riding for fun, and just gradually made my way onto the international scene. It was never a huge jump, and all of a sudden I was on the World Cup stage as a Junior! Back then, 10 years ago, there weren’t as many women racing. My first year out of school, I decided to give it a go and race full-time, putting everything into it. That led to me continuing for six years on the World Cup circuit. </span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s4"><strong>As you have progressed, where has your motivation with riding shifted to?</strong><br />
</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s2">Before the end of my racing career, I decided I wanted to go back to university. I’d always thought I would do that but it had been put on the back-burner while I was racing. I had some big injuries and felt like I’d put everything I had into my racing career. So once I started feeling like I was done with the race circuit, it was time to step away. </span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s2">When I stepped away from the race scene I was just riding for fun, riding for me and enjoying bigger adventures, heading out and getting lost for the day. I have played in lots of different areas of mountain biking since then, but really enjoying the adventures I can have on a bike and taking the time to be outside. When you are racing, everything is about going as fast as you can and improving as much as you can, so, for me, over the last few years, it’s been nice to slow down a little and just enjoy.</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s2">Right now, I mix studying for a PHD in Geology part-time with bike riding, which is what I do with my time off. What I am doing in biking is constantly evolving but I like the balance that the mix of study and bikes gives me. They are two completely different perspectives and two completely different worlds. I have also transitioned into the media production-side of mountain biking, managing a few smaller films recently. And this past year I have been delving into a bigger project, looking into how we access spaces on mountain bikes. It is all quite varied! </span></p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><span class="s4"><strong>Where do you call home and your local trail? And what is it like?</strong><br />
</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s2">Caerphilly, just outside Cardiff in South Wales is my home. I travelled a lot during my years racing, but here has always been home for me. I can ride in three different directions from my house and be out in the hills for hours. Most of the trails are in the trees, steep and rooty, with lots of turns, which is a common theme in South Wales- winding through the trees! There are quite a variety, which is surprising because we are on the edge of Cardiff – the capital city of Wales. There really is a lot that can be found.</span></p>
<p><span class="s4"><strong>So how did the film idea come about?</strong><br />
</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s2">I got inspired around this time last year on a bike ride. I was thinking how great it is, getting to explore through riding bikes off-road. Last year, we could go for a ride from the house, do a loop within the local area and just have a great day out. I thought how great it is, but then realised how much of what we ride isn’t official &#8211; or isn’t necessarily allowed &#8211; and also how inaccessible it is for so many people, who wouldn’t know where to start. </span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s2">I got chatting with filmmaker and mountain biker <a href="https://www.instagram.com/tommyawilkinson/?hl=en">Tommy Wilkinson</a></span><span class="s2">, who I knew was interested in similar topics. It’s complex, and has taken a while to develop exactly what we want to show with the film, but we want to look at how we access trails in the UK, the benefits MTB can bring, and speak to people with real experience of managing trails, or land. We want to think about what the future for trails might look like, and how that can be achieved. </span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s2">As riders, a lot of us aren’t really aware of what goes on behind the scenes, either about the riders building the trails, or the people that manage or own the land and are deciding what to do about it. It has been really interesting to learn about all of this, and to bring it together in one coherent project. </span></p>
<p><span class="s4"><strong>Do you feel a responsibility to share these messages and awareness to educate others?</strong><br />
</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s2">Yes, for different reasons. During the past year, there have been real examples of tension between different users, such as walkers and cyclists. It’s important that we raise awareness around what we can do on our side about that; being responsible cyclists and not making a mess, being aware of where we are riding and how we interact with others on the trail. I have benefited so much from the trails in my area and across the UK, so I’d like to create, or add to, some important conversations. I’m sure there will be many different opinions out there, which is why we want to speak with people with real experiences and get a range of views. </span></p>
<p><span class="s4"><strong>Do you think the mountain bike community is going to be welcoming to this topic?</strong><br />
</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s2">It’s a hard one. There are definitely riders who are happy with how things are, and want to continue getting away with whatever we can. But there is also the fact that more and more people are taking up mountain biking, and there are more people discovering the outdoors in general. It will come to a point where something needs to change. So I think many will welcome a discussion. Irrespective of whether there will be a definite conclusion &#8211; or just offered opinions &#8211; it will be interesting!</span></p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><span class="s4"><strong>How did you come to be working with Patagonia?</strong><br />
</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s2">I started speaking to Patagonia last summer, telling the team about my plans and what I wanted to do in the future. I had just finished my undergraduate degree, and we were just chatting about all sorts of topics that we aligned on. I was invited to a Patagonia Virtual Ambassador summit last summer. We mountain bikers joined in as the newbies. It was cool to meet everyone and get involved. It went from there!</span></p>
<p><span class="s4"><strong>What is it about Patagonia’s values that resonates with you?</strong><br />
</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s2">I have always respected Patagonia as a brand &#8211; the way I think any outdoor enthusiast would. It really seems to be a company that cares, and leads the way in talking about, or acting on, social and environmental issues, as well as producing really high quality outdoor gear. </span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s2">I try to make conscious or positive decisions on my impact. It’s not perfect but the intent is there to do better and I think that is very much the same with Patagonia: trying to do better and trying to use its influence where it can.</span></p>
<p><span class="s4"><strong>What do you think it could bring to the MTB scene?</strong><br />
</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s2">I think Patagonia is really excited about coming into the scene and amplifying the climate and environmental discussion. It’s not talked about a lot in mountain biking, but it is definitely creeping in. </span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s2">There is space for a lot more conversation! It will be interesting to see how that goes, and how Patagonia will approach that. </span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s2">There are brands in mountain biking starting to make products much more responsibly, and Patagonia will contribute to that in a big way. It leads the way on doing things better in many sports, but now Patagonia will be coming into a scene as the new kid on the block! I think it will be a positive addition, and there is a lot of knowledge Patagonia can bring from years of experience producing technical equipment for other outdoor pursuits. </span></p>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p><span class="s4"><strong>Do you see the environmental impact of climate change on trails or in your travels?</strong><br />
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<p class="p1"><span class="s2">The biggest impacts that mountain bikers have seen recently are the floods. There have been a good few events cancelled because the trails have been washed away and the local infrastructure destroyed. More frequent, extreme flooding events will be a trend in the future. Last February, we had the wettest month on record, which caused huge erosion for trails and major problems for people living in the worst affected areas. Also, as mountain bikers, we spend a lot of time in the woods in managed plantations, such as a lot of the woodland in South Wales. Larch disease is a big problem here, which we can’t do anything about, except washing our bikes to reduce its spread. It means a lot of forests that have trails have been obliterated through felling, and it’s affecting the whole region. From what I’ve read, larch disease isn’t directly linked to climate change, but it does show the devastating effect plant diseases can have, and changing climate and environmental conditions will impact the plant disease &#8211; in many ways that can’t yet be predicted. </span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s4"><strong>How do you think we can make mountain biking more inclusive for all?</strong><br />
</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s2">I think representation is really important. You can’t be what you can’t see &#8211; or at least seeing others that we can relate to doing something makes it seem more inviting or realistic.  Whether it’s gender, ethnicity, physical ability or class &#8211; or simply your way of life. I think showing that all walks of life are welcome and able to get outdoors and active is really positive. In mountain biking, working towards making representation in mountain biking more representative of the general population would be a strong step in the right direction.</span></p>
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		<title>The Nims Interview</title>
		<link>https://www.base-mag.com/the-nims-purja-14-peaks-interview/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Yellow Peach]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 01 Dec 2021 13:11:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Interview]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.base-mag.com/?p=2241</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[David Pickford catches up with the high altitude mountaineer and star of 14 Peaks / Project Possible]]></description>
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		<p id="breadcrumbs" class="mt-5 text-black" ><span><span><a href="https://www.base-mag.com/">Home</a></span> <span class="separator inline-block align-baseline mx-1 opacity-50"></span> <span class="breadcrumb_last" aria-current="page">Interview</span></span></p>		<h1 class="dirty-heading text-4xl md:text-h1   text-black">The Nims Interview</h1>
		<div class="text-md md:text-lg text-center mb-4 mx-auto text-black">David Pickford catches up with the high altitude mountaineer and star of 14 Peaks / Project Possible</div>		
		
			
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							<span class="block text-black">12 min read</span>
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							<span class="text-orange uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1 sm:mb-2">Author</span>
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					<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/david-pickford/" class="h-12 w-12 md:h-20 md:w-20 inline-block bg-grey-light overflow-hidden rounded-full text-center"><img decoding="async" width="300" height="200" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/MG_5094-300x200.jpg" class="object-cover object-center h-full w-full wp-post-image" alt="" srcset="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/MG_5094-300x200.jpg 300w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/MG_5094-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/MG_5094-768x512.jpg 768w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/MG_5094-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/MG_5094-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/MG_5094-1248x832.jpg 1248w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/MG_5094-1800x1200.jpg 1800w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/MG_5094-700x467.jpg 700w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/MG_5094-250x167.jpg 250w" sizes="(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /></a>					<div class="sm:pl-5 mx-auto sm:mx-0 text-center sm:text-left max-w-lg">
						<span class="text-black uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1">David Pickford</span>
						<span class="block text-sm text-black">Writer, editor, and photographer based in the UK, David is an expert climber and a pioneer of standup paddling as an expedition-distance watersport. He was previously editor-in-chief of Climb magazine and is editor emeritus of BASE magazine. </span>					</div>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p class="" style="text-align: center;"><em>Nirmal ‘Nims’ Purja is one of the world’s most successful contemporary mountaineers. Born in Nepal of Magar descent, Nims grew up in the foothills of the Himalaya. Before beginning his climbing career, he served with the British Armed Forces as a Nepalese Gurkha, and later entered the Special Boat Service (SBS), an elite unit of the Royal Navy. Today, after a decade of climbing in the world’s highest mountains, he holds many records that together have redefined what is possible in high altitude mountaineering. In 2019, in what he called </em><a href="https://www.nimsdai.com/bremont-project-possible"><em>Project Possible</em></a><em>, Nims climbed all of the fourteen eight-thousand metre (26,247 feet) peaks in just over six months; the previous record was just under 8 years. In doing so, he was also the first climber to reach the summits of <a href="https://www.base-mag.com/the-ghosts-above-an-everest-mystery/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Mount Everest</a>, Lhotse and Makalu in under 48 hours. In 2021, with a team of nine other Nepalese mountaineers, </em><a href="https://www.nimsdai.com/k2-winter"><em>Nims successfully completed the first winter ascent of K2</em></a><em>: a sort of ‘Holy Grail’ prize in high altitude climbing, which had seen multiple failed attempts at a winter ascent since the 1970s. In November of the same year, Nims launched his</em><a href="https://www.netflix.com/title/81464765"><em> film 14 Peaks </em></a><em>on Netflix which documented his Project Possible campaign. For issue 06 of BASE (published autumn 2021) David Pickford spoke to Nims about his extraordinary life on the roof of the world, the unique challenges of high altitude climbing, and the big issues facing the Himalaya today.</em></p>
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		<p class="caption-text m-0 p-3">Nirmal ‘Nims’ Purja photographed during his 2021 expedition to climb K2, and the first expedition to ever reach the summit during the winter months. © Sandro Gromen-Hayes / Team Nimsdai</p>
	

	


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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p class=""><strong>Prior to your career as a mountaineer, you served with the British Armed Forces as a Gurkha, and then you entered the Special Boat Service in 2009. What aspects of your experience in the military were useful for you in the mountains?</strong></p>
<p class="">Most of the skills that you learn from the military are transferable. If you look at really successful people in the world it’s the same mindset- you wake up early, you’re super disciplined, you’re precise about the decisions you make and you have to have that positive mindset, determination and character. They are transferrable skills from one career to another – hence, what I learnt in the military was transferable to the mountain setting. The biggest thing that my Special Forces training taught me was to operate in very stressful environments and situations. You always have to make the right decision &#8211; and that’s the same on the mountains. That leadership is what I took from my military career.</p>
<p class=""><strong>What are the similarities between a military exercise and a mountaineering expedition? </strong></p>
<p class="">Planning everything in great detail and anticipating what could go wrong. However, I must highlight that high altitude mountaineering is a completely different game to the military, not everyone who climbs mountains can be in the military and vice versa. You still need different skills to climb big mountains – that’s why most of the mountain guides take six years to finish their guiding course.</p>
<p class=""><strong>In 2012 you climbed Lobuche East (6,119m), which was your first major summit. Did you then realise that mountaineering would become a major part of your life? </strong></p>
<p class="">Yes, although it wasn’t just about summiting Lobuche East. It was when we were trekking up past Namche Bazaar and I saw this gigantic peak – Ama Dablam – the most beautiful and iconic peak of the Himalayas. And from there we started seeing Everest and Lhoste &#8211; and it was such a happy environment for me, I was in my own happy bubble; the whole experience of going up into the Everest region made me want to climb more.</p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><blockquote><p>When I’m in the highest places on Earth, I become the most alive as I’m living only for that moment</p></blockquote>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p class=""><strong>You climbed Dhaulagiri in 2014, your first 8000er, in a very quick time. What are your memories of this expedition? </strong></p>
<p class="">I figured out how strong I was because I pretty much trail blazed about 65-75% of the summit push. So those were the good memories I remember!</p>
<p class=""><strong>After Dhaulagiri, did you realise you were particularly well suited, both physically and mentally, to high altitude climbing?</strong></p>
<p class="">Yes, I realised I could work with massive speed, which is a very big factor in successful high altitude climbing, and mountaineering generally. Obviously being in the Special Forces you had to be very fit but then I also have some special physiological advantages that mean I can operate at high altitude, so it was combination of those factors.</p>
<p class=""><strong>You began Project Possible — to climb all 14 8000ers in one year — in April 2019. Did you expect to complete it successfully when you started? </strong></p>
<p class="">In March 2019 I gave up my military career, my pension and everything. This was a huge risk, but I have always believed that somebody had to do the challenge to show the world that nothing is impossible in terms of high altitude mountaineering. It was very tough because I only had 15% of the funding – no-one really believed it was possible, so the funding which was the main vital part of the project wasn’t there, but I flew to Nepal anyway because I always believed that once I started climbing in the manner I said I would, then people would believe that it was possible.  Yes, it was a huge risk and I had to calculate that for myself and my team, but we managed to make it happen.</p>
<p class=""><strong>You climbed Shishapangma in Tibet in October 2019, successfully completing the final summit of Project Possible. How did it feel when you’d finished the challenge?</strong></p>
<p class="">Of course, I was very happy that the challenge was completed, but as soon as I finished that I was straight into my second mission which was to buy a place in Kathmandu for my parents so they could stay under the same roof. My mum was staying in one room rented in Kathmandu and my dad was in Chitwan, so that was my next mission. It took some time but I was able to buy a house for them in Kathmandu so they could be together.</p>
<p class=""><strong>You broke a number of mountaineering records during those climbs in 2019. What was the hardest part of Project Possible?</strong></p>
<p class="">The hardest part was definitely securing the funding. But in terms of the climbs themselves, that would be on Kangchenjunga where we gave up our oxygen at 8,450m to rescue two climbers. Only the people that understand the physiology of high-altitude mountaineering can only understand how tough it can be up there when things go wrong.</p>
<p class=""><strong>You often climb in the Himalaya without supplementary oxygen, but you did use it on Shishapangma. How do you decide whether or not to use oxygen in the world’s highest mountains?</strong></p>
<p class="">Yes I always used oxygen from higher camps during Project Possible and it’s purely because we were breaking the trails, we were fixing the lines. For those people that don’t understand high altitude mountaineering, if you are trailblazing in waist deep snow and fixing lines with oxygen, that is way harder than if you are following without oxygen on a path that has been trailblazed and has fixed lines. And I can speak for both experiences, because I have done both.</p>
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								<a title="The awesome bulk of K2, seen from near basecamp on the Godwin-Austen glacier. The normal route up the mountain via the Abruzzi Spur is clearly visible on the ridge-line to the right of the summit. © Marek Ogien / Red Bull" href="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/SI201808130253_hires_jpeg_24bit_rgbedit-1024x708.jpg" class="block group
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									<img decoding="async" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/SI201808130253_hires_jpeg_24bit_rgbedit-1024x708.jpg" alt="The awesome bulk of K2, seen from near basecamp on the Godwin-Austen glacier. The normal route up the mountain via the Abruzzi Spur is clearly visible on the ridge-line to the right of the summit. © Marek Ogien / Red Bull" class="w-full h-full object-cover object-center transition-transform duration-300 scale-100 group-hover:scale-105" />
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								<p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">The awesome bulk of K2, seen from near basecamp on the Godwin-Austen glacier. The normal route up the mountain via the Abruzzi Spur is clearly visible on the ridge-line to the right of the summit. © Marek Ogien / Red Bull</p>
						
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									<img decoding="async" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/SI202101160018_hires_jpeg_24bit_rgb-683x1024.jpg" alt="Nims on K2 in January 2021 prior to his successful first winter ascent. © Sandro Gromen-Hayes / Team Nimsdai" class="w-full h-full object-cover object-center transition-transform duration-300 scale-100 group-hover:scale-105" />
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								<p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">Nims on K2 in January 2021 prior to his  successful first  winter ascent. © Sandro Gromen-Hayes / Team Nimsdai</p>
						
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								<a title="Nims holds a flag with the Union Jack and the Nepali flag together on the summit of K2 (8,611m), the world’s second-highest mountain and the most northerly 8000m peak, during the first winter ascent on January 16th 2021. © Team Nimsdai" href="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/3.NimsdaiK2WinterSummit.CreditNimsdai-1024x615.jpg" class="block group
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									<img decoding="async" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/3.NimsdaiK2WinterSummit.CreditNimsdai-1024x615.jpg" alt="Nims holds a flag with the Union Jack and the Nepali flag together on the summit of K2 (8,611m), the world’s second-highest mountain and the most northerly 8000m peak, during the first winter ascent on January 16th 2021. © Team Nimsdai" class="w-full h-full object-cover object-center transition-transform duration-300 scale-100 group-hover:scale-105" />
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								<p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">Nims holds a flag with the Union Jack and the Nepali flag together on the summit of K2 (8,611m), the world’s second-highest mountain and the most northerly 8000m peak, during the first winter ascent on January 16th 2021. © Team Nimsdai</p>
						
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p class=""><strong>In January 2021, you made history by making the first winter ascent of K2 along with nine other Nepali climbers. How did it feel to stand on the summit of K2 at the coldest time of year?</strong></p>
<p class="">It was an incredible feeling, to have all ten of our Nepal team reach that summit at the same time was amazing. This was a team effort, and we are proud to have been part of the history of humankind and mountaineering &#8211; we wanted to show the world that anything is possible with a positive mindset, determination and teamwork.</p>
<p class=""><strong>Climbing K2 in winter is more challenging than climbing the other 8000ers in winter due to the extreme weather and high winds the mountain experiences. I recall that one of your camps was destroyed by a storm during your ascent, in fact. What was the toughest part of K2 in winter? </strong></p>
<p class="">The weather this year was very challenging. We had the situation where the forecasts we were getting just didn’t match what was happening on the ground. As you mention, one of our camps was destroyed by the weather, and in that I lost my paragliding kit. I had planned to speedfly from the top of K2 but that wasn’t to be on that trip sadly.</p>
<p class="">The other toughest challenge was for me as expedition leader – because everyone knew that K2 in winter was the last, the hardest, the most extreme challenge left in 8,000ers, so, of course, every climber over there wanted to make a name for themselves and their country. So for me, the biggest challenge was to plan the whole expedition, whilst dealing with that pressure and expectation and to make sure I gave my team the best chance of being the first team of ten Nepalese climbers to be able to stand at the same summit after an historic ascent in the Himalaya.</p>
<p class=""><strong>You climbed K2 in winter without using oxygen &#8211; the only member of your team to do so. How much harder is it to climb an 8000er without oxygen? </strong></p>
<p class="">With how the world is, there will be people that will always criticise no matter what you do. Before I did Project Possible no one believed that all 14 peaks could be climbed in just over 6 months, then I did it and people started talking about oxygen. Only those people that climb and who ‘walk the walk’ will understand.</p>
<p class=""><strong>For you personally, what are the key aspects of safe practice in the world’s highest mountains?</strong></p>
<p class="">The key aspect of safe practise is being truly honest to yourself. If you push yourself because of ego and you push too hard to climb because other people have done it, and you’re not staying true to your ability then you will be in big trouble. Be honest with yourself and your ability.</p>
<p class=""><strong>There had been multiple attempts to climb K2 in winter since 1987, and all had failed. Was it a special moment to be able to stand on the summit with an all-Nepali team? </strong></p>
<p class="">Of course! The Nepalese team have always been the pioneers of 8,000ers and for me to be able to lead this team and have all ten Nepalese members reach the summit of K2 at the same time was unique. I don’t believe in one man’s glory, I wanted everyone to feel a part of this great achievement, because everyone was working hard at the same time. Also, when we were on K2 it was a very bad situation worldwide with the pandemic, and I wanted to show the world the power of unification – we need to unite to deal with the bigger issues. That was the clear message I wanted to send across.</p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><blockquote><p>I don’t believe in one man’s glory. I wanted everyone to feel a part of the achievement of our winter ascent of K2, because we were all working hard together</p></blockquote>
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								<a title="‘Team Nimsdai’ after the first winter ascent of K2. The group, who all summited the mountain together, consisted of Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, Nirmal Purja, Gelje Sherpa, Mingma David Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, Dawa Temba Sherpa, Pem Chhiri Sherpa, Kilu Pemba Sherpa, Dawa Tenjing Sherpa, and Sona Sherpa. Nims was the only climber in the team who reached the summit without the use of supplementary oxygen. At the summit, the temperature that day was -40ºCelsius, plus windchill. © Sandro Gromen-Hayes / Team Nimsdai" href="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/SI202101160020_hires_jpeg_24bit_rgb-857x1024.jpg" class="block group
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									<img decoding="async" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/SI202101160020_hires_jpeg_24bit_rgb-857x1024.jpg" alt="‘Team Nimsdai’ after the first winter ascent of K2. The group, who all summited the mountain together, consisted of Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, Nirmal Purja, Gelje Sherpa, Mingma David Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, Dawa Temba Sherpa, Pem Chhiri Sherpa, Kilu Pemba Sherpa, Dawa Tenjing Sherpa, and Sona Sherpa. Nims was the only climber in the team who reached the summit without the use of supplementary oxygen. At the summit, the temperature that day was -40ºCelsius, plus windchill. © Sandro Gromen-Hayes / Team Nimsdai" class="w-full h-full object-cover object-center transition-transform duration-300 scale-100 group-hover:scale-105" />
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								<p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">‘Team Nimsdai’ after the first winter ascent of K2. The group, who all summited the mountain together, consisted of Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, Nirmal Purja, Gelje Sherpa, Mingma David Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, Dawa Temba Sherpa, Pem Chhiri Sherpa, Kilu Pemba Sherpa, Dawa Tenjing Sherpa, and Sona Sherpa. Nims was the only climber in the team who reached the summit without the use of supplementary oxygen. At the summit, the temperature that day was -40ºCelsius, plus windchill. © Sandro Gromen-Hayes / Team Nimsdai</p>
						
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								<a title="Climbers approaching Shishaoangma (8,013m), the only 800m+ peak which is entirely inside Tibet. The ascent of this mountain was particularly challenging logistically during ‘Project Possible’ in 2019 when he climbed all 14 8000m+ peaks in just over 6 months. © Marcin Kin / Red Bull" href="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/SI201609210472_hires_jpeg_24bit_rgb-1024x683.jpg" class="block group
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								<p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">Climbers approaching Shishaoangma (8,013m), the only 800m+ peak which is entirely inside Tibet. The ascent of this mountain was particularly challenging logistically during ‘Project Possible’ in 2019 when he climbed all 14 8000m+ peaks in just over 6 months. © Marcin Kin / Red Bull</p>
						
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p class=""><strong>Do you think the current situation of Western companies operating guiding services in the Himalaya supported by Nepali Sherpas will change in the future? Will there be more Sherpa-run companies offering their own mountaineering packages?</strong></p>
<p class="">Yes, even now, we can see it’s slowly changing, and I think in future there will be a good balance between the Sherpa-run companies and our foreign friends. At the moment it’s not balanced I must say that. But eventually there will be a fair balance between the Western European world and Nepal, so that it’s fair &#8211; and it’s clear it’s moving in that direction already.</p>
<p class=""><strong>What’s the best thing about climbing in the world’s highest mountains?</strong></p>
<p class="">The best thing for me about climbing the world’s highest mountains is that I become truly alive up there. When I come down to sea level, it can be a crazy and very selfish world. But in the mountains I find my peace. When I’m in the highest places on Earth, I become most alive as I’m living only in that moment.</p>
<p class=""><strong>What are the biggest challenges at present for the people of Nepal?</strong></p>
<p class="">The biggest challenges we have right now is obviously with the pandemic – and of course, it’s affecting the rest of the world. Hopefully the tourism in Nepal will return soon and we can hopefully get back to normality.</p>
<p class=""><strong>What are the biggest environmental issues facing the Himalaya?</strong></p>
<p class="">Not only across the Himalaya but also across the world, global warming and climate change is the biggest threat. Most of the glaciers are melting and some are disappearing altogether. The bottom line here is that nature will always heal, but as a human race can we survive that? Can we heal? So that’s one thing we all need to bear in mind. I don’t think we will survive if we are not very cautious about it and if we don’t put our hearts into looking after our planet right now. This is the biggest issue in the world today and we have to act on it now!</p>
<p><em>This interview first appeared in issue #06 of BASE. </em><a href="https://www.base-mag.com/subscribe"><em>Subscribe online or in print to read the full issue</em></a><em>.</em></p>
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		<title>Interview: Matilda Söderlund</title>
		<link>https://www.base-mag.com/interview-matilda-soderlund/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Yellow Peach]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 26 Oct 2021 13:26:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Interview]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.base-mag.com/?p=2280</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[A conversation with one of the world’s most accomplished sport climbers.]]></description>
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		<p id="breadcrumbs" class="mt-5 text-black" ><span><span><a href="https://www.base-mag.com/">Home</a></span> <span class="separator inline-block align-baseline mx-1 opacity-50"></span> <span class="breadcrumb_last" aria-current="page">Interview</span></span></p>		<h1 class="dirty-heading text-4xl md:text-h1   text-black">Interview: Matilda Söderlund</h1>
		<div class="text-md md:text-lg text-center mb-4 mx-auto text-black">A conversation with one of the world’s most accomplished sport climbers.</div>		
		
			
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							<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/david-pickford/" class="block text-normal text-black">David Pickford</a>
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					<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/david-pickford/" class="h-12 w-12 md:h-20 md:w-20 inline-block bg-grey-light overflow-hidden rounded-full text-center"><img decoding="async" width="300" height="200" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/MG_5094-300x200.jpg" class="object-cover object-center h-full w-full wp-post-image" alt="" srcset="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/MG_5094-300x200.jpg 300w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/MG_5094-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/MG_5094-768x512.jpg 768w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/MG_5094-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/MG_5094-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/MG_5094-1248x832.jpg 1248w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/MG_5094-1800x1200.jpg 1800w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/MG_5094-700x467.jpg 700w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/MG_5094-250x167.jpg 250w" sizes="(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /></a>					<div class="sm:pl-5 mx-auto sm:mx-0 text-center sm:text-left max-w-lg">
						<span class="text-black uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1">David Pickford</span>
						<span class="block text-sm text-black">Writer, editor, and photographer based in the UK, David is an expert climber and a pioneer of standup paddling as an expedition-distance watersport. He was previously editor-in-chief of Climb magazine and is editor emeritus of BASE magazine. </span>					</div>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p class="" style="text-align: center;"><em>Matilda Söderlund is one of the world’s most accomplished sport climbers. With her 2019 ascent of The Elder Statesman in Germany’s Frankenjura, she became one of the few women in history to have achieved the French 9a grade, which marks the entry point into international-level sport climbing. She’s bouldered to an extremely high standard, being one of only a handful of women to have climbed V13. She has also climbed 8b+ sport routes onsight, with no prior knowledge &#8211; an equally impressive feat. Beyond these achievements and the world-class training regime that underpins them, there’s a fiercely intelligent and quietly determined human being, focused not just on her progress as an athlete but also on using her profile as an adventure sportswoman to promote the benefits of the outdoor lifestyle to a wider audience. David Pickford recently spoke to Matilda at home in Stockholm about her life in the vertical, about what climbing has taught her about herself and the world, and how she sees her career evolving in the future.</em></p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p class=""><strong>Do you remember your first encounter with climbing?</strong></p>
<p class="">I remember it well…[laughs] it was at a friend’s birthday party in the local climbing gym in Stockholm, where I grew up. I was eleven, and the first time I stepped on the wall something just clicked; I really enjoyed the feeling of moving around in the vertical environment.</p>
<p class=""><strong>Even though you started climbing on plastic, you’ve excelled in outdoor sport climbing and bouldering. How did you make the transition? </strong></p>
<p class="">Okay, so real rock climbing came much later. My first few years of climbing were almost exclusively indoors, and I began competing in the Swedish youth championships in my early teens. I was quite competitive as a child and really enjoyed the indoor competitions. I didn’t get outdoor climbing at first &#8211; it seemed scary and cold [laughs] &#8211; abs the he first couple of times I tried actual rock climbing I didn’t enjoy it that much, strangely enough. The style of the granite climbing we have in Sweden is really hard, very technical, and perhaps not the best way to introduce someone to the sport. When I graduated from high school I spent a month in sport climbing in Spain, and that was the first time I really enjoyed climbing on rock.</p>
<p class=""><strong>For a sport climber, climbing your first 8a is always a bit of a watershed moment. What do you remember of yours? </strong></p>
<p class="">Yes, so I was just fourteen, and went with my dad to try this 8a called<em> I Have A Dream</em> on one of the local crags near Stockholm. We put the draws in, then I managed to send it on my first try, which was great. Even though it’s possibly been downgraded now, the memory of climbing it has certainly stayed with me.</p>
<p class=""><strong>What’s the best thing about living in Sweden as a climber?</strong></p>
<p class="">Well, when it comes to training and indoors climbing facilities, Stockholm is a pretty amazing city. But if you want to climb outdoors, Stockholm isn’t the best place to live. But I like having Stockholm as my base, when I come back from a trip I have my family and friends here. I’ve chosen to live in Stockholm more for personal reasons than for climbing.</p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><blockquote><p>Climbing Pure Imagination showed me a great deal about why I climb. The process of climbing is much more important to me than achieving a specific route or project</p></blockquote>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p class=""><strong>You climbed<em> Pure Imagination</em>, an 8c+ sport route, in Red River Gorge in the USA in 2018. Was that a big moment? </strong></p>
<p class="">Yeah, so it was really quite a journey to send that route! I made a goal to climb my first 8c+ before the end of 2018, and we were going to spend a whole month in Red River Gorge. This route is a really fantastic climb, with hard moves between some quite good rests. But redpointing this was one of the few times I’ve really messed up a project. I was passing the crux within the first few days of trying it, but I made some mistakes with my sequences and didn’t make any progress. Then it got really cold, and it was impossible to seriously try it. But finally, magically the weather slowly improved, and on the very last day of the trip I managed to send it on my first try of the day.</p>
<p class=""><strong>What did the whole process of redpointing <em>Pure Imagination </em>teach you? </strong></p>
<p class="">I think it showed me a great deal about why I climb actually; about the reasons I enjoy being on the wall, exploring my own limits and what I’m capable of. The process of climbing is much more important than achieving a specific route or project, and I definitely learnt a lot about that in Red Rover Gorge.</p>
<p class=""><strong>In 2019, you became one of a very few women in the world to climb a 9a sport route with your ascent of <em>The Elder Statesman</em> in the Frankenjura [Germany]. It’s a super technical and sustained face climb in the notorious fingers style of the climbing in the Frankenjura region. What led to your success on this route? </strong></p>
<p class="">I spent a lot of time in the Frankenjura in 2019, and felt I was making really good progress in my climbing. I knew I might be capable of climbing a 9a, particularly in the Frankenjura as the style there really suits me. When we arrived, it had been raining for almost a month and almost everything was wet, but <em>The Elder Statesman </em>was one of the few things that was dry as it’s on a free standing pillar &#8211; so doesn’t suffer from any seepage. It’s a super beautiful route, with really interesting moves, and there’s nowhere you can really rest as soon as you step on the wall.</p>
<p class="">I made good progress on it and quickly did the easier 8c+ version, without the hard boulder problem start… this meant I developed good fitness for it, and finally linked the whole thing.</p>
<p class="">I<strong>s trad climbing and big wall climbing something you’d like to progress into in the future? </strong></p>
<p class="">Yes, definitely. My long term ambition with climbing is to eventually master all the disciplines. At the moment, I’m focused on mastering sport climbing and bouldering and becoming the best climber I can be in these two disciplines. This summer, I’m planning my first multipitch projects, which is an avenue I’m really excited about exploring.</p>
<p class=""><strong>Isn’t it interesting how when you try a different form of climbing, such as going from sport climbing to trad, it can almost seem like you’re doing a different sport? Mountaineering is certainly very different to bouldering for example.</strong></p>
<p class="">Absolutely it is! It’s cool to feel like a complete beginner again. I was struggling on some relatively easy crack climbs in Sweden last summer. It’s a totally new game learning to place your own gear, too. You learn and grow a lot by trying these other forms of climbing.</p>
<p class=""><strong>You’re one of the few women in the world to have climbed a V13 boulder [<em>Armstrong Assis</em> in Nockeby, Sweden]. What did it take to get this done?</strong></p>
<p class="">The boulder is close to Stockholm, and you can take the tram from the city centre to get to it. Doing this boulder problem was partly an affect of the pandemic, as in April 2020 all my planned trips got cancelled and I was in Stockholm. And I was thinking well, what should I do now? Everyone was climbing outdoors locally. I’d done very little bouldering outdoors before trying this problem &#8211; I don’t think I could go and do any V13! This particular boulder is very much my style, with tiny holds and slightly overhanging. Everything was cancelled and the world was upside down, so my friend and I kept going back to this problem. I finally I did it, after spending pretty much the whole of April 2020 trying it. I’d never had a bouldering project before, and I became quite obsessive about it. Everything makes a difference with hard bouldering, the conditions are super important, even the type of chalk you use. I fell off the last move quite a few times, and you’re not really supposed to fall there. After multiple attempts, I went back to it with some friends after about a week off due to an elbow injury, then managed to do it. Sometimes a short break like that can be good for completing a project.</p>
<p class=""><strong>Ben Moon [pioneering British climber] said that sport climbing is more satisfying than bouldering because it requires more commitment. Could you ever see yourself getting into bouldering as much as you’re into sport climbing? </strong></p>
<p class="">For me, I think I’ll always enjoy the process of sport climbing a lot more. You put a lot of time and energy into a route, and it feels like more of a journey. There’s a lot more strategy involved in sport climbing too, as you have maybe two or maximum three goes at the project in a day. The simple fact of getting higher above the ground makes a difference, and when you get to the top it feels like you’ve reached somewhere. You spend more time of the wall when you’re sport climbing, so you have more time to think about where you are and what you’re doing.</p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p class=""><strong>In a 2020 interview with <em>Gripped </em>you said you really want to do something that matters and use climbing as a tool to make an impact. Can you explain this ambition a bit more?</strong></p>
<p class="">Well, I’ve thought a lot about climbing as a profession. I studied economics and finance in Stockholm, and seriously thought about a career in finance after I graduated. I did lots of internships, but it was terrible! Probably the worst time of my life. And then I figured that I have this gift for climbing, and a passion for it, it’s something that comes very naturally to me. And I thought if I have the chance to follow my passion and what makes me happy that I should take that chance. If I’ve been given this gift for climbing, then I should do something useful with it. I feel that climbing could be my tool to affect other people in a positive way, in a way that’s bigger than just climbing.</p>
<p class="">I’d like to be able to inspire young people to live differently to the stereotypical lifestyle they’re often presented with, and to inspire women and girls in particular so that they can succeed in adventure sports, which have been traditionally a very male-dominated space.</p>
<p class=""><strong>Can an activity like climbing &#8211; or any adventure sport &#8211;  make a difference to the world?</strong></p>
<p class="">I’d like to think so. I think climbing as an activity helps a lot of people, it’s a form of meditation in some ways. It can also help with problems in everyday life. You enter this bubble in climbing where you don’t focus on anything else, you also spend a lot of time outside and in nature, which can be hugely beneficial. Climbing has the potential to open a lot of doors. There’s a lot of stuff you learn in climbing that you can apply to other areas in life. It’s very rewarding to try something that feels almost impossible at first, then get to the point where you can actually do it. This process can happen at any level &#8211; the reward and the satisfaction can be same on a 6a as on a 9a. From a personal perspective, climbing has helped me a lot. I think it really builds your confidence and self-esteem. You have to step outside of your comfort zone, which forces you to see what you’re capable of.</p>
<p class=""><strong>You’ve got 81k Instagram followers,</strong> <strong>is maintaining your social media presence time consuming?</strong></p>
<p class="">Not really, I post every day but only once usually, about the climbing or training I’ve been doing, so it doesn’t take up too much time. I try to promote the benefits of climbing and generally living a healthy, outdoor life. The connectivity of social media can be problem, though &#8211; it’s a double-edged sword. And there’s a big difference between the way men and women are represented through social media, too. Imagine growing up with social media though! The negative aspects for kids in particular are so obvious.</p>
<p class=""><strong>Athletic training is a major part of life for a professional sport climber in the 2020s. What does your schedule normally look like when you’re not on a trip? </strong></p>
<p class="">The winter of 2020-21 has been the longest consistent period of training I’ve ever done, it’s also been my most productive training cycle ever. I’ve been training six days per week, I’ve been trying to work on my power and also my endurance. I feel I’m in my best shape ever, so I’m really looking forward to putting it into action on the rock this summer.</p>
<p class=""><strong>There’s a certain culture in Scandinavian climbing of not telling others about your own achievements, which is possibly linked to the whole <em>Jantelagen</em> tradition in Scandinavia? Does this culture make life a professional climber difficult at times?</strong></p>
<p class="">The culture does exist to some extent in Scandinavia. In the U.S. it’s the complete opposite, of course! It’s not that apparent in Stockholm, but in the rural areas, in the north of Sweden and Norway, it does still exist. I’ve never found it to be an issue for my own climbing life though.</p>
<p class=""><strong>What useful advice would you give to someone who’s just starting out on their journey in climbing?</strong></p>
<p class="">I’d say the most important things are to climb as much as possible. Don’t care about grades or sending things, just try to climb as many moves and as many metres as you can. And also, even more importantly, try to have fun.</p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><blockquote><p>If I’ve been given this gift for climbing, then I feel I should do something useful with it. Climbing could be my tool to affect other people in a way that’s bigger than just climbing itself</p></blockquote>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p class=""><strong>Climbing is part of the Tokyo Olympics this summer, the first time climbing has been an Olympic sport. What effects and benefits do you think this is going to have on the sport as a whole?</strong></p>
<p class="">I think more people will discover climbing through the Olympic presence. We need more diversity in climbing, so this could be a good thing. If you look at the natural ways of moving that have become mainstream sports &#8211; running or swimming for example &#8211; climbing is also a natural form of movement. Climbing has come from this kind of counter-cultural movement, where it was a niche, rule-free sport, so it will be interesting to see how it continues its transition into a more mainstream sport. Back in the day, you came into climbing through the community of climbers you knew, but now the community is so big it’s perhaps harder in a sense for some people to get into climbing, despite the fact there are more people climbing.</p>
<p class=""><strong>What plans do have for your next big international trip?</strong></p>
<p class="">I’m planning to go back to the Frankenjura to work on a few other projects, and I also plan to work on my first multipitch project in Switzerland this summer, which I’m really excited about.</p>
<p class=""><strong>Which figure(s) from climbing history would you most like to climb with, and why?</strong></p>
<p class="">I’d really like to climb with Lynn Hill, as she was so influential and possibly the most important female climber in history. It would also have been amazing to climb with Wolfgang Güllich, who was an incredible pioneer of sport climbing back in the 1980s and 1990s.</p>
<p class=""><strong>Sending the hardest routes and boulder problems in the world is a time-limited activity. What do you see yourself doing in 10 or 20 years time?</strong></p>
<p class="">My vision is to master all the disciplines in climbing, and to do more adventurous stuff whilst pushing my limits. I’d also really like to develop my own business or brand in the climbing space, which would use my knowledge of finance and business and combine it with my passion for climbing. There are very few major climbing brands founded by women.</p>
<p class=""><strong>What’s the best thing about living the life of a pro climber? </strong></p>
<p class="">The fact that I get to do what I love for work is quite special. And having the freedom to control my own schedule is also very valuable. But most of all, climbing is a way I can explore my mental and physical limits. To be able to do this in these amazing wild places, and with some of my closest friends, is an experience that nothing else can beat.</p>
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		<title>Interview: The Alpinist</title>
		<link>https://www.base-mag.com/the-alpinist-interview/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Yellow Peach]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 06 Oct 2021 11:48:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Interview]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.base-mag.com/?p=2303</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Mark Bullock interviews Peter Mortimer and Nick Rosen of Sender Films / Reel Rock.]]></description>
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		<p id="breadcrumbs" class="mt-5 text-black" ><span><span><a href="https://www.base-mag.com/">Home</a></span> <span class="separator inline-block align-baseline mx-1 opacity-50"></span> <span class="breadcrumb_last" aria-current="page">Interview</span></span></p>		<h1 class="dirty-heading text-4xl md:text-h1   text-black">Interview: The Alpinist</h1>
		<div class="text-md md:text-lg text-center mb-4 mx-auto text-black">Mark Bullock interviews Peter Mortimer and Nick Rosen of Sender Films / Reel Rock.</div>		
		
			
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							<span class="block text-black">14 min read</span>
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							<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/mark-bullock/" class="block text-normal text-black">Mark Bullock</a>
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					<a href="https://www.base-mag.com/editor/mark-bullock/" class="h-12 w-12 md:h-20 md:w-20 inline-block bg-grey-light overflow-hidden rounded-full text-center"><img decoding="async" width="300" height="201" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/Mark-B-collective-300x201.jpg" class="object-cover object-center h-full w-full wp-post-image" alt="" srcset="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/Mark-B-collective-300x201.jpg 300w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/Mark-B-collective-1024x685.jpg 1024w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/Mark-B-collective-768x514.jpg 768w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/Mark-B-collective-700x468.jpg 700w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/Mark-B-collective-250x167.jpg 250w, https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/Mark-B-collective.jpg 1066w" sizes="(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /></a>					<div class="sm:pl-5 mx-auto sm:mx-0 text-center sm:text-left max-w-lg">
						<span class="text-black uppercase font-medium tracking-wider text-sm block mb-1">Mark Bullock</span>
						<span class="block text-sm text-black">Mark is a passionate climber, whose dream days are spent soloing easy routes in the big hills, dashing down at last light for pizza. He&#8217;s a writer, qualified Mountain Leader &#038; Climbing Instructor, and has even won a few photography awards.</span>					</div>
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												<div class="text-grey-dark"><p class="" style="text-align: center;"><em>As the sport of climbing turns from a niche pursuit to mainstream media event, Marc-André Leclerc climbs alone, far from the limelight. On remote alpine faces, the free-spirited 23-year-old makes some of the boldest solo ascents in history. Yet, he draws scant attention. With no cameras, no rope, and no margin for error, Marc-André’s approach is the essence of solo adventure. Intrigued by these quiet accomplishments, veteran filmmaker Peter Mortimer (of The Dawn Wall) sets out to make a film about Marc-André. But the Canadian soloist is an elusive subject: nomadic and publicity shy, he doesn’t own a phone or car, and is reluctant to let the film crew in on his pure vision of climbing. As Peter struggles to keep up, Marc-André’s climbs grow bigger and more daring. Elite climbers are amazed by his accomplishments, while others worry that he is risking too much. Then, Marc-André embarks on a historic adventure in Patagonia that will redefine what is possible in solo climbing. </em></p>
<p class="" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.thealpinistfilm.com/?gclid=CjwKCAjwtfqKBhBoEiwAZuesiGVCfmxqJdAIRehj-sUpnhb0AjKEzBE373R3HuHpO15d7I8wjtCZ8BoCnRQQAvD_BwE" target=""><em>The Alpinist</em></a><em> is an intimate documentary of the visionary climber who follows the path of his own passion, despite the heaviest of possible consequences. Peter Mortimer with his co-Director Nick Rosen talk to BASE about making this unique film, and what Marc-André’s legacy will be.</em></p>
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		<p class="caption-text m-0 p-3">Nirmal ‘Nims’ Purja photographed during his 2021 expedition to climb K2, and the first expedition to ever reach the summit during the winter months. © Sandro Gromen-Hayes / Team Nimsdai</p>
	

	


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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p class=""><strong>Hi guys, I’ve just finished watching The Alpinist and I think it’s the climbing film of the year by a country mile. The footage is literally jaw-dropping and it’s an achingly beautiful character portrait of Marc-André. Climbing on the big screen is rare and mainstream audiences might use Free Solo as a bit of a parallel for the film, like a reference point. But The Alpinist is such a unique story, about a unique individual, it makes me wonder if you draw inspiration from outside the outdoor industry at all and maybe mainstream directors, films or books? </strong></p>
<p class=""><strong>Pete: </strong>Yeah. I mean, we definitely do in the sense that most of what we watch is outside of the outdoor genre, we watch a ton of stuff from the climbing and adventure and outdoors world because we&#8217;re just constantly looking for films for the Reel Rock tour. And we go to a lot of the festivals, but we are big film aficionados. And so I think a lot of the stuff that inspires us comes from beyond the outdoors world.</p>
<p class=""><strong>Nick:</strong> I think of things like Werner Herzog&#8217;s film Grizzly Man, I mean, a really different character, but someone drawn to the wilds for really personal reasons. Trying to unpack those, that was a big inspiration for me. And yeah, I mean, when you&#8217;re ‘in’ a film and you&#8217;re kind of trying to crack the nut and figure it out &#8211; I&#8217;ve kind of found that we&#8217;re not referencing things anymore. You&#8217;re just so deep in the story and your own footage and the character that you&#8217;re just building what you create, your own universe and then you&#8217;re building within that universe.</p>
<p class=""><strong>Pete:</strong> Some people kind of assumed that this is like an answer to Free Solo or something? Not realising that we made this film pretty much before Free Solo had come out. So that wasn&#8217;t really an influence.</p>
<p class=""><strong>A quick question on logistics: I particularly like the top down footage on the Stanley Headwall. I was actually holding my breath. It’s stunning. That&#8217;s way harder to get [those shots] than rapping in from the top of El Cap, right? </strong></p>
<p class=""><strong>Nick:</strong> That is. Yes. So that&#8217;s Jonathan Griffith. He was the cameraman who was up on the wall. He&#8217;s British and lives in Germany.</p>
<p class=""><strong>He worked with Ueli Steck, didn&#8217;t he?</strong></p>
<p class=""><strong>Pete:</strong> He did, that’s right. It is harder, I mean, the scale of El Cap is still much bigger than the Stanley Headwall. But the objective hazards and the moving around in that terrain and I mean, that&#8217;s a pretty complex feat. Snow, ice and rock. You know, those guys had to climb another big multi-pitch ice-route and rig everything up and get up there and be in position before Marc-André could climb underneath them.</p>
<p class=""><strong>And then stay <em>really</em> still?</strong></p>
<p class=""><strong>Pete:</strong> And then stay really still! Yeah.</p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><blockquote><p>He&#8217;s a free spirit, but you don&#8217;t approach these things with a wild man&#8217;s attitude</p></blockquote>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p class=""><strong>Can I ask a bit about Marc-André’s character? So there&#8217;s a juxtaposition in that he seems so singular and unique. There&#8217;s a dichotomy between how humble and quiet he can seem, but it&#8217;s allied to quite powerful words and deeds; and that paradox seems to translate <em>directly</em> into his climbing: He&#8217;s undertaking these outrageous endeavours, but they seem borne of a desire for serenity and solitude. So what were your personal takeaways from getting to know him in person, especially with regard to that sort of polarity?</strong></p>
<p class=""><strong>Nick:</strong> I think that I couldn&#8217;t have said that better!</p>
<p class=""><strong>Pete: </strong>Can we, er, just pretend that one of us said that? Yeah?</p>
<p class=""><strong>But what did it mean to you on a personal level? To know someone like that with these extreme opposites? Like a conflict. Did it lead to them being a high achiever or was it ultimately costly? </strong></p>
<p class=""><strong>Pete:</strong> Both sides, are crucial to the film we made. On the one hand, you know, we were really drawn to the kind of humility and reticence that Marc naturally has. He&#8217;s a shy guy. He&#8217;s socially awkward, as Brett says in the film.</p>
<p class=""><strong>Nick:</strong> But then when you start to sit down with him and talk to him about this stuff, it becomes obvious that he&#8217;s really quite eloquent and a deep thinker. Then at the same time, these climbs that he&#8217;s doing &#8211; as you know, he cannot be entirely humble to put those out there. He&#8217;s a free spirit, but you don&#8217;t approach these things with a wild man&#8217;s attitude. He&#8217;s incredibly calculated, incredibly in touch with all of the data and extraneous factors in the big mountains.</p>
<p class=""><strong>Pete:</strong> You know, while Marc wasn&#8217;t so keen, it was such fun to draw the contrast between him and Alex Honnold. The fun competitiveness that Alex had with him on the Grand Wall speed record, for instance. And you know, Alex loves speed records. He loves to burn people off, he’s self avowedly competitive in that way, and it&#8217;s fun. But Marc is really different. As Alex says in the film, more of a spiritual guy, like Marc was ambitious and I think had a sense of almost historical competitiveness.</p>
<p class=""><strong>Nick:</strong> He is up there kind of comparing his climbs with Hermann Buhl or Reinhold Messner. And so it&#8217;s not to underplay that he didn&#8217;t have a kind of ambitious approach, because he did.</p>
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								<p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">The awesome bulk of K2, seen from near basecamp on the Godwin-Austen glacier. The normal route up the mountain via the Abruzzi Spur is clearly visible on the ridge-line to the right of the summit. © Marek Ogien / Red Bull</p>
						
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									<img decoding="async" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/SI202101160018_hires_jpeg_24bit_rgb-683x1024.jpg" alt="Nims on K2 in January 2021 prior to his successful first winter ascent. © Sandro Gromen-Hayes / Team Nimsdai" class="w-full h-full object-cover object-center transition-transform duration-300 scale-100 group-hover:scale-105" />
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								<p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">Nims on K2 in January 2021 prior to his  successful first  winter ascent. © Sandro Gromen-Hayes / Team Nimsdai</p>
						
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								<a title="Nims holds a flag with the Union Jack and the Nepali flag together on the summit of K2 (8,611m), the world’s second-highest mountain and the most northerly 8000m peak, during the first winter ascent on January 16th 2021. © Team Nimsdai" href="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/3.NimsdaiK2WinterSummit.CreditNimsdai-1024x615.jpg" class="block group
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								<p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">Nims holds a flag with the Union Jack and the Nepali flag together on the summit of K2 (8,611m), the world’s second-highest mountain and the most northerly 8000m peak, during the first winter ascent on January 16th 2021. © Team Nimsdai</p>
						
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p class=""><strong>Alex Honnold talked about his performance background from gyms and understanding the numbers and grades and training. But it’s never really mentioned that Marc André must train? He&#8217;s obviously put in his 10,000 hours at some stage too?</strong></p>
<p class=""><strong>Nick:</strong> Yeah, but different in that he was not in a gym, you know, doing fingerboard workouts and pull ups. He&#8217;s just going out there actually practicing the activity <em>so much </em>that it became honed.</p>
<p class=""><strong>Pete:</strong> That was kind of terrifying to think about: just how much time he spent out there in the mountains. And I mean, he had so, so much… just so much time in the mountains. He was just climbing every weather window. And he grew up that way. So even before he became a Master, he was just out all the time on these adventures, like on the weekend, just &#8211; <em>‘Bye Mom! Be back Sunday night!’</em> and that’s what made him so comfortable out there.</p>
<p class="">But the flip side of that, in the mountains you know that there&#8217;s constantly objective hazards, which means that you can&#8217;t be out there with zero objective hazards. There&#8217;s always 10 percent or 15 percent danger. And you know, in the end, that is what got Marc. Just, an accumulation of low percentages. Small, localised avalanches, those things are happening all the time, the mountains are alive, as Marc says. It&#8217;s the catch. It&#8217;s one of the paradoxes of Alpine climbing that the only way you can get to know the mountains and get as comfortable as he was, is to be out there all the time. But the more you&#8217;re out there, the more you&#8217;re just adding up the percentages against you. The things out of your control every time you&#8217;re out there.</p>
<p class=""><strong>This is another tragic irony for him as well, right? Everything he&#8217;s done over those years rope free, building up to soloing Torre Egger, and then he&#8217;s had a fatal accident when he’s roped up with someone&#8230; </strong></p>
<p class=""><strong>Nick:</strong> Yeah. We&#8217;re pretty sure he died on a rope rappelling. That he was on the end of that rope and is buried. And maybe it is 200 feet from where they left their skis to do the climb, you know?</p>
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								<a title="‘Team Nimsdai’ after the first winter ascent of K2. The group, who all summited the mountain together, consisted of Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, Nirmal Purja, Gelje Sherpa, Mingma David Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, Dawa Temba Sherpa, Pem Chhiri Sherpa, Kilu Pemba Sherpa, Dawa Tenjing Sherpa, and Sona Sherpa. Nims was the only climber in the team who reached the summit without the use of supplementary oxygen. At the summit, the temperature that day was -40ºCelsius, plus windchill. © Sandro Gromen-Hayes / Team Nimsdai" href="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/SI202101160020_hires_jpeg_24bit_rgb-857x1024.jpg" class="block group
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									<img decoding="async" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/SI202101160020_hires_jpeg_24bit_rgb-857x1024.jpg" alt="‘Team Nimsdai’ after the first winter ascent of K2. The group, who all summited the mountain together, consisted of Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, Nirmal Purja, Gelje Sherpa, Mingma David Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, Dawa Temba Sherpa, Pem Chhiri Sherpa, Kilu Pemba Sherpa, Dawa Tenjing Sherpa, and Sona Sherpa. Nims was the only climber in the team who reached the summit without the use of supplementary oxygen. At the summit, the temperature that day was -40ºCelsius, plus windchill. © Sandro Gromen-Hayes / Team Nimsdai" class="w-full h-full object-cover object-center transition-transform duration-300 scale-100 group-hover:scale-105" />
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								<p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">‘Team Nimsdai’ after the first winter ascent of K2. The group, who all summited the mountain together, consisted of Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, Nirmal Purja, Gelje Sherpa, Mingma David Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, Dawa Temba Sherpa, Pem Chhiri Sherpa, Kilu Pemba Sherpa, Dawa Tenjing Sherpa, and Sona Sherpa. Nims was the only climber in the team who reached the summit without the use of supplementary oxygen. At the summit, the temperature that day was -40ºCelsius, plus windchill. © Sandro Gromen-Hayes / Team Nimsdai</p>
						
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								<a title="Climbers approaching Shishaoangma (8,013m), the only 800m+ peak which is entirely inside Tibet. The ascent of this mountain was particularly challenging logistically during ‘Project Possible’ in 2019 when he climbed all 14 8000m+ peaks in just over 6 months. © Marcin Kin / Red Bull" href="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/SI201609210472_hires_jpeg_24bit_rgb-1024x683.jpg" class="block group
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									<img decoding="async" src="https://www.base-mag.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/SI201609210472_hires_jpeg_24bit_rgb-1024x683.jpg" alt="Climbers approaching Shishaoangma (8,013m), the only 800m+ peak which is entirely inside Tibet. The ascent of this mountain was particularly challenging logistically during ‘Project Possible’ in 2019 when he climbed all 14 8000m+ peaks in just over 6 months. © Marcin Kin / Red Bull" class="w-full h-full object-cover object-center transition-transform duration-300 scale-100 group-hover:scale-105" />
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								<p class="caption-text m-0 pt-3">Climbers approaching Shishaoangma (8,013m), the only 800m+ peak which is entirely inside Tibet. The ascent of this mountain was particularly challenging logistically during ‘Project Possible’ in 2019 when he climbed all 14 8000m+ peaks in just over 6 months. © Marcin Kin / Red Bull</p>
						
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p class=""><strong>I think I first saw the Alpinist teaser in Reel Rock 14, which was a couple of years ago. So I&#8217;ve got a question about style, and I hope this doesn&#8217;t come out the wrong way: That trailer totally stopped me in my tracks, it&#8217;s got almost no soundscape. You can hear the breath, the crampons crunch, and the wind, and it&#8217;s so stunning because of that purity. But then I didn&#8217;t see it again until the 2021 trailer came out. And that&#8217;s overlaid with dramatic music on it, and has heavy, breathless dialogue&#8230;</strong></p>
<p class=""><strong>A distinct style change, but then the film&#8217;s not so much like that second trailer, it’s more true to the original teaser. What happened there?</strong></p>
<p class=""><strong>Nick:</strong> Yeah, I mean, when Universal were our partners in this film, and when you release a film with Universal and NBC, these are heavy hitter distribution companies. You don&#8217;t end up actually making your own trailer at that point. And in this case, we did not. We had a lot of notes and input. I was initially taken aback by the kind of Hollywood sort of style, the blockbuster style. But I quickly realised that those guys really know what they&#8217;re doing, and I think they did a really good job on the trailer, ultimately. You know, I appreciate that those guys are bringing a film language that communicates with mass market audiences. So, you know, kudos.</p>
<p class=""><strong>Pete:</strong> Yeah, I think the trailer does feel <em>big</em>. But it also has some really nice, quiet moments, I think some of that still comes through. And I think you get a hint. I mean, clearly most people watching that trailer have not seen the teaser that we did and that teaser is really unique. You know, putting that on Reel Rock and pulling everything out and doing it so simple and so many people being like, <em>‘Wow!’</em> It informed the way we finished the edit of the film.</p>
<p class="">You know, we really slowed the pace down. We let Marc shine. I mean, not only in the climbing but we let things play out longer and more quietly than in other films we&#8217;ve done. But in the interviews, you know, there&#8217;s a couple of moments where we just let Marc talk. When he&#8217;s talking about being in kindergarten and how much he loved that, and how bad first grade was, or where he&#8217;s talking about taking six hits of acid and stuff. He&#8217;s so unvarnished in the interview. He&#8217;s clearly never been media trained, which is wonderful, and you see him wrestling with his facial expressions and telling his story in an earnest way. And so I think the whole pace of the film &#8211; and I love it &#8211; it came to reflect Marc&#8217;s pace and his rhythm. He&#8217;s a very thoughtful person.</p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><p class=""><strong>Exactly. They&#8217;re strong words, but softly spoken. He&#8217;s got humility, but the actual words that he is saying are really powerful. On that though, I wanted to ask &#8211; did you ever get the ‘serious face’ shot when you’re sitting him down on the stool and asking him?</strong></p>
<p class=""><strong>Pete:</strong> Nick, you were directing that?</p>
<p class=""><strong>Nick:</strong> I was directing that, but it wasn’t me talking. That was a photographer trying to get some professional production stills. I think they exist. I&#8217;ll send it to you if I can find it, that he finally got a mysterious Alpinist expression. That was so indicative of the kind of challenge with Marc, and the draw with that is: You can&#8217;t put him in a box. And yeah, that&#8217;s exciting.</p>
<p class=""><strong>Pete:</strong> He&#8217;s not playing the part. He&#8217;s just doing his thing.</p>
<p class=""><strong>A quick question about you guys: What were your routes into filmmaking? Did either of you go via college and academic study? Or was it more kind of freestyle and ground experience and for wont of a better expression &#8211; winging it? </strong></p>
<p class=""><strong>Pete:</strong> Yeah, I went to grad school for film in Los Angeles, and Nick went to grad school in New York for journalism and international political journalism. So we both came at it with some level of storytelling&#8230; What do you call it? Training? So I guess education. But we were both climbers before that. For me, it was so long ago that it&#8217;s hard to kind of remember where that fits in to how much it influenced me or how much I learned there versus, you, I know we both made great connections and have met really fascinating people who we continue to collaborate with. Even people who work in different facets of the industry that have championed our films.</p>
<p class=""><strong>Nick:</strong> In the end, it&#8217;s funny because it&#8217;s a little bit like the influences when you&#8217;re making a film, you get so deep into these projects that by year two, you can&#8217;t remember what your training was, or who your influences were, what inspired you or who you&#8217;re trying to rip off! Or what cool techniques you learned. That&#8217;s all out the window and you&#8217;re just living there in this universe with these characters and this footage and trying to find the best way to put it together. It&#8217;s a non-linear process. The whole film career is very non-linear!</p>
<p class=""><strong>Is there a question from today that you wish you&#8217;d been asked that no one in your junket has brought up? </strong></p>
<p class=""><strong>Nick:</strong> There’s a question that has been on my mind: So we finished the film a year ago and then we kind of have been working on other projects, right, because during the pandemic, it didn&#8217;t get to screen at festivals. So coming back to it is really fascinating, and watching it again with audiences and really thinking about it. And so the question on my mind is <em>‘what would I have done differently?’</em> because I&#8217;m like a concept film critic! Every film I watch, I&#8217;m critiquing. What would I have done differently there? What did they bring? That&#8217;s all I think about. I was lying in bed last night just thinking about what could I have done differently?</p>
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														<div class="text-grey-dark"><blockquote><p>He&#8217;s clearly never been media trained, which is wonderful, and you see him wrestling with his facial expressions and telling his story in an earnest way</p></blockquote>
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